suspension
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shug
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 07 Oct 2003, 21:56
suspension
i have a 95 xantia dimension 1.8 16v but the thing is bouncin all over the place have done citaerobics and car goes up and down ok at the front but very spongey at front also. the rear doesnt appear to move in any position any help would be appreciated [:)]
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Homer
- Posts: 1503
- Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
- x 16
Sounds like you have two problems.
The rear end not moving is most likely due to the height corrector linkage being siezed or the plastic link breaking/ popping off.
The bouncy ride is probably due to duff spheres.
Test the rear by sitting on the boot sill with the engine running, it should drop then after a few seconds come back up. When you get off it should rise then after a few seconds lower to normal.
Test the front by pressing down on each wing (again with engine running) there should be some bounce at both sides.
The rear end not moving is most likely due to the height corrector linkage being siezed or the plastic link breaking/ popping off.
The bouncy ride is probably due to duff spheres.
Test the rear by sitting on the boot sill with the engine running, it should drop then after a few seconds come back up. When you get off it should rise then after a few seconds lower to normal.
Test the front by pressing down on each wing (again with engine running) there should be some bounce at both sides.
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shug
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Homer
- Posts: 1503
- Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
- x 16
What you are looking for is exactly the opposite to what you would look for when testing the shockers (dampers) on a normal car.
If it bounces then it is OK (in fact it may seem too bouncy and jellylike if you are used to conventional springs/dampers), if it is rock solid then the spheres need doing (in pairs) before you bounce into a hedge somewhere. (been there [B)], well not actually into the hedge but had a hairy moment)
If it bounces then it is OK (in fact it may seem too bouncy and jellylike if you are used to conventional springs/dampers), if it is rock solid then the spheres need doing (in pairs) before you bounce into a hedge somewhere. (been there [B)], well not actually into the hedge but had a hairy moment)
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shug
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mbunting
- Posts: 712
- Joined: 21 Dec 2001, 15:19
Yes, you must change them with thier opposing partner ( eg. both fronts or both rears ), and the procedure differs according to the presence of anti-sink spheres, which I think you may have given the age of your car.
Have a look in the forum search, there have been many topics covering this procedure, and generally it shouldn't take you more than 30 mins to change both sides. I don't know anyone who can replace springs and shocks on a boring car that quick, do you ?
Mat.
Have a look in the forum search, there have been many topics covering this procedure, and generally it shouldn't take you more than 30 mins to change both sides. I don't know anyone who can replace springs and shocks on a boring car that quick, do you ?
Mat.
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shug
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 07 Oct 2003, 21:56
replaced front spheres and boing is gone thanks for a brilliant forum
onto next task which is to replace steering gaiter. Motor due mot shortly will keep going till i crack the repairs thanks for any help
and by the way the back is going up and down also cooling fan appears too run when car vacated temp gauge reads below 80c is this another problem lurking ?
onto next task which is to replace steering gaiter. Motor due mot shortly will keep going till i crack the repairs thanks for any help
and by the way the back is going up and down also cooling fan appears too run when car vacated temp gauge reads below 80c is this another problem lurking ?
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Homer
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shug
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shug
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 07 Oct 2003, 21:56
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Homer
- Posts: 1503
- Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
- x 16
If it isn't moving at all then it is either the height corrector or linkage. The linkage is well known for sticking and there is a plastic link that commonly breaks or pops off.
If it is down on the bumpstops then you may be able to get it to stay up by jacking it up and then removing the jacks. As a temporary measure obviously.
Don't use the rear lashing eyes (big loops behind bumper) to jack it up, they are not strong enough and will bend under the weight of the car. [B)]
If it is down on the bumpstops then you may be able to get it to stay up by jacking it up and then removing the jacks. As a temporary measure obviously.
Don't use the rear lashing eyes (big loops behind bumper) to jack it up, they are not strong enough and will bend under the weight of the car. [B)]
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shug
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shug
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Kowalski
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- Joined: 15 Oct 2003, 17:41
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Homer</i>
Don't use the rear lashing eyes (big loops behind bumper) to jack it up, they are not strong enough and will bend under the weight of the car. [B)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Apparently you can get a special bar that fits inside both of these eyes so that you can jack the centre rear of the car using the bar.
I haven't actually seen such a bar but I'm told that they exist.
Don't use the rear lashing eyes (big loops behind bumper) to jack it up, they are not strong enough and will bend under the weight of the car. [B)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Apparently you can get a special bar that fits inside both of these eyes so that you can jack the centre rear of the car using the bar.
I haven't actually seen such a bar but I'm told that they exist.
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shug
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 07 Oct 2003, 21:56