C5 - Self Service

[Ben82]

Well I won't be doing a service just yet (probably not until around August time), but before then I probably only have 3 visits to the UK (4 at most), so if I need to bring anything (tools or parts) back with me, I have ample opportunity if I plan now.

My C5 has over 122,000km on the clock, so by august time, I'm guessing it'll be around 128K, so approaching the 80,000miles mark.

I want to try to at least do most things myself, and am going to go with the assumption that if it wasn't done on the last service, then it hasn't been done at all.
The things that were said to have been done on the last service were:
Timing Belt, Oil change + oil filter, air filter, spark plugs. (There maybe more but don't have the invoice in front of me).

The last known service before that was on 2010, which I have no details of what was done.

So the things I'm planning on doing this time around are:
- Oil change + Filter
- Airfilter
- Cabin Filter
- ATF change (it seems Mobil LT 71141 is a bit like gold dust over here, and where I can find it, it costs just over £20 per 1l bottle - and since the 4HP20 is "sealed for life" I'm not sure if anyone really does it over here, so would feel more comfortable knowing it's had a change)
- Brake Fluid change (again not sure if this has been done recently, seems rather easy to do from ETCG's video on the subject).
- Coolant Change - this is debatable as a few weeks ago she had the warning come up about it being too low, and took it to the garage, and they topped her up with a lot!! (level has been fine since) But I'm not sure which type they use, so maybe worth me flushing it out, and starting afresh.
- LDS Fluid Check - not sure if this is something I should completely replace?
- Proper clean of the negative battery clamp, it's not in the best condition, so probably a good thing to do when it is warm outside.

Other things I've thought about doing too:
- I did consider a MAF clean, but I don't believe the ES9J4S has one (despite finding some places that sell one for it, but it's the same as the diesel ones).
- Ignition Coils, bit annoying that when they did the spark plug changes last year they didn't go for the ignition coils too, especially for the back ones, I think for now I'll leave this alone.

Anything else anyone can think of that I should do?

Equipment, currently I have the following, will I need anything else for doing any of the above?
- Ramps
- 2 Axle Stands
- Socket and screwdriver sets
- Oil filter wrench

Extra equipment needed:
- ~5l measuring jug
- Some kind of Funnel for the LT71141
- 2 more axle stands (possibly)
- Waste Oil collector thingy (~£10.50 from biltema here)

Possible suppliers:

Need ~5l of LT71141, and ~6l of Oil (note using Mobil 1 New Life here as a comparison, isn't to say, I'll choose something else).
Link to Google Doc with pricing.

Thanks

Ben

[myglaren]

You should also include a check of your brake discs and pads. If replacing the front pads is called for then a rewind tool would make your life a lot easier.
In addition to that, the rear callipers of the C5 brakes are prone to differential metal corrosion on the mating surface where they are mounted to the trailing arms.
This forces the upper edge out so they don't sit parallel to the disk and wears the pads in a wedge-shape and in extreme cases prevents fitting of the spare wheel as it has a slightly different profile to the road wheels.
There are threads concerning their refurbishment on the forum but where corrosion is severe then they generally break on removal and replacement callipers are called for.
Check them in advance and give yourself time to source replacements. There are some available on eBay but the guy who did mine screwed up the timing and had to buy from a factor at twice the price but still less than the dealer.

[Hell Razor5543]

Barring the fact that the vehicles concerned are Xantias, this link covers the caliper corrosion issue;

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... =3&t=38467" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You will probably also need a blowtorch, because (as CitroJim mentions) the bolts will probably have Loctite on them.

[Ben82]

Whoops, forgot, front pads were changed a few months back Should be able to check the rear calipers for corrosion when I get to put the summer tyres on around the end of this month, thanks.

Thanks for the link James.

[Hell Razor5543]

You are welcome Ben.

When you look at the disks/calipers, look at them from above. What you want to see is something like this; -] with the - being the disk, and the ] being the caliper. What you don't want is -/, with - being the disk and / being the caliper.

Good luck.

[myglaren]

If in doubt, remove a pad and see if it is straight or worn into a wedge-shape.

[Ben82]

Very handy picture Steve, thanks

Have updated my original post with some costs of LT71141 and Oil, will help me keep track of which suppliers work out the best for which bits I need.

[Ben82]

Have now moved pricing into a Google Doc, and added pricing for filters plus other oils.

For the oil that is in there, I don't believe it is 0W40, as prices for even 208l barrels and taking a chunk out for 5.25l is still a lot more expensive than what they charged me. Most likely it's the Super 3000 5W-40, as that works out not too much under what they charged me for 5.25l, when using 208L or 20L barrels (from Sweden of course).

I've read that the Mahle filters are a similar quality to Mann Filters, has anyone here had any experience with the Mahle filters? Am undecided whether to get a K&N FIlter, sounds like it should mean better MPG, but not sure whether I'll get a true Return of Investment if I do.
Speaking of which, I should probably try to find some replacement screws for the airbox... 1 is missing, and the other 3 are well and truly rusted.

Anyone think of anything else I should do?