HRW Tabs adrift HDI

[isisalar]

Hi guys
Been working my way through all the broken wires that are stopping my HRW working, now all done (I hope) but the tabs on the screen the connectors go on to have come away. Done a bit of research and it seems that what's needed is this:- http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-21351-El ... B000HBGKWE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It seems to be the right stuff to do the job but only seems to be available online priced in dollars, and who knows how much for postage.
Anyone found anything similar in the UK, or have experience with Amazon for similar things? Loctite do a similar kit with the same 21351 no. but can't turn one up.
Or is there another solution?
Very odd that this is not widely available.
Cheers
Paul

[uncle buck]

Halofords sell it....>> HERE <<

I can't see how that is going to stick the tabs back on as it's a type of paint...isn't it ?

[isisalar]

Now there's the rub, the paint is readily available but the link I put up is for a two part epoxy paste infused with silver. Sort of solder without the heat, and specifically made for the job. Very important not to put anything rigid onto the glass, like superglue, and needs obviously to be conductive. Soldering is out because of the heat.
Seems very popular in the USA but not here?
Cheers
Paul

[Hell Razor5543]

I had the tab come of on my BX. I used a proper glass epoxy glue (as it was designed to have the same thermal expansion as glass), and then, once it had set properly, used silver conductive paint. 24h later I had a working HRW!

[dnsey]

Farnell sell silver-loaded epoxy, but it's over £54 for 14g
As regards silver paint, remember that a thin coat has lower resistance than a thick one, somewhat counter-intuitively.

[Hell Razor5543]

However, this is at the point where the tab is, so a lower resistance is not an issue. You want the higher resistance at the elements proper.

[uncle buck]

Now there's the rub, the paint is readily available but the link I put up is for a two part epoxy paste infused with silver. Sort of solder without the heat, and specifically made for the job...

I looked at your link but somehow didn't notice it was Tab Adhesive

There's videos on you tube of the tabs being soldered back on:

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Cheers.

[dnsey]

However, this is at the point where the tab is, so a lower resistance is not an issue. You want the higher resistance at the elements proper.

That's what I meant: the natural inclination is to slap on plenty of paint to ensure a good connection, but the opposite is true.

[isisalar]

Hi guys
Haven't been able to give this much attention lately but I am fascinated by Hellrazor's bond and paint solution. Are you saying that, after bonding with epoxy, that a covering of the conductive paint from the contact tab to the element makes enough of a contact for the screen to work? Good possibilities.
Something has been nagging away in my head about this problem and the penny's just dropped. Recently saw in the plumbers merchants a copper bonding system, replacing solder. Dismissed it completely as I'm very much a compression joint person Just did a quick google and came up with this:- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jaco-Copper-Sol ... _sbs_diy_1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Any comments?
Seems to be worth a try, just going up the plumbers merchant's to have a chat.
The tabs are pushfit tight between the glass and the tailgate, which will restrict glue access, and can't see the original bonding point, can anyone say how far they need to go in to meet the screen in the correct place? Would a bit of excess conductive paint/bonding agent have any bad effect.
This non access totally rules out a solder repair, thankfully, my nerves couldn't have stood it.
Cheers
Paul

[Hell Razor5543]

Well, the glass epoxy and silver conductive paint worked on my BX. The paint wasn't cheap (about £8 for a little tube), and it does go off over time, so I would suggest speaking to your mates to see if they need their HRW repaired.