brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

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Robert12
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brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Robert12 »

The time has come to replace the rear discs and pads, reading some posts they seem a pain to do any tips thank you
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by citroenxm »

They are only a pain if the calipers have alloy corrosion behind them and are leaning badly theres a chance of shearing the bolts.. im not 100% certain that if the caliper is straight if it needs to still come off to get the disk off.. my guess is it does.

The bolts im sure have thread lock on the threads for some stupid reason. Might be a good idea to get a couple of bolts as spares incase the scarry happens and one shears...

Sorry if it does sounds scarey but safe then sorry then.
Last edited by citroenxm on 23 Jun 2013, 08:10, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by myglaren »

The callipers can be so badly corroded that they fall to bits while removing the bolts.
It is best to have a set of bolts on hand in case they shear.
I have had to have new callipers on both this car and the estate due to corrosion.

There are some very reasonably priced ones on eBay should you need some.
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Robert12 »

OK thanks, will get some new bolts they do look very corroded. am I right in thinking that the calipers split so one side fits all ,as I can only find left rear listed
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Lighty »

As said, its best to have spare callipers ready, the bolts are unbelievably difficult to remove at any time if they are originals. They are not just locktited, they are fully glued into the callipers, you need a huge bar, a very secure car, and some big muscles. Good luck!
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by dnsey »

At least a week before you intend doing the job, start daily applications of Plusgas or similar, not only to the obvious points, but also to the bolt shafts. The latter can be accessed by carefully drilling away the Loctite from the access holes in the caliper, originally used to apply the Loctite activator (make sure that you clear it right down to the bolt shaft).
Once you start on removal, take Jim's excellent advice previously proffered, and use steady, moderate force on your bar, allowing time for internal stresses to unwind. If a bolt starts to really bind, wind it back in a turn or so before continuing. At every movement of the bolt, inject a little more lubricant into the caliper access holes. Try not to be too alarmed at the loud creak / crack the bolts make at each stage of loosening! Remain patient, and take it slowly, even when they seem to be freeing-up a bit.
As usual with anything like this, alternate loosening between bolts, at least to start with, to equalise the stresses as far as possible.
Take it slowly allow a full day for the job - you probably won't need anything like that time, but it takes the pressure off.
The torque needed initially to start a bolt moving is just a bit more than 'this one's never going to shift' :-D . An engineer's feel for what the bolt's doing is a major asset here.
IMHO, the difficulty is mainly caused not by corrosion-induced distortion (although that doesn't help), but by stiction between the bolt and the 'shell' of Loctite formed within the caliper. Whatever can be done to provide a bit of lubrication here greatly increases the chances of success.
The calipers can indeed be reversed, but only if the bleed nipples haven't seized! If your existing calipers are sound apart from corrosion on the mounting faces, simply swap them over. Remember to use some sort of gasket when refitting, in order to prevent a repeat performance.
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by myglaren »

Robert12 wrote:OK thanks, will get some new bolts they do look very corroded. am I right in thinking that the calipers split so one side fits all ,as I can only find left rear listed
That link is for pairs.
The callipers do split but try and avoid that when removing them if they are reusable.

Remove the pad retaining bolt and cover, lift the pads out and replace the bolt which will keep the two halves together
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Robert12 »

Thanks all for advice ,will order some parts for next weekend will let you now how I get on
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

According to a different post, it could be useful to heat up the bolts to help soften the threadlock. I cannot offer any further advice, as I run a Xantia (I found out about the C5 threadlock problem while researching the calliper problem).
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Peter.N. »

I found out the hard way why they have thread lock on them, shortly after removing and refitting one I had brake fluid pouring out, I didn't use locktite and the bolts came loose and the two halves of the caliper seperated and I had done them up really tight, I reassembled them with locktite and have had no further trouble, but yes, the bolts are tight.

Put a cable tie around the caliper to hold it together.

Peter
Last edited by Peter.N. on 26 Jun 2013, 16:04, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Stewart(oily) »

If dismantling is a pain due to loctite then get hold of a hot air gun and heat the caliper until the loctite melts, blue loctite seems to let go easier than the red stuff.
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by dnsey »

This isn't common or garden threadlock, but a more specialised activated formula.
It will respond to heating, but IME any useful softening takes place critically close to the point where damage to other components can occur.
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Stewart(oily) »

dnsey wrote:This isn't common or garden threadlock, but a more specialised activated formula.
It will respond to heating, but IME any useful softening takes place critically close to the point where damage to other components can occur.
Thats good I have just talked myself into doing some C5 rear brakes :)
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Re: brakes c5 hdi 2.0 estate 2004

Post by Robert12 »

Hi update on my rear brakes had to by 2 new calipers 2 discs & pads and all new bolts and had to use some heat
I see wot you all mean the long bolts could snap if not carefull .when I was under the rear left there's a bump stop any one now how there held on as it looks like its about to leave the car thanks for all the replays
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Post by addo »

The bump stop which is compressed when the suspension fully sinks, or the one which is compressed when the suspension is fully
"up"?
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