Xantia in-tank pump

[electronmirror]

Mike,

Use a large bladed screwdriver and gently lever it out. It's not the usual brittle plastic that's used all over the car. It may help slightly if you push down in the centre of the cover while working the screwdriver blade around the edge.

If you have strong finger nails you don't even need a screwdriver

[RichardW]

When I had to get at mine in the works carpark, all I had was a spade

[electronmirror]

Keep calm and dig for victory

[CitroJim]

I've heard of a tool being made out of plywood or MDF to fit the ring and undo it.

Why are you looking at pumps Mike?

[Mandrake]

Which car Mike ?

If you're referring to the plastic disc you see when you first lift the seat squab just lever it up with a big flat blade screw driver - it won't break. Mine just lifts up with my fingers...

Measure the voltage across the two thick wires to see if the problem is the pump motor or a lack of supply.

Remember as a safety feature if the engine is not running the pump will NOT be energised except for about 2 seconds the first time you turn the ignition on after a long rest. Repeated attempts to turn the key off and on without the engine starting will not reenergise the pump (until the engine starts) at least on the V6.

[Northern_Mike]

There aren't any other bolts IIRC. There's a screw underneath the end of the chrome trim on each corner piece just in front of the wheel, and the grille has to come off, then the whole lot just pulls off.

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[Northern_Mike]

The grille? Isnt that integral to bonnet ... it's an S2 dont forget.

Ah yes, it is on the S2, I was thinking S1..

[Northern_Mike]

I believe there's a T15 at each end under the chrome trim, and 3 x 10mm under the bumper skirt, kind of under the rad, which hold it on. The ones in the wings, which you have to peel the mudshields back for, are also 10mm on the S2 as far as I can remember.

I'm not wholly sure how the S1 is attached, as I only had to remove mine when it was already hanging half off after my missus bent it. It had to be removed in a hurry in the middle of the road, so I used a boot, attached to 16 stone of Northerner..

[addo]

First pull back the fronts of the wheelarch splash shields (10mm heads and persuasion) and the three bolts across the front lower edge of the bar (also 10mm heads). Now remove the T20 self-tappers with integral washers pointing vertically up into the wing, at the trailing edge of each bumper corner. Note there is a stepped "hook" thingy which requires you to push the bar corner in slightly to release it from where it hooks onto the bottom lip of the wing.

Then you need a 13mm ratcheting spanner (ideally) and ferret around to find the bolt head not far forward of where the T20 came out. There's one on each side and the bolts are inexplicably long.

While you're mucking about, unclip the green plug for the froglight harness, near the horns.

Next up is to pull the bumper firmly forward, keeping it horizontal. No need to remove blinkers, under headlight trims, etc. You're free.

[Northern_Mike]

I am sure those inexplicably long bolts are 10mm on the S2, not 13mm as on the S1. There's a T15 screw just under the end of the chrome trim on each end

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[Xaccers]

Well ... i've managed the small 10mm bolts on the inner wing, the 20torx screws and the three across the underbody (all sheared) but cant see any under the trim that go into the body. Are you sure theres some under there? And are there any more. Addo ... you mention more 10mm?

When Mike mentioned the torx under the trim, he was referring to the ones Addo mentioned too that screw up into the wings, and you've removed them, so time to wiggle that baby off by pulling gently but firmly directly forward.
It's on two big square pegs.

[addo]

Almost. In that photo you can see the hooked up lip on the bumper that needs disengaging from the wing.

[addo]

I almost forgot!

Take care when removing if you have heated headlamp washers. You'll need to unhook the water pipe and electrical connector too.

[addo]

Personally I would suggest good (new) drill bits; work up in sizes from 3/32" and take your time to stay centred. When you get near the root diameter of the thread, then either go to a left hand drill bit or a good quality extractor.

[Northern_Mike]

Yep ... i've got washers too
Anyone know if those stud extractor thingys are any good? I've got 4 broken bolts now

My experience with these extractor things is that unless they are extremely expensive items, they're s**t, and your better off with a set of decent drill bits to drill them almost out then the outer bit usually collapses anyway.