AC Condenser connection

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RichardW
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AC Condenser connection

Post by RichardW »

Was putting the car back together today, so thought I'd see if I could get the condenser out and have a look at the hole in it. Got the top connection off, but the bottom is a refusnik so far... Basically there are 2 o-rings on the end of the pipe, then a big tear drop shaped collar, through which a stud protrudes, and the whole shebang is held together with a nut on the end of the stud. The stud has a collar on it just under flush on the condenser side, and an 'E' spline on the other end, so that you can wind the stud out, and it will pull the connector out. Trouble is I think the (steel) stud is corroded into the (ally) tear drop, and I haven't been able to shift it so far. This is not helped by not actually having the right size E socket - the next size up was feeling like it was going to round out, so the stud is pretty tight. The top one by comparison was only finger tight, and I was able to wiggle the pipe off. Have applied some plus gas, but wondering if there is something better to dissolve the corrosion? Coke perhaps? The E spline is pretty weedy, and not going to take a lot of abuse before it rounds out I suspect... Some heat may be required perhaps.
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by hamster99 »

Hi Richard,
Had the same issue on my wife's C3 condenser, the teardrop collar just wouldn't budge. My solution was to carefully use a hacksaw blade to cut a small slot in the ally of the condenser so that I could get a screwdriver behind the collar and wiggle it off with plenty of wd40. Eventually it gave way and I could lever it off. Guess main thing is to make sure any dents or screwdriver damage isn't in the area where the pipe with the o rings fits into.
Cheers
Rob
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citronut
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by citronut »

Richard
have you not got a selection of old multi point sockets, as i find you can usually find one that is a good fit on those E type studs/bolt heads,

or cant you just remove the nut and do similar to hamster99 suggests, but drop that ORIBL W stuff :shock: #-o :missile: :rolleyes: :wink: ,

as we all know on here it aint a penetrating or a lubricating fluid, but just a moisture displacent ,

its one of those things that dose not do what it says on the tin :yikes: :yikes: :conf: :o :-D :wink:
Regards, malcolm.

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RichardW
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by RichardW »

Don't worry Malc, I've got Plus Gas =D> This is a very specific type of corrosion though - ally to steel (probably not unlike that on the back of Xantia rear calipers!), and it might be that something else is better at dissolving it - eg Coke! New sockets on order anyway - I didn't try a hex, but the stud it pretty tight, and seeming not available separately, and it has some weird thread on the end in the condenser! All the sealing is done by the O-rings anyway, so even if the face of the teardrop collar gets a bit mullered around the stud it won't affect future seal capability :twisted:
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citronut
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by citronut »

RichardW wrote: I didn't try a hex,
no not a hex bud but a multi point the likes of

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/12-point-socket-set" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Regards, malcolm.

current ride a BX 1.7 TZD estate
1986 MK1 BX 1.9na D Auto(in Mothman Andy's stable )
layed up roppy 1.9TD XANT estate, now gone to meet her maker
purple and lilac metalic 2CV(VIOLET)registered to her in doors
1972 DS special been layed up aprox 31 years
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by sparksie »

So called "Bi-hex" sockets will usually work, but they drive on the points, not the flats.
This makes them much more likely to round off the corners/points of whatever they're used on.
Once the torque is not too high, though, they're great for triangular, square and E spline fittings, as well as their intended hex!
Sparksie

2000 Xantia 1.9TurboD
citronut
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by citronut »

sparksie wrote:So called "Bi-hex" sockets will usually work, but they drive on the points, not the flats.

i would say this is only on a hex bolt head/nut,

if used on an E type splined bolt head and are a nice snug fit, they should work better than if used on the hex head
Regards, malcolm.

current ride a BX 1.7 TZD estate
1986 MK1 BX 1.9na D Auto(in Mothman Andy's stable )
layed up roppy 1.9TD XANT estate, now gone to meet her maker
purple and lilac metalic 2CV(VIOLET)registered to her in doors
1972 DS special been layed up aprox 31 years
RichardW
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by RichardW »

This is a tiny spline fitting though - it's on the end of an M6 (or maybe 4) stud, would be about 4mm socket, which won't be 12 point....! E4 and 5 sockets ordered from e-bay, and Coke on standby - should be able to get it!
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by RichardW »

Got it off this afternoon, but it put up some struggle! Turns out the whole collar was 'welded' to the condenser, and it took a lot of wiggle and prying before I could finally get a screwdriver in behind it and lever it off. No obvious hole in the condenser, but there is a bit dent in it, so I assume it's got a pinhole in it. Got a new one next day from fastrads for only £60 so not too bad. Now to get it re-gassed and see if it will play ball....

Took the heat shield off the DPF again as well, to re-seat the connection onto the turbo as I didn't get it gas tight last time, and it was blowing. Dunno how, but the thread was stripped on the clamp bolt - sure I didn't do it up that tight.... found a spare one in the garage though, so that's all right. Hopefully got it gas tight this time, don't want to have to take the rad out again.... :roll:
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by Gibbo2286 »

Instead of WD40 or Plus-gas on those alloy/steel corrosions try etching fluid which is really an acid used to etch alloy parts before painting, don't splash it on your naughty bits though :-D
Man is, by nature, a lazy beast, he does not need twice encouraging to do nothing.
RichardW
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Re: AC Condenser connection

Post by RichardW »

Regassed and now cold :lol: Will monitor it and see if it holds the pressure.

Not sure anything would have released the connector on this - the corrosion was well spread over the whole fitting. After a while though it was loose around the stud, to faced with the same again, I would wiggle first to get the stud freed off, then try and wind the stud out. Hopefully I won't have to do it again soon, but then again the C4 has the same condenser....
Richard W
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