Xantia Hdi Engine Temp

[gadgetgricey]

Aware the engines are very thermal efficient, hence why I want to get the Eberspacher thingy working, however what temp should the car get to? Just wondered if I have a faulty thermostat.

Temp does not seem to go above 75 degrees, ie does even not reach half way, normally about a third of the way up.

Cheers

- Dave -

[Mandrake]

Normal would be about 85-90 degrees. If its not getting that high the thermostat is probably not closing properly. Time for a new thermostat!

[Northern_Mike]

I'm not sure the gauges are wholly accurate. Even in the heat of summer, stuck in traffic, with the aircon on, I never saw Rattiva's get to halfway - this was after it had been sorted by Jim, so it was all working as it should.

[CitroJim]

With the weather as cool as it is at the moment you'll find it'll take around six or seven miles of fairly brisk driving even before the thermostat opens. They do run very cool and this is quite normal.

Do the test of the thermostat though. Check the top hose suddenly gets hot rather than warming gradually. If it warms gradually that means the 'stat is stuck open and if that's the case the cooling system will never warm in the winter and totally defeat any attempts by the Eberspacher to heat the thing up too...

[gadgetgricey]

I think I might just chuck a new thermostat in for piece of mind, goes off to check Haynes for reassurance.

Thanks all.

- Dave -

[CitroJim]

It's an easy job on an HDi Dave but take great care in bleeding as the Eberspacher can be a source of air locks if you're not careful...

[RichardW]

The stats do seem to go baggy after a while. It should run at just a smidge under 90 when warmed up. I fitted a new stat to mine when I changed the cam belt 2 years ago, but that (a QH one) has also gone baggy and running temp has dropped back to 75 ish. Got another one to fit - in amongst all the other jobs. Shouldn't need too much bleeding if you don't do a full drain - I think if you raise the OS of the car, you will be able to get the tank above the stat housing and a static bleed will be enough. Think you need to take the air pipes off the top of the engine, then there are 3 allen screws on the top of the housing and the stat lifts out. A lot easier than a 2.1TD where they put it on the pump inlet on the back of the block

[gadgetgricey]

Well got the stat, and hope to change it tomorrow providing iots not snowing too much. (If only I had a garage)

What's the best way to bleed the system afterwards. Was planning to just run the engine with the expansion lid off and just give the pipes a good squeeze here and there.

Sorry if that sounds really basic, but worked in that past.

- Dave -