"Suitable sealant" for sump?

[Old-Guy]

As my usual "technical consultant" isn't available, can anyone tell me what to use to reseal the sump (XUDT9) please?

The original sealant was about 2mm thick and grey in colour. It looked as if a bead was applied and the sump quickly tightened down (or should that be up?) until the gap was 2mm(?), then allowed to set before the bolts were torqued.

All the BoL says is "apply a thin layer of a suitable sealant". If I hadn't seen the original, I'd use Hylomar but as far as I can remember, it's not intended to be used that thickly.

[RichardW]

RTV Silicone (well that's what I used to seal the sump on the C4 Picasso recently!).

[c.morewood]

Blue Hylomar.. thats what I've been using for years. Spread it thinly on both clean surfaces and it'll never leak.

[Rhothgar]

Blue Hylomar.

Rolls Royce use it (or used to) in place of gaskets. I was lead to believe they engineered to millionths though not thousandths.

Probably their aero engines?

[lexi]

Hylomar isn't so good for a pressed steel sump onto a cast block. There can be quite a bit of warpage on those tin pressings. As stated it was for fine tolerance purposes. The RTV or polyurethane are best for sump.
That method of applying and then putting together and holding lightly till just impressing on sealant, is best. Tighten when cured.

[Peter.N.]

Ordinary bathroom sealer is very efficient if you apply a bead to the cleaned and dried sump and leave it overnight, you then have a nice rubber gasket which wont dislodge.

Peter

[Old-Guy]

When I took a good look at the sump, there's a setscrew every 25mm or so, it's a good fit and the joint thickness isn't critical. Pressed for time, I used what I had - Hylomar. I've used it on and off for 45 years and have yet to have a bad joint. The secret is really clean joint faces that fit closely. RTV silicone is good stuff, but it's fairly soft.

We'll soon see.