Newbie Xantia Suspension Arms and Antiroll bars replacement

[danny13]

Following my successful handbrake cable replacement, I will be attempting to replace the parts required to fix the following MOT fails....

1 Nearside front lower Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement.
2 Offside front lower Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement.
3 Nearside front Anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint
4 Offside front Anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint
5 Nearside front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover insecure so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt

Being a total novice, I'm not even convinced I've ordered the correct parts to fix all of these yet alone identify them on the car....so these are the parts I've brought..

1 - http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/616545190/p/home
2 -http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/616545200/p/home
3,4,5 - http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/600735210/p/home

I hoping these are the correct items as I got confused between drop link and antirollbar, hoping they're the same thing!?

Also what tools will be required, so far on my shopping list I've identified I need new :
'deep' socket set
breaker bar

I've got an old ball joint splitter...although haven't identified where I'll need to use this yet. I have WD40 and hopefully somewhere a plumbing blowtorch. Oh and I have axle stands and a trolley jack.

[Hell Razor5543]

The anti roll bar links are probably correct. Replacing them can be a bit tricky. It is not unknown for the lock nuts to seize on, making it difficult to remove them. Before starting, check the stubs of the old ones to see if there is an Allan key head, and if so, what size. Then get hold of some Plus Gas (which you can get from ECP) as this is a proper dismantling spray (WD40 isn't, it was developed as a water dispersant, hence the WD). Use the Plus Gas on the threads of the drop links, spray it on daily for about a week to help loosen off any rust. Once you have replaced the drop links, smear a load of grease on the threads to assist future removal.

I cannot help with the other bits.

[danny13]

Cheers Hell Razor...I did attempt to loosen the droplink nuts, but it seemed to be just spinning...will investigate further!

[danny13]

Another noob question, what position should the suspension be at when jacking for suspension work?

[Hell Razor5543]

I would always raise the suspension to full height, as it makes jacking so much easier. Definitely make use of the axle stands whenever you are under a green blooded Citroen.

Spinning threads on drop links is not an uncommon issue. Wire brush the threads, check to see if there is an Allan head, use the Plus Gas, and pray! When this happened to me on Gracie I had to detach the threaded bit from the main body of the drop link, and use a Stilson type wrench on the ball to allow me to get the nut off.

Be aware that some drop links come with nuts and washers, while others don't. If you haven't done so already, check your replacements. If you need them, get decent sized washers and good quality lock nuts (do not use normal nuts, they could come loose with all the movement and vibrations).

[Northern_Mike]

Check there isn't an allen - head in thr middle of the bolt. If there is, stick an allen key on it and use an open ended spanner on the nut.

Always put it on high.

Always use axle stands.

Jack up both sides when doing drop links.

If your new drop links came with new nuts, go to your local homebase, buy a cheap mini angle grinder for a tenner and cut the old ones off. Saves so much botheration if they are seized.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[rory_perrett]

If the anti roll bar drop links are being a pain and you have replacement nuts then I have to say a cheap angle grinder is the answer - very useful bit of kit for 101 other jobs.

Those suspension arms look a good price - as you may have seen if you have searched on the forum there seems to be a bit of a issue with the rear p bushes wearing out again superfast when new ones have been fitted. Speculation is that the orientation of the p bush relative to the arm is critical so as yours come with them fitted hopefully they should last a while. Remember not to tighten up the bolts holding the arm until the car is back on its wheels and back at normal ride height.

I may be wrong (often am) but I seem to think the bolts holding the rear arm bush to the subframe require an 18mm socket (the steering rack ones certainly do). This is a slightly unusual size in that most socket sets have a 17mm and a 19mm but not an 18mm. It might be worth a check before you start, as the 19mm appears to fit but just rounds the hex off if you have to apply any real force.

[danny13]

Cheers Rory, Mike, Razor.
I think you're right Rory 18mm needed, 19mm felt a little loose.

I might be missing something as I haven't attempted to remove any nuts yet (awaiting new sockets) but which part needs the ball joint splitter, no 5?

[Hell Razor5543]

Position 1 may have an Allen head. Spray some cleaning fluid in there, make sure it is nice and clean, and then see what size Allan key fits.

You will need to find out what the nut size is (M10 or M12) for the drop links are. According to the Haynes BoL, the torque for an M10 is 30foot pounds, while the M12 if 52foot pounds.

[danny13]

have some new lock nuts on the new droplinks....they came with a plastic shielding although one is broken, this is just packaging its not a dust cap or anything?

[rory_perrett]

No plastic bit is binned, just there to protect the rubber dust cover.

Ball joint splitter required at "5" to separate hub from suspension arm.

[sparksie]

Hi Danny

I'm half way through doing the bushings on mine. The NS ones are done and the OS ones are on the agenda for tomorrow.
Yes, the ball joint splitter is for position no 5 in your pictures. The ball joint can be VERY tight. My Sykes Pickavant splitter bit the dust trying to shift it.
I had to use a two legged puller on mine. If you look closely, you'll see there are shoulders cast into the end of the arm specifically for this. In my case I was using a 10 ton hydraulic puller, which made a nice easy job of it.
If using a splitter, or a standard mechanical puller, don't try and rush it. Wind up the pressure gradually and try to shock it loose by tapping the arm around the joint with a hammer. Be careful. It may release violently, especially if you have a lot of pressure on whatever tool you're using to split it. Keep your face out of the way!
That drop link is not the same as mine. On mine there's one ball joint at right angles to the link and one in line with it. I think you probably have a different ARB.
Also, the ends of the studs will probably have a Torx shaped hole, rather than Allen. Give it a spray with carb cleaner, or similar, and get some light in there to identify it properly. Using the wrong tool here is guaranteed to round the hole, making it very hard to tighten the new locknut. Of course, if you're fitting a whole new drop link, there's no reason to mess about trying to open stubborn nuts. Just cut them, being careful not to damage the strut or anti-roll bar!
If doing the two drop links, I gather you should do one side at a time, to avoid upsetting the ride height, which I gather uses the ARB to check suspension height.
Given all the trouble I've had getting decent quality bushings, I wish I'd gone for complete arms. They're very nicely priced at that £64 and they're a doddle to do, compared to the way I did mine!

[Hell Razor5543]

I do agree that, before using any tools in the stub end, you check as to what type of head (Torx or Allen) it has. However, when I replaced both on Gracie they were Allen heads, and looking at the photo with the dust covers I can see yours are Allen heads as well (well, the one with the intact dust cover is!).

[RichardW]

Don't bugger about trying to undo the drop links - you just won't be able to. Get a grinder and chop them off - 10 mins, piece of cake. Just set the guard so that it protects the handbrake cable when it 'grabs'...

21mm socket needed for the bottom ball joint - you may find your splitter won't fit in here, there's not much room between the arm and the hub. Mine just goes in - tighten the bolt a bit, hammer it in a bit, tighten the bolt a bit. 18mm socket and spanner needed for the arm, as well, I think as a 16mm - not necessarily common sizes. You may well need to depressure the suspension to be able to get the arm in / out. Don't disconnect both sides of the roll bar at the same time, and then lift it up to get the arm out/in - you will mess up the suspension height.

[danny13]

Cheers Richard, I'll look to pick up a 16mm socket and grinder too.
As an aside although I never done it i've heard of chiselling stubborn nuts off, would this be an option or would too much 'clouting' damage the droplink connecting components?