Xantia, how do I know when I need new spheres?

[lankytim]

Hi all.

When I bought my Xantia I was told that it probably neefed a couple of spheres replacing, but how do I tell if a sphere is flat or not? I know there is a regular clucking from the accumulator (I think) and the rear sits a little low and takes a while to go up in the morning but thats all I can tell by my untrained eyes. Ride seems to be a little choppy recently too. Is there any test thst can be performed?

Thanks in advance!

[Xaccers]

Slow to rise/not the right height is height corrector linkage related, so get them freed up and well lubed.

You know about the regulator ticking too frequently signalling the accumulator needs replacing. At the rear up behind the spare wheel is the rear accumulator if it's an anti-sink car, known as the anti-sink sphere. Replace that at the same time as the front accumulator just to be sure, there's no definite way of testing it whilst attached to the car. You'll need a 9mm flare spanner and if you search through my posts for 9mm or anti sink you'll see the method I use to swap that sphere.
Corner spheres can be checked with a normal bounce test, if it's a VSX then it should be very soft in soft mode, if it's firm and the electrovalves are working then the front and back hydractive center spheres need replacing.
If it's really firm, then the corner ones are likely to need replacing too.
Only way to be completely certain about any sphere though is to get it on a sphere tester.

[lankytim]

The corners seem to bounce OK, although I think it could be better so the spheres could be past their best. The suspension does go up and down to the full extent but when in the "drive" position the rear seems to be slightly low, although I don't actually know how high it's suppost to be.

When left overnight the rear tends to sag a little and can take 30 seconds after starting to get the the correct level, also when performing "Citroebics" the rear can get stuck in the lowest position and only rises when the highest position is selected.

So, the accumulator spheres deffo need replacing, where is the best place to buy them? Is it worth getting them regassed?

[Old-Guy]

The symptoms you describe are down to sticking height corrector mechanisms. It's normal for the suspension to take a little while to come back up to height. More telling is how quickly the STOP lamp goes out - even with a new accumulator sphere it'll take 5-10 seconds to go out.

[lankytim]

I'd say it takes about 5-10 seconds for the STOP lamp to go out, It doesn't stay on for long anyway.

I have found a company in Manchester called Westroen who will fit regassed spheres for £150 all in, guaranteed for 3 years. Is this service any good? It seems like good value to me and would be good for piece of mind.

[Hell Razor5543]

Based on what I have read (but not having experience of re-gassing), the only problem is if the dampening parts have failed. I am sure an expert will give further advice.

[SwissSPEC]

I've bought a few spheres from Westroen & not had any problems, they'll even fit them for free if you visit them. They only re-gas genuine citroen spheres & they check the diaphram for damage, so only re-gas ones in good nick. Very knowlegeable as well

[addo]

Three years might be stretching it for a sphere, if the car is used frequently. I'd certainly test them after two.

[lankytim]

Well, the corners pass the "bounce" test. Maybe I just need the two centre spheres....

[Peter.N.]

A rough guide for good spheres is about 4-6" of movement on the rear and 3-4" at the front unless you push it very hard.

Peter

[lankytim]

That sounds about right, although I am virtually sitting on the corners!

[addo]

Seriously, pressure test them or assume they are knackered. The "feel" measurements cited above experience to understand what it should be like, or they are not worth a lot.

[longgo]

If the car has Hydroactive suspension, broken suspension sphere will still be covered from hydroactive one. Also with the years, that link-clamp attached to stabilisation rod and heigh corrector via plastic rod get weak because of the rust and car noral level get bad. Check to be sure