Hi Mike,
It's the electrovalve on the RH inner wing by the strut top that is responsible for controlling the turbo wastegate. Will (KP) had the same problem with his.
It will not be responsible for any starting issues...
Has the immobiliser released OK (green light on keypad) and can you hear the fuel pump running?
I've asked this before but ....
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
Jim
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
Mike, it could be nothing more than stale petrol...
Worth a go before taking the final decision...
I recall the coolant leak. happy to provide whatever I can again now... I was some pictures of that area wasn't it? I have a head on the bench in my workshop. Been there for years now.
Worth a go before taking the final decision...
I recall the coolant leak. happy to provide whatever I can again now... I was some pictures of that area wasn't it? I have a head on the bench in my workshop. Been there for years now.
Jim
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
If there are boost pipes missing it will make it a little harder to start from the issue i had but as Jim said the actuator wont cause a starting issue, just a very economical engine They aint cheap and are dealer only currently
Get the petrol taken out and use it for parts washing and stick some tesco momentum or other high RON fuel in the tank, at least 10litres once you drain the system to help compensate for any old juice in there.
Easiest way to drain is take the fuel supply pipe off the rail and put it into a container and just turn the key to the run position. On most cars this will start the intank pump priming and will run for about 30seconds takes a while sometimes depending on how much you have in the tank but the easiest and least messy way to do it.
If the pipe isnt long enough cut some garden hose to length and slide over the pipe and then use some ductape to seal it
Get the petrol taken out and use it for parts washing and stick some tesco momentum or other high RON fuel in the tank, at least 10litres once you drain the system to help compensate for any old juice in there.
Easiest way to drain is take the fuel supply pipe off the rail and put it into a container and just turn the key to the run position. On most cars this will start the intank pump priming and will run for about 30seconds takes a while sometimes depending on how much you have in the tank but the easiest and least messy way to do it.
If the pipe isnt long enough cut some garden hose to length and slide over the pipe and then use some ductape to seal it
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
Mike,
Going back tom your coolant leak,
Here's the end of the head in question showing the coolant 'tank' in place:
No core plugs. Potential sources of leaks are the thermostat housing, the hose going off to the side, the coolant temperature sensors at the back and finally the head to tank joint:
There is no gasket and it's sealed with Wellseal or similar good like Blue Hylomar. Note that one half of the 'tank' is a water tank and the other half is an oil way draining the cambox back to the sump.
Another possibility in that area is the turbo coolant pipe that runs past the tank. It's mostly metal with rubber elbows.
Hope that's a little help Mike. As I say, very little to leak there..
Going back tom your coolant leak,
Here's the end of the head in question showing the coolant 'tank' in place:
No core plugs. Potential sources of leaks are the thermostat housing, the hose going off to the side, the coolant temperature sensors at the back and finally the head to tank joint:
There is no gasket and it's sealed with Wellseal or similar good like Blue Hylomar. Note that one half of the 'tank' is a water tank and the other half is an oil way draining the cambox back to the sump.
Another possibility in that area is the turbo coolant pipe that runs past the tank. It's mostly metal with rubber elbows.
Hope that's a little help Mike. As I say, very little to leak there..
Jim
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
A bit of trivia. I didn't notice until I reassembled the head I used for the pictures above but the TCT camshaft still has a distributor drive and a cam lobe for driving a mechanical fuel pump!
You can see both in the above pictures...
The water 'tank' has blind mountings for both these components..
And that's on a 1999 engine. Long after the last carb'd and dizzied 2.0 XU engine was produced.
You can see both in the above pictures...
The water 'tank' has blind mountings for both these components..
And that's on a 1999 engine. Long after the last carb'd and dizzied 2.0 XU engine was produced.
Jim
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
There should be a drain cock on the bottom of the rad Mike.superloopy wrote: PS What's the quickest way to drain down an Activa?
Else, pull the bottom hose off at the engine end, not the rad end as that's just about impossible...
Jim
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Re: I've asked this before but ....
Ahh You have a manually adjustable boost regulator there Mike. It bypasses the electrovalve and allows the engine to run a biot more boost and up the urge a bit.
Be careful that any disconnected pipes around the electrovalve are not leaking air into the inlet tract and upsetting the mixture.
Be careful that any disconnected pipes around the electrovalve are not leaking air into the inlet tract and upsetting the mixture.
Jim
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