Citroen Xantia 2.0l H.d.i. 110 bhp

[stevestix8]

Hi all,

Have been happy with mine lately all seems good and it continues to be a good car.

I have got a problem I am guessing at that someone might be able to help with.

I have been hearing a 'knocking' noise coming from the front left. Is only when driving over speedhumps or pot holes.

I think it is struts or something but am researching now. What is a common problem that would cause this? Any advice on the fix?

Thanks,

Steve

[Stewart(oily)]

I too have the same car with the same problem, it passed the MOT a couple of weeks ago with no advisories so no clues there, I removed the drop link, that was fine, next thing is to dismantle it and replace some bits, I have a front wishbone bush and P bush under the bench, but I need to do the leaky matrix first.

[rory_perrett]

Drop links? They can feel ok and have no perceptible play but still knock on the car

[Chlorate]

ARB drop links or bottom ball joint would be my best guess. Some suspension joint issue in any case.

Alex

[stevestix8]

Hi all,

Thanks for responses. I agree is probably the front left droplink thats gone. I have been researching abit and seems to be a common problem, and as far as I know (full service history from new, and discussions with the garage that maintained it) they are still original drop links which are coming up to 15 yr old now.

I have looked at GSF for parts prices and there seem to be different qualities of drop links. Am I right in thinking the Lemforder make are the best? Even the expensive ones are only about £20.

Does anyone know the process for removal of old drop link and fitting of new? There is not much about it in the Haynes book iv'e got.

Also can I just replace the nearside drop link or do I have to replace both nearside & offside? I am a big beliver in 'if it isn't broken, don't fix it' and I am sure it is only the (passenger) nearside that the clunking noise comes from.

Thanks for any advice,

Steve

[Stewart(oily)]

procedure for replacing droplinks, remove wheel, I generally use a mini grinder and chop the nuts off the old droplink unless they are fresh in which case the rattle gun spins them off, replace droplink and tighten new nuts, very simple, if you try to undo the nuts and counter hold the pin the job becomes a waste of time and a pain.

[citroenxm]

If your not lucky enough to have a rattle gun i use mole grips on the rubber and undo with socket and bar.. but i have the mole grips Over tight to grip well... a brush up with a wire brush to clean as much of rust off the threads is usefull.. however.i think if they are orignal to save all messing around use a grinder..

[rory_perrett]

Replacement of a single drop link is ok.

[Hell Razor5543]

I replaced both drop links on Gracie, as they both looked a bit 'tired'. I felt that, in this case, replacing them both made good sense. When you change it (or both), put a good grease on the threads, to help make it easier to remove them in the future.

[stevestix8]

Ok, thanks for info.

I have had a look around at prices for the drop links and they seem to vary alot.

I have found a set of 2 (both left & right front) for £8.73 on ebay made by Redline?

I have also found the Lemforder make for about £22.00 each.

What is the difference? Can I expect the Redline ones to be ok? What makes the Lemforder ones better and therefore more expensive?

Will order and fit when I have decided if it is worth spending the extra, when I can put 2 new ones on for about £8.00 delivered.

Steve

[rory_perrett]

In this case you generally get what you pay for. The one I bought from GSF for about £22 is still going strong after about 120,000 miles. The RAI one I got from my local factor for £10 lasted about 30,000 miles.

[citroenxm]

I find their life span is also dictated by how crap and pot hole full the surface is.. if your always on smoother say dual carrage way roads their life will be extended.. ive done 100k in mine and only fitted one drop link as most of my driving is now dual carrage way...

[c.morewood]

ive done 100k in mine and only fitted one drop link as most of my driving is now dual carrage way...

Mines a yearly experience, the Lemforder ones from GSF last me about 20k. I grease up the threads and then cover them with a bit of old hose pipe or similar tube.. it makes the removal process really easy.

[citroenxm]

You know.. thats a b l o o d y good idea because we all know how much of a sod they can be to remove..

[Old-Guy]

I grease up the threads and then cover them with a bit of old hose pipe or similar tube.. it makes the removal process really easy.

Now why didn't I think of that?

AS for Lemforder vs other brands. Those on the Green Lady both weent in fairly quick succession in mid to late 2008 (somewhere around the 90,000 mile mark). The first (N/S) was a doddle, the second a right PITA. My experience is that Lemforder are worth the extra cost - the N/S one appeared fairly new but wasn't the same design as either the 'original' or the Lemforder replacement. Beware that Lemforder 508740 comes without nuts, but the ones GSF supplied me with were the wrong size! There's another recent thread on this subject.

The secret to easier removal is to thoroughly wire brush the threads and nuts then spray liberally with a good Penetrating fluid (PlusGas or 3-in-1 Penetrating) and leave to soak, preferably overnight. Make sure the hex key goes as far as possible into the socket of the threaded spigot - once it starts to round out, all is not lost: If the nut undid a turn or two, Molegrip the exposed thread, and tighten the nut back up (more PlusGas) not too tight; hack off the rubber boot (it may be full of grease!), then carefully grind through the neck of the ball joint keeping away from the strut-bracket or ARB. Now you can grip the 'head' of the threaded bit, grind off off the exposed thread and undo the nut. Doesn't take too long even with a dirt cheap (£12) angle-grinder.

If you have to resort to using an angle grinder, be careful where the blast of red hots particles goes (I've seen a windscreen with grinder particles welded into the surface! that's HOT) and DO NOT catch the ARB with the disc - you'll create a weak point to start a subsequent fatigue fracture.