How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

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citroenxm
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How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by citroenxm »

Over on Club-xm I have been documenting a dismantleing of a rust ridden XM, so the decsision was to make the car a pile of parts for the H reg SED I have..

Ive got, and had for about 3 years a Base Model Manderin D 2.1 Manual XM.. Originally bought for parts, I then thought, Id do it up to sell on... this was after looking under the car to find that the subframe mounting points, thought have had work in the past were not in bad order!

So, tonight I thought, Id have a good prod and make a final decision. But still cant!!

The car: Manderin 2.1 D Base model, NO ABS (was always an option on them), front electric windows both work, drivers needs the guide clip, electric mirrors, work, tidy interior, no rips etc. Duel zone heating, both sides work, blower only works on max.. 168k on it, runs AMAZINGLY sweet, its extreamilly quiet - im very impressed. Starts, but takes a few extra turns before she goes. Not a heater plug issue. A clutch in the not to far past, as its light and nice to use! Spheres are all dead BUT I have a set spare spheres so no problem there. Could do with drivers strut top, passenger one serviceable. Sunroof doesn't work, seats are manual.

Body work. Upper body Bonnet, wings passenger doors all good. No Laquer issues. Drivers door laquer lift, rear drivers door rotton bottom outer skin and laquer lift. Spoiler laquer lift, broken away on drivers side mount.

Lower body. Cills basicly shot, both ends front and rear... Front jacking points bent in.

Pipe work. Suprisingly ALL rather good really. front to back. The rear passenger strut feed pipe is coroded, but would clean up.

Exhaust all complete, surface rust. But not blowing.

Needs 4x tyres.

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So, worthy or spares?? I cant decide.. If spares, then this will do the H reg 2.1 SED Manual up nicely..


Well, the decsision was to make for spares.

Heres the progress so far:

Anyway,

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I WILL be removing the talegate, because the rear heated screen is good.. got the chance to test it earlyer..

A anyway, that doesn't look like a lot done for four and a half hours work... thats because it took and hour and 15 to do THIS:

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Interior nearside plastics removed, above

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Outer dash paneling, steering colum shrouds, which are unbroken too, heater controls, but not the actual panel all off..

Lower under dash panels off too, centre console out, and again pleasently pleased to see the centre arm rest rear two fixing screw mounts are not broken either!

Yes, I, keeping the dash, and im also gonna remove the sunroof casette, it currently doesn't work, but thought it may be a good candidate to try and see what its like and why it doesn;t...


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To:
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Headlining out in one peice too..
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Now suspended ready for the outer things to come away.

Ive still got the heater box, steering colum and pedal box to come out and the gear lever. But I beleve rain is gonna stall play further from tomorrow for rest of the week...

Got the exhaust off with a struggle with one of the exhaust bolts.. so thats out the way, and serviceable too..

next rear subframe.. unfortunally, or maybee fortunally with the descision to break, the front to rear pipes were a bit rotton.. to be expected I guess..

So the close of today..

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Though, I also had a closer look at the drivers strut top too, the upper "Cup" under the bonnet was rather rotton, and I expected to have done a top change..

For you pleasure: (This is a Video, click to see, BUT tell me how do I get it here directly! I use Photobucket)
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And this is the close of today at 4.30pm...

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SO engine bay also stripped of Clutch cable, throttle cable and suspension ECU to car harness, Bonnet release.. wiper assy and brake valve..

Tomorrow, now, its pedal box, or pedals, heater box, gear knob, parking brake equaliser, and I may just attack the rear nearside quarter glass..and windscreen.

bxzx16v
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by bxzx16v »

Looks like you've been busy :wink: .

Mark

Citroenmad
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by Citroenmad »

Excellent work Paul, your certainly get every last thing!

Strut top looks a little ... past it? :lol:

Don't forget to grab the speedo cable if its any good, getting hard to find now :-D

citroenxm
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by citroenxm »

Hello Chris!! Long time no see!!

Ohh the speedo cable NO WAY will i forget! It was steady as a rock on the car, and thats because its NOT even broken at the speedo head, so that will be out, after the heater box is out!

As for strut tops, the Drivers one is Buggered badly, as per video, but the passenger one is still solid and once cleaned up very serviceable!

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CitroJim
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by CitroJim »

Excellent work Paul :-D

Nobody can say that car died in vain....

Those strut tops can be good again. KingAs will make them better :-D

citroenxm
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by citroenxm »

Well, a bit more progress today..

Theres a number of 10mm bolts for the heater box, two at the back in the car, one at the front bottom on the floor, and two in the engine bay for the heater..

Then in the sctuttle, theres also these two that need to come away:

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Then the complete pedal box frame comes out as one AFTER these are all removed..

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Above: The two in the double washer come out for the pedal box, the upper right hole os one of the 10mm bolts that hold the heater box.

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and theres two 10mm each end of the frame inside the car..

Then, disconnect the parking brake cable, and clutch and throttle if still connected and then you can do this:

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and be left with this:

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So, after this, I know know how they are built. Its impossible to get the heater box out of the car with the frame work in place due to the retaining frame. This tells me then that the Heater IS the first thing to go in the car when being built, or at least the pedal box frame and heater. The rest is built around it.

addo
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Post by addo »

Bravo! Some really good tips there.

I can't get over the firewall lining; it shatters here from the black part drying in the heat.

citroenxm
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by citroenxm »

Well, I didn't do much today on the car...

Except:

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UNDAMAGED!

Hell Razor5543
Donor 2021
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

citroenxm wrote:Well, I didn't do much today on the car...

Except:

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UNDAMAGED!
WOW :!: :!: :!: =D> =D> =D>

lexi
Donor 2020
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by lexi »

Nice to be busy and have some space for stuff. Good spares Paul.

citroenxm
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by citroenxm »

Wrong type of busy though lexi.. this doesnt bring any brass in. BUT she is finished and gone now.

I updated my club xm topic but not this one.

Got the other quarter glass out the rear passenger and the bumper and tow bar off.. the remains have gone.

50 quid with some extra bits in it i got on the bridge.

KP
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by KP »

Thats not too bad for a near empty shell though they should really give a bit more for the fact you make their life that much easier!

citroenxm
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by citroenxm »

I tbought 50 quid for a bare shell plus a few sets of worn disks and drums was fine considering the drop in scrap metal prices..

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CitroJim
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by CitroJim »

Better than having to pay them Paul :)

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Diabolical
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Re: How a car REALLY should be dismantled...

Post by Diabolical »

I like your style, a definitive guide to dismantling an XM. Getting rear quarter windows/screen and windscreen out without breaking is a feat in it's self.