Light bulbs?

[isisalar]

Hi guys
Had to change the nearside brake light bulb recently, not a lot of fun as the plastic wing nut holding the light assembly on was a bit tight and I just couldn't get it off without removing the cd player and loosening the bracket to be able to get a good grip on it. Made sure it wasn't on so tight when re fitted.
Now about 2 months later the bulb has gone again. When I got the car it had with it 2 genuine Citroen spare bulb kits and I used the bulb from one of these. These bulb kits were probably bought when the car was relatively new so they could be nearly 15 years old. Do bulbs deteriorate with age? I noticed it was gone when it was in BL auto's for some work and they said there have been a lot of new bulbs failing quickly lately. Anyone noticed this?
Cheers
Paul

[Peter.N.]

Hi Paul

The only three reasons why bulbs go is over voltage, vibration or shock. Its not likely to be excessive voltage or all the other bulbs would go as well, so would the battery. Either the bulb was faulty or it has been subject to excessive vibration or shock, so unless it can vibrate or has been hit hard I would say the bulb was faulty.

Peter

[hawaiianblue]

Tail light bulbs should last fine so long as they're not bashed about. Headlight bulbs could in theory deteriorate if the gas leaks out.

You could replace the tungsten bulbs with LED's there are very good ones out there now.

A smear of silicone grease stops plastic nuts from seizing up.

[sparksie]

After 15 years of being carried around in a car (even a Citroen) they've had a lifetime of vibration, so there were probably fatique cracks in the filament before you fitted it.
Yes, there do seem to be issues with bulbs not lasting as long as they once did.
I have no proof, but I suspect the quality control has slipped and filaments that should go in the reject bin are now finding their way into the envelopes.
Lately I've been seeing a lot more blackened bulbs too, usually a sign of oxygen inside the envelope, so QC is probably slipping here too.
Not long, I suspect, until only LEDs will be available though...

[jasdrisc]

Hi everyone,

just a quick question i have just bought some led indicator bulbs for my synergie and when i fitted them the front dont work and the side repeater and back flash really quick so i swapped for one that i knew worked to the front and still nothing is it because i might have to change the flasher relay for one thats more suitable for led`s? thx in advance

[sparksie]

Yes, you'll either have to change the relay, or get a bulb emulator (just a low value, high power resistor!) wired in parallel with rhe LED.
The low current draw of a LED "bulb" will be seen as a blown bulb, flagging a warning in cars equipped with bulb failure detection, or causing flash rate anomalies in conventional indicator systems.
I'm a little surprised at the LED not flashing at the higher rate, but it's probably a feature of the electronics in the "bulb" itself.
Might be worth double checking that the cap is the same as the one on the original bulb. Correct no of contacts, correct bayonet tips in the correct places, etc.
But either way, you will need to make the lamps and the flasher relay match each other.

[jasdrisc]

Yes, you'll either have to change the relay, or get a bulb emulator (just a low value, high power resistor!) wired in parallel with rhe LED.
The low current draw of a LED "bulb" will be seen as a blown bulb, flagging a warning in cars equipped with bulb failure detection, or causing flash rate anomalies in conventional indicator systems.
I'm a little surprised at the LED not flashing at the higher rate, but it's probably a feature of the electronics in the "bulb" itself.
Might be worth double checking that the cap is the same as the one on the original bulb. Correct no of contacts, correct bayonet tips in the correct places, etc.
But either way, you will need to make the lamps and the flasher relay match each other.

thx sparksie will get the appropriate flasher unit