Xsara Blower intermittent, elctronic speed control

[mpdevice]

I have read similar posts on the blower issues and would have probably got to the bottom of things by now but it turns out my Manual CD-ROM (as they come from e-bay) doesn't read anymore so I can't re-install the thing and the circuit that I once printed appears not applicable.

Similar to others, the blower comes on at times and goes off as it wishes to. Infrequently. The CCT diagram I have shows a conventional, resistive speed control with a dropper resistor module, the dashboard control and a relay. Then I found the CCT for the aircon version, which I have, and it's similar and it has the resistor ,too.
After removing the glove box and moving connectors around it is clear that the blower has not got two wires as shown but more. I could also not find the resistor module, clearly we have here electronic speed control and when it works that is evident.
Symptoms is that the fan does not work, the recirculation flap servo motor doesn't do a thing and the a/c of course does not work. No clicking is heard either when the recirc button is pressed. (Don't know if there is another relay but I suppose so.) Clearly it is not the blower contacts or brushes here and a whole circuit goes down. Somehow pointing to an engine run relay or perhaps the ignition switch. I checked relay 8048 and that's fine.

Would anybody be able to help and perhaps get me the correct circuit? RPO 08246, 1st gen Xsara Petrol 1.4 (non MPV), a/c,

Thanks for any help


Michael

[citronut]

your fan being intermittent it is probaly either the ignition switch has burnt contacts, or there is a bad/melted connection at the plug going to your speed controller,

looking at MK1 Xsara with AC on service citroen the speed control is the same as all these models

2 document(s) found for BERLINGO
1 document(s) found for SAXO
2 document(s) found for ZX
1 document(s) found for XSARA II
1 document(s) found for BERLINGO (M59)
1 document(s) found for XANTIA
1 document(s) found for XM II
1 document(s) found for AX
1 document(s) found for XM
1 document(s) found for XANTIA II
1 document(s) found for BERLINGO (M59)
1 document(s) found for XSARA

so your's is atatched to the fan base and has alloy cooling fins visible when you have the fan/motor in your hands,

in which case you can just fit new dalington transistors which can be purchased from

http://uk.farnell.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i cant remember the part No. but im sure Sir Jim will be along shortly,

[mpdevice]

OK, thanks for the comprehensive reply. I do suspect the ignition switch as the connector on the fan looks good to me. Looks almost like new and no burnt smell. I just wonder if there is anything else hanging on this circuit that the ignition switch supplies which I haven't noticed failing yet.
Farnell is OK but the blower and transistors are fine, that's quite sure.

Thanks

Michael

[citronut]

my old R reg XANT suffers with intermittent blower fan, and i can kick start it by moving the key/ignition lock/switch slightly,
whilst the engine is running, it does not start straight away but a couple of seconds after moving the switch

[mpdevice]

I've found exactly the same to be true on mine. Bastard poor quality lock. I've removed one from a BXs once, looks like it is a huge pain to replace.
OK, looks like this tread is closed. Thanks to all.

[citronut]

the ignition lock is not that hard to remove on a BX or XANT,

at at least the BX switch is easier to clean the contact than the crap switch in the XANT

[mpdevice]

So, is it easier to replace the lock, or can it be opened and fixed/cleaned?
I remember XM lock I played with once - I don't think one could easily open it without damage and the wires were fixed to it and one needed to cut them off.
So I'd need to crimp on a new set of wires to a new lock if I replace it, right?
Or what would be the best strategy forward?

[citronut]

there is not need to cit the wires in the process of removing the lock/switch, even on an XM,

the problem with the XANT switch is the wiper inside the switch contacts straight against each wire core directly,
so when they get burnt out it burns the wire core ends away,

were as the BX has copper contacts the wiper connects onto, this type can usually be cleaned up, not like the XANT type

[mpdevice]

Well, don't know what it's like but I think I will have a look at it over the weekend. I hope it will not disintegrate into millions of tiny bits and the cylinder pistons and springs jump into all directions...
Pretty hot outside esp. without blower and a/c working.... at least an incentive to get the job done.
Thanks...

[citronut]

i personally would source a replacement new or used switch before dismantling the old one,
especially if you cant have the car layed up

[citronut]

ps.
if you send me the last 8 digits of your chassis/VIN No. i will get you the OE part No.

with this you can then do a goooogly search or aim it at your local motor factors

[mpdevice]

OK, thanks for the offer. Well I went out this evening to attack the problem. Took it all apart. The contacts at first looked burned away but after cleaning them with a good cleaner looked better than expected. I am not sure in what position the closing piece has to be in the fan position but I think it needs to short two adjacent cable contacts. In one of these positions it clearly showed about a 1mm gap and one contact not making. Also the contacts wanted to move slightly. I tried to adjust them as well as I could and then applied a bit of superglue to fix them into position. Bit of a fiddle to get it all back together. Be warned of the springs in the mechanism. Ansyway, to cut a long story short, after the optimisation it still does not work. I am sure that before I took it apart that the fan came on sometimes when moving the key. Couldn't get it to do that anymore.
SO I am starting to doubt my original diagnosis now. To be sure, can someone give me an idea what contacts are to be 12V when the switch is in psn. 0 1 2 3? My switch has 3 brown and three black wires. The adjacent two black ones seem to be normally closed and open when in start position (I believe).
Frustrating job!
With a replacement part, does it come with wires or does one have to crimp them onto the new contacts?
Health and Safety Warning for all who want to try, of course: Disconnect Battery!!!

[citronut]

its been a while since i looked at a switch out of the car, but i think there are coloured markings on each of the wires to determine which wire is which, as most of citroen wiring has,

the old and the new switch have plug connectors at the ends of the cables