headlights
Moderator: RichardW
headlights
Hi suggestions on improving dip headlights on Xantia.
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Richard Gallagher
- Posts: 803
- Joined: 31 Oct 2001, 02:36
- Location: South Bucks
- My Cars:
Firstly check their alignment, most headlights are pointed straight at the floor by the 'mechanic' doing the cars PDI from new.
To adjust them you need to put a long allen key into the small holes in the bonnet shut panel, I believe the inside ones do the vertical, the outside the lateral adjustment
Failing that, try Xenon gas bulbs as they do help, but I would be wary of using 100 watt bulbs as they put a strain on the wiring.
The last resort (if the car is of the early type) is to change the headlight lenses to the later version which throws a better light pattern.
Having owned both early and late versions of Xantias at the same time, correct alignment and Xenon bulbs should do the job.
To adjust them you need to put a long allen key into the small holes in the bonnet shut panel, I believe the inside ones do the vertical, the outside the lateral adjustment
Failing that, try Xenon gas bulbs as they do help, but I would be wary of using 100 watt bulbs as they put a strain on the wiring.
The last resort (if the car is of the early type) is to change the headlight lenses to the later version which throws a better light pattern.
Having owned both early and late versions of Xantias at the same time, correct alignment and Xenon bulbs should do the job.
Well I have a somewhat different idea about headlights that I have used from CX through to BXs, both with reputedly bad lights and have even used them on Jap cars....(I'll go & wash my mouth out in a minute)[:D]
Having driven for many years in cars with the old style "round" headlights, my first experience in one with "square" ones happened a long time ago & it was scarey mainly due to the fact that I was on a 1000 klms trip, at night on country roads renowned for livestock & large wildlife in a vehicle I had just recently purchased. The thing that stood out most was the way the beam from the square lights just cut out abruptly, unlike round lights which tend to send an ambient light beyond the end of the beam. To rectify this, I firstly bought a set of Driving Lights wired via a relay and with monster wattage bulbs. Worked well until I had to dip for oncoming traffic whereupon I had the sensation akin to walking from a lit room to a dark one, hence sudden braking and near misses from being hit from behind were common.
Eventually after giving it a lot of thought and a few experiments, I found a good solution. The problem I have been told over your way could be the MOT but if this proves to be the case, it's something that can be easily rectified for the occasion & reset afterwards. It works so well, that I have never had anyone 'flash' me with their lights nor have I ever been pulled up by the coppers and had it questioned so it should be worth a try.
Set the nearside (passenger side) low beam at about the height just short of the normal setting for high beam and angled to the left by about 8 - 10 degrees. Set the drivers side up to about halfway between normal high & low beam setting and angle that light also to the left but just far enough so that the actual beam is just inside (LHS) the centreline on the road. By focussing this way you don't blind any oncoming traffic whilst at the same time illuminating the road about 10 times further than you did before when on high beam. It also means you have a clear view of anything such as broken down cars, drunks or animals either on the road verge or wandering onto the main carriageway or little boys in blue with speed cameras or radars.
What you have done effectively is given these square lights some forward ambient light that they don't normally show and the natural ambiant light they usually have which is sideways instead for forwards is enhanced and to an oncoming vehicle it is not obvious. I have heard of people upgrading to brighter bulbs which then gives you a brighter light but only in the same area as the ineffective ones and in so doing creates an ambient light situation due to reflection.
I've told a lot of people about this solution & most want to tell me why it won't work, could be illegal and all this stuff based on theories but the ones who have tried it have all claimed it to be the perfect solution to what I call the "Square light syndrome."
I think it's a problem that all manufacturers have woken up to which could explain why most new cars are now fitted with round lights set within a squarish stylish surround. This way they get the style features of the squarish lights and the practicality of the round ones and abolish the lack of ambient light defect common to all square ones.
Incidentally, the suggestions on the heights can be adjusted to suit anyone's particular needs as regards normal driving conditions such as City, country, combinattion of both or suburban. If anyone decides to give it a try, a feedback of the rsults I think would be interesting.
Alan S
Having driven for many years in cars with the old style "round" headlights, my first experience in one with "square" ones happened a long time ago & it was scarey mainly due to the fact that I was on a 1000 klms trip, at night on country roads renowned for livestock & large wildlife in a vehicle I had just recently purchased. The thing that stood out most was the way the beam from the square lights just cut out abruptly, unlike round lights which tend to send an ambient light beyond the end of the beam. To rectify this, I firstly bought a set of Driving Lights wired via a relay and with monster wattage bulbs. Worked well until I had to dip for oncoming traffic whereupon I had the sensation akin to walking from a lit room to a dark one, hence sudden braking and near misses from being hit from behind were common.
Eventually after giving it a lot of thought and a few experiments, I found a good solution. The problem I have been told over your way could be the MOT but if this proves to be the case, it's something that can be easily rectified for the occasion & reset afterwards. It works so well, that I have never had anyone 'flash' me with their lights nor have I ever been pulled up by the coppers and had it questioned so it should be worth a try.
Set the nearside (passenger side) low beam at about the height just short of the normal setting for high beam and angled to the left by about 8 - 10 degrees. Set the drivers side up to about halfway between normal high & low beam setting and angle that light also to the left but just far enough so that the actual beam is just inside (LHS) the centreline on the road. By focussing this way you don't blind any oncoming traffic whilst at the same time illuminating the road about 10 times further than you did before when on high beam. It also means you have a clear view of anything such as broken down cars, drunks or animals either on the road verge or wandering onto the main carriageway or little boys in blue with speed cameras or radars.
What you have done effectively is given these square lights some forward ambient light that they don't normally show and the natural ambiant light they usually have which is sideways instead for forwards is enhanced and to an oncoming vehicle it is not obvious. I have heard of people upgrading to brighter bulbs which then gives you a brighter light but only in the same area as the ineffective ones and in so doing creates an ambient light situation due to reflection.
I've told a lot of people about this solution & most want to tell me why it won't work, could be illegal and all this stuff based on theories but the ones who have tried it have all claimed it to be the perfect solution to what I call the "Square light syndrome."
I think it's a problem that all manufacturers have woken up to which could explain why most new cars are now fitted with round lights set within a squarish stylish surround. This way they get the style features of the squarish lights and the practicality of the round ones and abolish the lack of ambient light defect common to all square ones.
Incidentally, the suggestions on the heights can be adjusted to suit anyone's particular needs as regards normal driving conditions such as City, country, combinattion of both or suburban. If anyone decides to give it a try, a feedback of the rsults I think would be interesting.
Alan S
Quite ironic really, my car ( xantia ) has failed it's mot on headlamp aim ( plus a few other minor bits ). Aparently the aim is <i>too low</i>.
The thing is, I think the rear suspension height is also too low, so it's a little strange.
I'll check the measurements after the rugby ( after we've whipped Alan's a*se ! ), and then perhaps adjust the headlights using the methods mentioned ( I didn't think you could on Xantias ! ).
Mat.
The thing is, I think the rear suspension height is also too low, so it's a little strange.
I'll check the measurements after the rugby ( after we've whipped Alan's a*se ! ), and then perhaps adjust the headlights using the methods mentioned ( I didn't think you could on Xantias ! ).
Mat.
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
Any MOT station that failed my car for poor headlight aim would'nt be getting any future business from me, where I go they will adjust them for you during the test, and thats been the case for most of the stations that Iv'e used.
As for Alans method of adjustment, the roads we travel on are not all straight, if it bends even slightly to the left your headlight beam is going to be in someones face for relatively long periods, the last thing you want to do is dazzel some dickhead that can't drive worth a toss anyway, and have them turn in early on you, with potentaly fatal results.
Having them set that way in the uk will be an instant fail at the next test anyway.
My last six cars, fiesta, 205D, 2 xantias, and 2 ZX all have non round headlights, and all are adequate for their purpose and aspecialy the ZX and xantia so I can't see a problem with rectangular lamps, if the ones fitted to your vehicle are not up to it then look at the quality of the bulbs, the state of the reflectors and the wiring.
Its common sense to drive within your own limits and the limits of the vehicle, this includes the limits of your sight and the vehicles lighting. if you think you can't see far enough ahead to be safe at a given speed then you are going too fast at that partucular lighting intensity.
As we grow older we need much more light to see the same distance in these conditions as we did when we first started driving in our teen's, its the youngsters with more efficient and sensetive eyesight that you will be blinding, these are also the most inexperienced night driver you will have coming towards you, think ahead and see the whole picture not just your corner of it.
Dave
As for Alans method of adjustment, the roads we travel on are not all straight, if it bends even slightly to the left your headlight beam is going to be in someones face for relatively long periods, the last thing you want to do is dazzel some dickhead that can't drive worth a toss anyway, and have them turn in early on you, with potentaly fatal results.
Having them set that way in the uk will be an instant fail at the next test anyway.
My last six cars, fiesta, 205D, 2 xantias, and 2 ZX all have non round headlights, and all are adequate for their purpose and aspecialy the ZX and xantia so I can't see a problem with rectangular lamps, if the ones fitted to your vehicle are not up to it then look at the quality of the bulbs, the state of the reflectors and the wiring.
Its common sense to drive within your own limits and the limits of the vehicle, this includes the limits of your sight and the vehicles lighting. if you think you can't see far enough ahead to be safe at a given speed then you are going too fast at that partucular lighting intensity.
As we grow older we need much more light to see the same distance in these conditions as we did when we first started driving in our teen's, its the youngsters with more efficient and sensetive eyesight that you will be blinding, these are also the most inexperienced night driver you will have coming towards you, think ahead and see the whole picture not just your corner of it.
Dave
Dave & NiSk,
Sorry guys, but I think you're knocking it before you try it.
What has been said I have heard before & whilst it may seem to be that way in theory, in practice it isn't.
I don't drive on long straight deserted roads all the time in fact many of the roads I drive on that have the hazards I talk about present within the traffic and every car we have has had the lights set as I have said. Thing is, if they were round lights then those problems would exist, but as they aren't this is why they need adjusting this way...which is where we come in.
After all, if theories as things appear were true in practice, I should have fallen off the planet a long time ago, that's of course working on the assumption that the Earth is not flat.[:D][;)][:D]
Alan S[}:)]
Sorry guys, but I think you're knocking it before you try it.
What has been said I have heard before & whilst it may seem to be that way in theory, in practice it isn't.
I don't drive on long straight deserted roads all the time in fact many of the roads I drive on that have the hazards I talk about present within the traffic and every car we have has had the lights set as I have said. Thing is, if they were round lights then those problems would exist, but as they aren't this is why they need adjusting this way...which is where we come in.
After all, if theories as things appear were true in practice, I should have fallen off the planet a long time ago, that's of course working on the assumption that the Earth is not flat.[:D][;)][:D]
Alan S[}:)]
I was amused to find that for its MOT the tester would seem to have lowered the headlight beams on my BX. In fact what I think he's done is checked the lights with the engine turned off and the back of the car had dropped a bit. - Oh well - another little job to be done!
I suppose as a xantia has anti sink it wont suffer the same way.
jeremy
I suppose as a xantia has anti sink it wont suffer the same way.
jeremy
Right, I've found the two holes for each headlamp, which according to the book of lies, you insert an alan key into.
There isn't actually a bolt in there, the best way I've found it to take the headlamp back cover off ( or not, if you've lost it like me ! ), and use a screwdriver on the adjustment mechanism directly in line with that hole !
Having said that, I couldn't really see much difference, but then I wasn't aiming the lights against a wall.
There isn't actually a bolt in there, the best way I've found it to take the headlamp back cover off ( or not, if you've lost it like me ! ), and use a screwdriver on the adjustment mechanism directly in line with that hole !
Having said that, I couldn't really see much difference, but then I wasn't aiming the lights against a wall.
As AlanS suggests above - the whole idea is to shift the light pattern a bit more towards the kerb.
This surely lessens any chance that oncoming drivers are dazzled by your lights - and you can then turn up the angle of the beam a bit too - giving in fact a much better view driving dark hours.
But the problem is the MOT.
They don't care about the actual light pattern. They test how high the light beam is set - no matter if it's dazzling or not.
Therefore any adjusting of the light beam - setting the beam up - will fail the car.
Not knowing the UK MOT habits on this - I know it's a problem in DK MOT.
They go by square rules - not by logic.
As DaveBurns mentions - there are allways some maniacs who hates car's lights in dark hours - and try anything foolish to make you "beam down" - even if you have perfectly working lo beam lights on.
My argument to this is that it's even more important to spot these maniacs out - BEFORE you eventually hit them - as you are allways guilty as a car driver against any walking person !
This surely lessens any chance that oncoming drivers are dazzled by your lights - and you can then turn up the angle of the beam a bit too - giving in fact a much better view driving dark hours.
But the problem is the MOT.
They don't care about the actual light pattern. They test how high the light beam is set - no matter if it's dazzling or not.
Therefore any adjusting of the light beam - setting the beam up - will fail the car.
Not knowing the UK MOT habits on this - I know it's a problem in DK MOT.
They go by square rules - not by logic.
As DaveBurns mentions - there are allways some maniacs who hates car's lights in dark hours - and try anything foolish to make you "beam down" - even if you have perfectly working lo beam lights on.
My argument to this is that it's even more important to spot these maniacs out - BEFORE you eventually hit them - as you are allways guilty as a car driver against any walking person !
My problem was that the RH Light's alan key thingy had become disconnected from the slot underneath. I took the light out ( so easy ! ), and cleaned the glass, lubed the mechanism up a bit ( it's much easier to look at inside @ 21C rather than outside by torch at 5C ! )
Put the light back in, will adjust tomorrow morning !
Incidentally, what year of Xantia would I need to pinch these new design headlights for, and will they fit a 94 Mk 1 ???
Put the light back in, will adjust tomorrow morning !
Incidentally, what year of Xantia would I need to pinch these new design headlights for, and will they fit a 94 Mk 1 ???
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BonceChops
- Posts: 449
- Joined: 28 Sep 2003, 11:08
- Location: North West UK
- My Cars:
I have just rewired my 94 Xantia headlights. It has made a big difference but my wife Vauxhall Corsa still puts it to shame.
I found about a 2 volt drop between the battery and the bulbs on the positive cable and almost nothing on the negative side.
After wiring with bigger cable using 1 relay and fuse for dip and 1 for main beam I now have almost no volt drop on the positive cable.
Just connect your multimeter on DC volt range between the postive on the bulb and the positive on the battery with the lights on and the engine running to measure the volt drop. If it is high like mine carefully connect a decent sized cable from the battery positive to the bulb (with the lights still switched on) and see the bulb light up brighter and the volt drop on the meter reduce.
My lamps are 100w but my reflectors are in poor condition so maybe I will have to change the lights.
Neil
I found about a 2 volt drop between the battery and the bulbs on the positive cable and almost nothing on the negative side.
After wiring with bigger cable using 1 relay and fuse for dip and 1 for main beam I now have almost no volt drop on the positive cable.
Just connect your multimeter on DC volt range between the postive on the bulb and the positive on the battery with the lights on and the engine running to measure the volt drop. If it is high like mine carefully connect a decent sized cable from the battery positive to the bulb (with the lights still switched on) and see the bulb light up brighter and the volt drop on the meter reduce.
My lamps are 100w but my reflectors are in poor condition so maybe I will have to change the lights.
Neil