Use a large bladed screwdriver and gently lever it out. It's not the usual brittle plastic that's used all over the car. It may help slightly if you push down in the centre of the cover while working the screwdriver blade around the edge.
If you have strong finger nails you don't even need a screwdriver
If you're referring to the plastic disc you see when you first lift the seat squab just lever it up with a big flat blade screw driver - it won't break. Mine just lifts up with my fingers...
Measure the voltage across the two thick wires to see if the problem is the pump motor or a lack of supply.
Remember as a safety feature if the engine is not running the pump will NOT be energised except for about 2 seconds the first time you turn the ignition on after a long rest. Repeated attempts to turn the key off and on without the engine starting will not reenergise the pump (until the engine starts) at least on the V6.
Simon
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey 2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver 1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive 1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX 1978 CX 2400 1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
There aren't any other bolts IIRC. There's a screw underneath the end of the chrome trim on each corner piece just in front of the wheel, and the grille has to come off, then the whole lot just pulls off.
I believe there's a T15 at each end under the chrome trim, and 3 x 10mm under the bumper skirt, kind of under the rad, which hold it on. The ones in the wings, which you have to peel the mudshields back for, are also 10mm on the S2 as far as I can remember.
I'm not wholly sure how the S1 is attached, as I only had to remove mine when it was already hanging half off after my missus bent it. It had to be removed in a hurry in the middle of the road, so I used a boot, attached to 16 stone of Northerner..
First pull back the fronts of the wheelarch splash shields (10mm heads and persuasion) and the three bolts across the front lower edge of the bar (also 10mm heads). Now remove the T20 self-tappers with integral washers pointing vertically up into the wing, at the trailing edge of each bumper corner. Note there is a stepped "hook" thingy which requires you to push the bar corner in slightly to release it from where it hooks onto the bottom lip of the wing.
Then you need a 13mm ratcheting spanner (ideally) and ferret around to find the bolt head not far forward of where the T20 came out. There's one on each side and the bolts are inexplicably long.
While you're mucking about, unclip the green plug for the froglight harness, near the horns.
Next up is to pull the bumper firmly forward, keeping it horizontal. No need to remove blinkers, under headlight trims, etc. You're free.
I am sure those inexplicably long bolts are 10mm on the S2, not 13mm as on the S1. There's a T15 screw just under the end of the chrome trim on each end
superloopy wrote:Well ... i've managed the small 10mm bolts on the inner wing, the 20torx screws and the three across the underbody (all sheared) but cant see any under the trim that go into the body. Are you sure theres some under there? And are there any more. Addo ... you mention more 10mm?
When Mike mentioned the torx under the trim, he was referring to the ones Addo mentioned too that screw up into the wings, and you've removed them, so time to wiggle that baby off by pulling gently but firmly directly forward.
It's on two big square pegs.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
Personally I would suggest good (new) drill bits; work up in sizes from 3/32" and take your time to stay centred. When you get near the root diameter of the thread, then either go to a left hand drill bit or a good quality extractor.
superloopy wrote:Yep ... i've got washers too
Anyone know if those stud extractor thingys are any good? I've got 4 broken bolts now
My experience with these extractor things is that unless they are extremely expensive items, they're s**t, and your better off with a set of decent drill bits to drill them almost out then the outer bit usually collapses anyway.
