Hi,
my driver side window stucks in the middle while it's going up (going down is ok). When it's stucked I have to keep pressing the button, and the other hand pull the window upward. Once it passes that "stucking" point, it's fine.
Another problem is (this is more severe [:(], I can put up with the first problem above, but not this one). It is when the window unable to move up any further, i.e, reach the top and when it stucks in the middle (in my case), it makes horrible noise (tak,tak,tak). Sounds like it's still trying to move the window up.
Does anybody knows what's the faulty part? Do I need to replace anything? How to fix it myself?
Thank you very much!
Electric window problem.
Moderator: RichardW
Try lube the window guide channels with silicone (spray/brush).
The horrible sound is caused by the winder mechanism's drive cog's slipping - as the motor is strong enough to keep trying move the window up. But the cogs can't stand the heavy load by the stuck window.
If the problem persists - it may be a matter of stripping the door - to gain access to the complete window winder mechanism - as chances are a more severe problem causing the window to tilt and then stuck.
The horrible sound is caused by the winder mechanism's drive cog's slipping - as the motor is strong enough to keep trying move the window up. But the cogs can't stand the heavy load by the stuck window.
If the problem persists - it may be a matter of stripping the door - to gain access to the complete window winder mechanism - as chances are a more severe problem causing the window to tilt and then stuck.
Don't know if this'll help, but Halfords sell a £3.99 spray can of rubber lubricant (oo-er missus) that worked for me. And since then my conjugal life has improved beyond measure!
Now don't get carried away by your imagination. The missus runs a Volkswagen Polo with those magic paranoid window winders that will instantly go into reverse if they even think they detect an obstacle blocking the window. (Such as a child's head. Ugh. But seriously, real-life tragedies like that were the reason why VW took this action.)
Anyway, so there she was, trying to wind her electric windows up in the rain, and the rubber seals were too tight against the glass, so the paranoid VW mechanism kept on winding them down again because it suspected an imminent guillotining of somebody's infant. And she was totally unable to shut the bloody windows against the rain. Sometimes, indeed, the windows wound down so far into the door panel that nobody could get them out again without a lot of cursing and bullying.
WD40 on the window seals only made things worse. Apparently it rots synthetic rubber. But with just one spray of Halford's magic rubber lubricant I added those all important extra four inches to my....er, window winder operation. And I've been a household god ever since. Grateful? I should say!
Try it. It really works!
Now don't get carried away by your imagination. The missus runs a Volkswagen Polo with those magic paranoid window winders that will instantly go into reverse if they even think they detect an obstacle blocking the window. (Such as a child's head. Ugh. But seriously, real-life tragedies like that were the reason why VW took this action.)
Anyway, so there she was, trying to wind her electric windows up in the rain, and the rubber seals were too tight against the glass, so the paranoid VW mechanism kept on winding them down again because it suspected an imminent guillotining of somebody's infant. And she was totally unable to shut the bloody windows against the rain. Sometimes, indeed, the windows wound down so far into the door panel that nobody could get them out again without a lot of cursing and bullying.
WD40 on the window seals only made things worse. Apparently it rots synthetic rubber. But with just one spray of Halford's magic rubber lubricant I added those all important extra four inches to my....er, window winder operation. And I've been a household god ever since. Grateful? I should say!
Try it. It really works!
I don't want to spoil a perfectly innocent discussion on rubber and silicon but there is another possibility.
You don't say which model you have xantian but if the winder mechanism is in the form of a wire pulley and a winding drum the problem could be worse.
The multistrand wire used to pull the window up and pull the window down is subject to corrosion. It begins to fret at the tightest bends and if some strands break loose they cause havoc where the wire has to pass inside an outer cable. The inner cable jams and the 'tak,tak,tak' noise is the gearbox which drives the drum jumping a tooth on the worm drive.
This is the case in the XM, I know, I've been there. Replacement of the wire is the only DIY alternative. The dealer will try to rape you for £160 for the priviledge of selling you a whole new mechanism with the same design fault. Isn't that nice of him?
If this is the design and the subsequent fault, let me know and I'll talk you through the wire replacement. Otherwise I'm talking rubbish and will shut up.
cheers
noz[;)]
You don't say which model you have xantian but if the winder mechanism is in the form of a wire pulley and a winding drum the problem could be worse.
The multistrand wire used to pull the window up and pull the window down is subject to corrosion. It begins to fret at the tightest bends and if some strands break loose they cause havoc where the wire has to pass inside an outer cable. The inner cable jams and the 'tak,tak,tak' noise is the gearbox which drives the drum jumping a tooth on the worm drive.
This is the case in the XM, I know, I've been there. Replacement of the wire is the only DIY alternative. The dealer will try to rape you for £160 for the priviledge of selling you a whole new mechanism with the same design fault. Isn't that nice of him?
If this is the design and the subsequent fault, let me know and I'll talk you through the wire replacement. Otherwise I'm talking rubbish and will shut up.
cheers
noz[;)]
First of all, thanks for the replies!
I'll pop to Halford later on to get that magic rubber lube spray.[:)]
However, I think the 2nd problem will still exist. Because as I said, the motor slipping occurs as well when the window reaches the top. In other word, whenever it's unable to move upward. So, Noz, I'm afraid I have to bother you again.
Noz, the model is Xantia dimension 94 (M reg). Has it got the same machanism as your XM?
Is the model information above enough for you to make the decision that your suspect of cause is right (i.e, wires knackered)? Or do I need to strip the window down in order to verify it? If so, please feel free to talk me through.
Also, can anyone learn me a crash course of stripping the window/door? cheers..
I'll pop to Halford later on to get that magic rubber lube spray.[:)]
However, I think the 2nd problem will still exist. Because as I said, the motor slipping occurs as well when the window reaches the top. In other word, whenever it's unable to move upward. So, Noz, I'm afraid I have to bother you again.
Noz, the model is Xantia dimension 94 (M reg). Has it got the same machanism as your XM?
Is the model information above enough for you to make the decision that your suspect of cause is right (i.e, wires knackered)? Or do I need to strip the window down in order to verify it? If so, please feel free to talk me through.
Also, can anyone learn me a crash course of stripping the window/door? cheers..
Xantian,
I'm sorry, Ive never had a Xantia so I can't confirm if its the same. Unless someone else can confirm then its door off time! Having said that it sounds like door off time in any case.
Again I don't know the Xantia but the principle for all doors is the same. There will be a few solid fixings (ie bolts or allen screws through the top and bottom of the door handle) and the remainder will be these horrible, ribbed, push-fit plastic fittings. They're OK when they are warm and the plastic is pliable but when the plastic is cold (ie in this weather) the male part (fixed to the vinyl covered foam which constitutes the inner door trim) will break before letting go of the female part (which is fixed to the metal skin of the door), even with the proper tool for the job (metal or plastic fork with two prongs which slides between the inner door skin and the door, one prong placed either side of the plastic fixing and levered off).
Once the inner skin is off you usually have to remove the plastic film covering the access holes. It is advisable to replace the film once finished because the inside of the door is at the same conditions as outside ie cold and wet. There's no attempt to seal the glass so rainwater pours into the inside of the door and dribbles out the bottom, hence the corrosion on the window winder.
The winder mechanism is invariably secured by three bolts on the motor and one bolt each at the top and bottom of the guide. Take all 5 bolts out and disconnect the electric cable from the motor. The glass is usually fixed to the guide via a plastic clip. Undo the clip to release the glass from the guide. Prop the glass up out of the way (you may need to remove it - another story !) It is now a feat of gymnastics and chinese puzzles to fish the mechanism out through one of the holes.
Once out in your hand the problem should be visible. If not, the motor can be temporarily reconnected back to the electric plug and exercised up and down to find the problem.
If the problem is the cable fraying then I've described the replacement elsewhere in this forum.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=3241
best of luck
cheers
noz
I'm sorry, Ive never had a Xantia so I can't confirm if its the same. Unless someone else can confirm then its door off time! Having said that it sounds like door off time in any case.
Again I don't know the Xantia but the principle for all doors is the same. There will be a few solid fixings (ie bolts or allen screws through the top and bottom of the door handle) and the remainder will be these horrible, ribbed, push-fit plastic fittings. They're OK when they are warm and the plastic is pliable but when the plastic is cold (ie in this weather) the male part (fixed to the vinyl covered foam which constitutes the inner door trim) will break before letting go of the female part (which is fixed to the metal skin of the door), even with the proper tool for the job (metal or plastic fork with two prongs which slides between the inner door skin and the door, one prong placed either side of the plastic fixing and levered off).
Once the inner skin is off you usually have to remove the plastic film covering the access holes. It is advisable to replace the film once finished because the inside of the door is at the same conditions as outside ie cold and wet. There's no attempt to seal the glass so rainwater pours into the inside of the door and dribbles out the bottom, hence the corrosion on the window winder.
The winder mechanism is invariably secured by three bolts on the motor and one bolt each at the top and bottom of the guide. Take all 5 bolts out and disconnect the electric cable from the motor. The glass is usually fixed to the guide via a plastic clip. Undo the clip to release the glass from the guide. Prop the glass up out of the way (you may need to remove it - another story !) It is now a feat of gymnastics and chinese puzzles to fish the mechanism out through one of the holes.
Once out in your hand the problem should be visible. If not, the motor can be temporarily reconnected back to the electric plug and exercised up and down to find the problem.
If the problem is the cable fraying then I've described the replacement elsewhere in this forum.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=3241
best of luck
cheers
noz
Very inventive "beating the system" Noz!
Funnily enough I've had three of these fail this summer. One drivers front elec on a Xantia, another rear elec on a Xantia and a rear manual on a ZX. All were mangled cables.
The ZX winder assy was reasonable at about £35. Bear in mind the Xantia elec fronts are only about £70 from GSF, at that price you might choose to replace rather than repair. Sadly GSF don't do the rear ones so off to Citroen with £100 plus!
David
Funnily enough I've had three of these fail this summer. One drivers front elec on a Xantia, another rear elec on a Xantia and a rear manual on a ZX. All were mangled cables.
The ZX winder assy was reasonable at about £35. Bear in mind the Xantia elec fronts are only about £70 from GSF, at that price you might choose to replace rather than repair. Sadly GSF don't do the rear ones so off to Citroen with £100 plus!
David
Oh God, I thought I'd escape the wire window winder buying a Xantia...[xx(]
I had problems with the wire on my AX - never did replace it in the end. The drivers window is held up by curtain wire...
It's a damn disgusting system.[:(]
The first chance I get I'll have the trim off the front doors and grease it all up in the hope that I can save myself trouble in the future.
Are the Xantia back doors the same wire construction?
I had problems with the wire on my AX - never did replace it in the end. The drivers window is held up by curtain wire...
It's a damn disgusting system.[:(]
The first chance I get I'll have the trim off the front doors and grease it all up in the hope that I can save myself trouble in the future.
Are the Xantia back doors the same wire construction?
I haven't strip the door yet. In fact I'm waiting for someone to confirm whether Xantia is "wire" winder machnism. Because it sounds quite difficult taking the door apart. But if no one answer by this weekend, I'll do the job myself, Im up for that! [8D]
Looks like the parts I need are
1. wire £70 from GSF.
2. plastic film.
Is there anything else I need? where is GSF? where can I get the plastic film and how much?
Looks like the parts I need are
1. wire £70 from GSF.
2. plastic film.
Is there anything else I need? where is GSF? where can I get the plastic film and how much?
GSF : www.gsfcarparts.com
plastic film : the kind used under floors for sound damping (3mm foam) and some glue.
other parts : hmm-hmm- depends, but as suggested silicone, maybe some antirust for door internal panels while u-r-there.
You may even ask your missus about the foam - as it's also used for forming shoulders in women's fashion clothes [8D]
Should be available as self adhesive.
plastic film : the kind used under floors for sound damping (3mm foam) and some glue.
other parts : hmm-hmm- depends, but as suggested silicone, maybe some antirust for door internal panels while u-r-there.
You may even ask your missus about the foam - as it's also used for forming shoulders in women's fashion clothes [8D]
Should be available as self adhesive.