Ticking ???

[martscar]

Hi all. Got to ask this question, although I'm sure that the answer has been in front of me on more than one occasion ..I have been listening for the regulator tick on my Xantia but I'm blowed if I can hear the so and so. What if any are the other methods of checking the accumulator sphere please. My hearing is not what it was which is not helping

[Hell Razor5543]

Another way is to use a long screwdriver and hold the end against the regulator body. You should then feel the vibration of the ticking. I cannot offer anything more, as I have not needed to use this method (all my green blooded Citroens have ticked loud enough for me to hear).

[citronut]

after the engine has been run with suspension set at normal height and let it settle at normal height, switch the engine off then move the the height lever to the highest setting, then the suspension should rise a bit on its own

[martscar]

Well I tried this and it rises, not a lot but it does come up. Ticking has been sorted, I think. It seems that the pump makes a rattle and then the tick occurs. At the moment its about 90 seconds apart so hopefully its ok.I just thought that changing the accumulator might have helped improve the brakes as an easy fix. So anyway thanks for the tip, its an easy way to keep an eye on it.Martin

[Xaccers]

Give the brakes a good long bleed

[martscar]

I bled them after a fluid change, each one about 100ml or so with new fluid coming out but they are no match for the ones on my wife's 207.If she uses say 5 lb of pressure on the pedal it stops dead whereas I am using say 25lb of pressure on the pedal to get any where near the same effect

[Hell Razor5543]

Normally when you bleed the rear brakes (after a fluid change) you need to get about 500ml out the rear brakes to ensure there are no bubbles (especially if you have ABS) due to the pipe routing. You will get less out the front, as there is less pipework to go through. I would still plan on 'losing' about 1.5l though.

[Old-Guy]

Normally when you bleed the rear brakes (after a fluid change) you need to get about 500ml out the rear brakes to ensure there are no bubbles (especially if you have ABS) due to the pipe routing. You will get less out the front, as there is less pipework to go through. I would still plan on 'losing' about 1.5l though.

I agree completely. The rear brake circuit is a dead end fed from the rear suspension circuit (in which the fluid constantly circulates), the pressure feed pipe goes all the way forward to the doseur valve (operated by the pedal), then to the ABS control block before going all the way back to each rear calliper.

[martscar]

O k its the least involved of the remedies I was considering and definitely the easiest so its worth a go. I got the method of the forum and having done it before I feel confident. I must say I am a bit surprised that it could be that but it must be tried if only to rule it out. Thanks for that. Martin

[Xaccers]

Once you've bled the brakes, if it's not any better, you could try lifting the brake pedal up, pulling the black "top hat" that's plugged into the underside about half way up out of it. It's actually like two top hats stuck brim to brim, and inside is a spring to give the brake pedal a "normal" feel rather than the old Citroen on/off. Measure the spring length and get some 15mm copper pipe cut to match and fit that instead of the spring.

Another culprit of brakes feeling weak that's been mentioned in the past is flexi pipes on the front brakes that need replacing.

[citronut]

I bled them after a fluid change, each one about 100ml or so with new fluid coming out but they are no match for the ones on my wife's 207.If she uses say 5 lb of pressure on the pedal it stops dead whereas I am using say 25lb of pressure on the pedal to get any where near the same effect

this should be the other way round with a hydraulic citroen

[martscar]

So that's where the spring lives. I read something about this a while ago but have not come across it . I have an advice note ,in fact a couple, on MOT's say front flexi pipes showing signs of cracking and bought some but when I looked they seem impossible to get at. The outer end is easy enough but the inner not so and I suppose there is a seal in there but what size.I have the flare spanners and a pit but even so. I will try the easier possibilities first ,bleeding and spring. I may even chicken out with the pipes and give it to Pierre at my local Citroen workshop though I don't want to.Martin

[Jaf]

Flexi pipes look odd where they go through the housing, I thought they'd be nasty but they come undone easy enough with a decent spanner or mole grips.

[martscar]

Hi, yes what housing. Is that the bit where they join the rigid and what sequence did you use please. Any seals in there can you remember Were your brakes improved ? If its possible its worth a go and you obviously managed it.Martin

[Jaf]

There's the end that goes into the caliper and then the other end goes to the metal pipe through a plate or housing. Sorry can't think of a better word! The pipe undoes from the other side of the plate so you can't see it very well. The connector is part of the metal pipe so be careful not to round it off. I did caliper end first but I don't suppose it matters. I replaced mine just as they were starting to perish so no improvement.