Xantia S2 recirculate control (and faulty clock)

[Mandrake]

I'm sure this has been covered before, but how much work is it to fix a stuck recirculate flap on a Series 2 Xantia ?

The control is sitting about half way between the two settings and feels jammed but "springy". I'm not sure whether its stuck in recirculate or fresh or part way in between.

I know the control uses a bowden cable, but what goes wrong with it exactly ? The control on my previous Xantia failed in exactly the same way shortly before I sold it too, so I never got around to fixing that one.

Is it a major dash out job or can I get at it by removing the radio, glovebox and carpet below the fan ? Recirculate would be useful to get the cabin warmed up and demisted a bit faster in the winter but I can still manage ok with whatever position it seems to be stuck in...

[Xaccers]

It gets kinky.

Once that happens the cable prefers to bend rather than slide in and out of it's sheath.
If it isn't too bad, you may be able to twist the cable a bit more to toughen it up a bit, and then be very gentle with the slider.
What normally happens is someone has the blower on full blast, then decides to switch to recirculate. The air pressure from the blower is too great for the flap to close and the cable kinks.

To replace the cable it's a dash out job.

[Mandrake]

Bother! The dashboard won't be coming out on this car... at least not this winter... Seems like a bit of a design flaw if it can't be operated with the fun running on fast...

Can I attempt to de-kink the cable without the dashboard right out though ? Does it kink at one of the ends or the middle, and which way does it run from the control ?

[Xaccers]

The kink is at the control box end, so whip the radio out, release the screws holding the control box and pop the black top panel off.
I managed to get Cassy's working again by twisting the end more, well that was until an a/c place decided that they'd try and flip to recirc with the blower on full whilst showing the temperature drop of a regas.

[Mandrake]

Thanks, I might try that. If straightening the kink out gets it working again, I wonder if its possible to clamp something over the cable at the point where it kinked to reinforce it and prevent it kinking at the same spot again ?

[VertVega]

It might be an easy job without removing the dashboard. Don't give up

I did that 2 times, first it was the bend cable (the yellow shield) and second time in order to change bulbs.
I released the clip (circled in pic) and I dropped it somewhere behind. I never found it. So I had to adjust
the flap in open position and put everything together. It stayed like that until I got the clip from a scrap car.

You need to get the controls out, for example as seen in pic, you don't need to remove it completely.
Controls have the black top cover and in the pic it is already removed.
Orange & black cable is for the 2 bulbs. The black bulbs holder can be taken out only
with a certain combination of the toothed wheels position but I'm sure you can figure it out by trying.
Note: This pic is from LHD.



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Edit: I add the bulb type since it has been asked further below.
Bulb type is R509TMBK Dashboard Bulbs 12V 1.2W (Black)
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/R509TM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... Black.html
http://www.amazon.co.uk/R509TMBK-Dashbo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... B001W15II0

[Xaccers]

Thanks, I might try that. If straightening the kink out gets it working again, I wonder if its possible to clamp something over the cable at the point where it kinked to reinforce it and prevent it kinking at the same spot again ?

The problem is the kinked part goes into the sheath when in use, so anything you do to strengthen it would have to fit in the non-existant gap between the cable and the sheath
Potentially, you could build something solid up (thinking a putty that hardens) to use as a guide for the cable before it enters the sheath, but it mustn't get in the way of any other moving parts so there isn't much space to work with meaning there isn't much strength.

[Mandrake]

Ah, I'm with you. Somehow I had it in my head that it was the outer sheath that had a kink in it.

I understand perfectly now, the centre is kinked at the end of the sheath in the position it happened to be in when it was forced against the pressure of the fan...

Apart from somehow extending the effective sheath length after straightening the kink I can't see any easy fix for that...as you say, straightening the kink alone will leave it delicate and prone to kinking again.

[Xaccers]

If you could fit a secured block of some kind in the area between the blue arrows, that would stop the cable kinking too much until the kinked part enters the sheath.

[Mandrake]

If you could fit a secured block of some kind in the area between the blue arrows, that would stop the cable kinking too much until the kinked part enters the sheath.

Like a block of teflon with a hole drilled through it ? Of course the block would have to be in two parts later clamped together to allow the cable to be inserted...

I wonder if the clip that holds the sheath (circled in red) has broken or come off on mine ? It feels like there is too much movement (albeit springy) if there was a kink pushing hard up against the sheath.

However if the sheath was not being held still the entire sheath may be being pushed back and forth with the control hence the springy feel.

[VertVega]

You must keep in mind that clip holds the sheath and the steel threaded cable moves in and out.
There should not be additional shield around the bare part.

[Xaccers]

If you could fit a secured block of some kind in the area between the blue arrows, that would stop the cable kinking too much until the kinked part enters the sheath.

Like a block of teflon with a hole drilled through it ? Of course the block would have to be in two parts later clamped together to allow the cable to be inserted...

Wouldn't even have to be as complicated as having the cable go through it, just something to the left of the cable in that area so when it tries to kink it isn't able to bend too far.

[Chris570]

On my Activa I just twisted the cable the other way round so that the kink was the wrong way, this allowed it to work properly as it always wanted to kink against the bend if that makes sense

[Mandrake]

On my Activa I just twisted the cable the other way round so that the kink was the wrong way, this allowed it to work properly as it always wanted to kink against the bend if that makes sense

Sounds like my plan of action then is to pull out the control box, flatten the kink as much as possible with some pliers, then refit it in the guide on the gear 180 degrees out.

I should replace the blown bulb behind the air flow direction slider while I'm in there too as I can't see it at all in the dark. Anyone have any hints on the type of bulb and where to get them so I could get some in advance of disassembly ?

[Hell Razor5543]

I cannot remember what the part number was for the bulbs, but I do know that they have a short captive holder (unlike the other bulbs throughout the dashboard). A normal length holder won't fit in the control unit.