stuck with track rods and track rod ends

[lazza]

HI Forum

I've started the job to change the boots that were missing on my steering track rods and rack-and-pinion protector. I decided to change the track rods and tie rods at the same time. However, I've come a bit stuck on a couple of things:

• I cant seem to get this off without cutting it.... any ideas?:
• The new track rods came with these washer-type things. The old one didnt have anything similar.... should I put them on? where should I put them?

Thanks for any assistance

Larry

[citronut]

this is the N/S track rod and the hardest rack gaiter to fit, no i dont mean the bit in your picy as the is only what you see, very short end cap which has a metal insert at its base/larger end, and is an interference fir were is attache's at it base,

the fin and game is the main gaiter/boot which you need to inbolt the steering ram inside that plastic bag/cover, and slacken the mounting bolt the other/O/S end,

then you need to prize the gaiter over the ram mounting spigot, someone on here i think employed a pair of desert spoons to aid the process

HAVE FUN you will also require loads of

PERCY WHAT SIT

[lazza]

Thanks for that- yes i hadnt thought about how to get the gaiter past the steering ram

What about those washer-type things, do you know if i need to put them on and if so how and where?

and yes, what type of lubricating grease should I add to the rack- I have normal Kraft grease that goes up to 130ºC and Coppaslip anti-seize compound. would either of these do?

[citronut]

the washer with spike is a locking washer for the inner track rod ball joint to the rack shaft,

i would use molybdenum/graphite grease for the rack

[lazza]

Ah thanks so a couple of questions:

1. The 2 previous track rod ball joints to the rack shaft didnt have a locking washer- should I use it anyway?
2. What about the other spacer? should i discard that?

Cheers--

ps have replaced the most difficult boot on the N/S track rod- but then the replacement protector for the inner track rod ball joint (the small rubber protector that i posted a picture of.. which was a real hassle to take off cos it had stuck to the ball joint) broke whilst trying to slide it onto the new track rod. So back to car parts shop tomorrow!

[citronut]

ots been quite some time since doing a track rod on a XANT so cant remember regarding the locking washers,

but the outer rubber cap price and part No. from citroen are

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
0000406621 STRG PROTECTOR 5.71 GBP 6.85 GBP 6.85 GBP

[lazza]

HI, thanks for your reply

As I'm going to replace the track rods and tie-ends i'm not sure how to estimate the tracking. The previous set up had the right track rod had alot less threads visible on beneath the locking nut. Should I copy what was there before, or make them even on both sides?

Any tips on estimating the tracking before taking it to a garage?

Thanks
Larry

[citronut]

i normally only just crack off the track rod end locking nut and mind it is spun back up against the track rod its self,

then unscrew the track rod end out of the track rod, but mind you do not let the lock nut move in the slightest,

then measure from the nut face to the center of the back of the swivel pin housing,

now copy that measurement to the new joint, on screwing it into the track rod again mind the nut does not move,

this should set the tracking roughly back were it started before you dismantled it

[lazza]

HI

Yes i've come to that conclusion. I first tried putting the same number of open threads equal on both sides- but i could tell without the wheels on that it was way out. So I copied the number of threads on the notes I made before dismantling and it looks about right now. The only thing is they are very uneven. The left side has about 8 open threads (from the wheel end up to the locking nut) and the right side only 2 1/2. This is as it was before, but seems a little strange to me.

Last question, and thanks for all your help, is it ok to "fine tune" the alignment with the wheels on the ground? or do i have to jack it up?

Cheers
Larry

[citronut]

it is best to get the tracking set up with tracking gauges

[Jaf]

I used to do tracking at work. If the 2 ends were very different I'd adjust it more centrally. Mind you that involved taking the steering wheel off, way before airbags so was easy!

[lazza]

Great piece of advice on the steering whell! Thanks, now they are more or less even on both sides and able to adjust to perfection . Well lets see what the garage say when they measure my adjustments

Hopefully be on the road again in an hour or so

Cheers
Larry