steering rod creaking noise

[lazza]

HI forum

I finally got under my car to try to identify where the squeaking/creaking noise was coming from. I'd been hearing this noise for the last few months on the driver's side when steering to the right and especially whilst going over bumps.

I'm pretty sure it's coming from the steering rod as in the picture (the rod on the left). The ball joint has lost its protector, so maybe that is a contributing factor. However the noise seems to actually come from inside the rod itself or the metal of the rod itself.

• Could it be that the metal rod is slightly deformed and hence the metal creaks when the steering rack and pinion move??
• Is this part easy to replace?- it looks like it comes in one unit with the rack and pinion.

Any advice much appreciated

Cheers

[CitroJim]

You need to get that cleaned up and re-booted as soon as possible Larry. Otherwise your rack is going to wear very badly...

It's a bit of a fun job... Somewhere between manhandling an eel and putting a baby into a babygro

I don't know about the creaks. My Activa does it and always has. I've never nailed it down so if you do, let me know

[Peter.N.]

With the boot missing I suspect it is devoid of grease, so it will creak.

Peter

[lazza]

Thanks guys for the replies

So err.. has anyone got any step by step guide on how to change the rod? ... or at least replace the boot?

Cheers

[CitroJim]

The boot (gaiter) is easy Larry. Just remove the track rod end and slide it on and secure the large end with the supplied tie..

Replacing the rod is a bit of a game. You need to grip hold of the ball end with a suitable tool and unscrew... Sounds easy but access is the problem.

A picture or two to show the job:





This shows the opposite side but the game is similar for the other side.

Note that in the above pictures the car has been removed for clarity...

[lazza]

Ok- so if I understand correctly:

1. I take off the ball joint connecting the track rod to the wheel?
2. I then unscrew the other end connected to the rack and pinion?

Should there also be a protector for the actual rack and pinion entrance?- both sides are bare

Thanks
Larry

[Chlorate]

Yes, interesting that it doesn't have them...How long has it been like that?

[addo]

It's well possible the creaking comes from the rear wishbone mounts. They need to be really tight.

[taffy]

:
It's a bit of a fun job... Somewhere between manhandling an eel and putting a baby into a babygro


Lmao

[addo]

You should try putting a mature eel in a Baby-Gro!

[lazza]

It looks like the creaking has subsided somewhat since I added grease to the track rod ball joint. So I think i'll just try replacing the gaiter along with a dosing of grease and see if that cures the problem

I havent quite understood though-- is it possible to remove the track rod, without removing the ball joint at the wheel? does it simply unscrew out?

[jgra1]

... i dont think so Lazza..
but.. instead of spliting the joint between track rod and hub.. unscrew the track rod from track rod end first.. carefully.. keeping the locking nut exactly where it was..

then you can unscrew the track rod from the rack.. (using pliers like Jim has to get her moving - or similar)

then throw the alligater on and that will be eely good

my head hurts but I think thats right

John

but


looking at Jims pics again, the track rod will happily undo, without disturbing the outer joint.. this is because the bit thats screwed into the rack can turn independantly of the track rod.. so.. you get that inner ball joint turning with pliers, and can just unscrew it - the wheel will move out - gaiter on and screw back in - and then grease and secure gaiter..

[Mandrake]

Yes, you can separate the track rod from the outer track rod ball joint on the hub by loosening the lock nut then rotating the track rod using the wheel alignment adjustment hex - it will turn freely at the rack end and unscrew from the track rod end.

However:

(a) Be prepared to use a blow torch to heat the threaded joint as chances are that it will be rusted solid and won't give - one of mine came off without heat but the other was very difficult and required lots of heat and persuasion.

(b) The hex on the track rod is probably rusty so putting enough torque onto it without rounding off the rusty hex can be difficult.

(c) The wheel alignment WILL need to be re-done properly afterwards, just setting it back to visually the right number of threads visible is not nearly accurate enough.

(d) If the thread on the track rod end is very rusty you might have a hard time getting it to go back into the track rod, while a new rust free track rod end will go in easily, so you might end up replacing the track rod end anyway. (They're not expensive though, and not really that difficult to separate from the hub)

If the new boot could stretch over the track rod end ball joint IMO it would be easier to disconnect the track rod end from the hub as its both physically easier, and also won't upset the wheel alignment adjustment, however I doubt the boot would stretch over it.

[jgra1]

ignore me

[Mandrake]

What I meant is at the rack end you have a ball joint that is free to turn around and around as much as it likes.... there is a threaded rod on the other half of the inner ball joint that is screwed in tight to the rack, but because of the ball joint you can turn the centre section of track rod as much as you like while adjusting the thread between the outer joint and the track rod.

I've never replaced an inner boot on a steering rack so I don't know if you can do it by separating the track rod at the rack end by unscrewing the ball joint out of the rack. From what Jim shows in the pictures further up the page it looks like that method could be very difficult on the car due to lack of access.