Hi all
I'm looking to lower down a subframe in the coming future to gain access to some VERY crusty pipes which have burst and fired waxoyl (ahem.. LHM rather) all within my old 2.1TD's wheelarch. I had a replacement pipe was ready to fit it and it decided to only undo at one end. At the other end is the safety pressure switch which has 4 (thanks citroenxm) very crusty pipes on, and to get them off I'm going to have to lower the subframe and see what reveals itself, essentially.
My question is really, what do I have to be mindful off when lowering the subframe?
I saw this post from citroenxm a couple of years ago:
Dropping subframes off complete are rather simple, and if you drop both front and rears in the cars position, PLUS the pipe work under the car along the floor everything can be left in place on them.... remember to release the height controller lever rods from the height correctors...
However I only want to lower the front subframe, so which pipes and what other things do we need to be careful of?
Thanks
Xantia front subframe
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citroenxm
- Fallen Hero
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Re: Xantia front subframe
Hi Dommo,
A front subframe IS a little more tricky to lower... Theres a lot more going on. You have the steering rack attaching it to the steering colum, then theres the rubber return pipes that come from the height corrector and PAS ram, the front subframe is more ridgid too, and so being that one side WILL NOT lower down on one side on its own...
Sorry thats not what you want to hear, but you may have better access by stripping the LHM tank from above etc..
A front subframe IS a little more tricky to lower... Theres a lot more going on. You have the steering rack attaching it to the steering colum, then theres the rubber return pipes that come from the height corrector and PAS ram, the front subframe is more ridgid too, and so being that one side WILL NOT lower down on one side on its own...
Sorry thats not what you want to hear, but you may have better access by stripping the LHM tank from above etc..
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
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M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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Stewart(oily)
- Posts: 923
- Joined: 07 Oct 2005, 16:31
- x 35
Re: Xantia front subframe
On the BX ones I replaced, the rack and much of the gubbins is bolted from underneath, and stays with the car, surprisingly little buggering about, if you are using kunifer pipes they are pretty flexible, do you know where your pipe begins and ends ?
BXs since 1993 built 1.9 TZD turbo, got a S2 Xantia estate, brilliant car! 2013, Xantia HDI LX 110 2000 new car with 122,000, l C2 HDI Rusty rocket, C3 Picasso HDI new to me.
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NewcastleFalcon
- Posts: 26399
- Joined: 25 Feb 2009, 10:40
- x 7162
Re: Xantia front subframe
Dommo
I recently had to replace a front-rear brake pipe.
It was very difficult tracing the pipe runs because the pipes ran over the top of the rear subframe. I spent couple of happy hours under the car drawing what I saw on bits of card and came up with this.
This is for the rear of a Xantia 1.9TD SX non hydractive

If you can do a similar thing for the front it does help
If you get/borrow the equipment to make a flare you can cut the pipe and install a joiner like this

Personally I would only consider dropping the sub frame to do a brake/suspension pipe as a very last resort.
It was quite straightforward getting the new pipe on at the rear even though it has to be routed over the top of the subframe.
this is the "on-car" flare tool

regards Neil
I recently had to replace a front-rear brake pipe.
It was very difficult tracing the pipe runs because the pipes ran over the top of the rear subframe. I spent couple of happy hours under the car drawing what I saw on bits of card and came up with this.
This is for the rear of a Xantia 1.9TD SX non hydractive

If you can do a similar thing for the front it does help
If you get/borrow the equipment to make a flare you can cut the pipe and install a joiner like this

Personally I would only consider dropping the sub frame to do a brake/suspension pipe as a very last resort.
It was quite straightforward getting the new pipe on at the rear even though it has to be routed over the top of the subframe.
this is the "on-car" flare tool

regards Neil
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