BX TD Driveshaft Gaiter

Rob Marshall · Unread post by **Rob Marshall** » 03 Oct 2003, 15:37

Have got to change the driver's side driveshaft gaiter on my TD BX.
So far I can establish it is loosening the driveshaft nut, dropping the lower ball joint pulling outer dend of driveshaft from hub; remove remains of old gaiter, and tap outer end of driveshaft while its still on the car with a copper hammer, which will release the outer CV from the shaft. Grease everything with the correct CV grease, reassemble, drive away.
Is this correct or am I disallusioned????
ROB

BonceChops · Unread post by **BonceChops** » 03 Oct 2003, 15:59

A few years ago I needed to change the cv boot on a Pug 305. I ended up using one of the split glue together type. YUK I hear you all say but it was superb. The joint faces were like a tongue and groove. You cut the big and small ends to size and glued it together around the driveshaft. I was not convinced so i glued the piece I cut of the big end together and then tried to pull it apart - it ripped not on the joint! I would use them again on the strength of my experiance. You have to keep the rubber boot spotless where you glue it - thats the hard part [:)]. o not try the ones with big flaps you glue together they are really rubbish - I have tried one.
Neil

Rob Marshall · Unread post by **Rob Marshall** » 03 Oct 2003, 16:11

I fitted one of these slit glue boots in Februray, and it is starting to fall apart, hense my reasons to fit a "proper" gaiter and not having to bother again!
ROB

andycarter · Unread post by **andycarter** » 03 Oct 2003, 17:35

I came to the same conclusion, i.e. that split boots are a bad idea.
-> They cost more than a proper boot.
-> Trying to get the thing glued together in the right place and spotlessly clean in an area renowned for grease and road crud where access is limited is surely a recipe for frustration.
Overall I don't think you save much time and besides, I like the opportunity to clean and inspect everything properly whilst you've got it all in bits.
Andy

bxbodger · Unread post by **bxbodger** » 03 Oct 2003, 17:36

The split gaiters do work, and work very well, but you do have to make sure you follow the instructions on the kit to the letter, and have clean hands and are careful while you do the job; get any grease on the joint and the glue won't stick. Get it right and you will not be able to tear the joint apart. I have had one of these on my bx for nearly three years now with no bother at m.o.t. time.
Apart from the cleanliness problem, the only other problem is that if you cut the joint too short it will come off; cut it one section before what they recommend on the kit and trial fit it before gluing; the c.v. joints on a hydraulic citroen have a higher range of potential movement than a mcpherson sprung car and I don't think that c.v. joint kit makers take this into account when they give the cutting point in the instructions.

andycarter · Unread post by **andycarter** » 03 Oct 2003, 17:49

As you say, the joints do work when glued properly which I'm not contesting - its just that it seems to be such a pain-in-the-arse to get it right that surely it doesn't in fact save any time (?)

bxbodger · Unread post by **bxbodger** » 03 Oct 2003, 17:50

Forgot to mention on above post, that I only stuck the thing on the night before the M.O.T. upon finding a split in the boot-I have to use my car every day and dont always have the luxury of time, and I never actually expected the split-kit to last so long; I bought the proper one the following week and its still sitting in its box in the garage.

Simon Canfer · Unread post by **Simon Canfer** » 03 Oct 2003, 17:57

In my experience, you might as well save yourself a lot of hassle and buy a recon driveshaft.
Simon Canfer

bxbodger · Unread post by **bxbodger** » 03 Oct 2003, 18:04

not exactly cost effective though..........

pete woods · Unread post by **pete woods** » 03 Oct 2003, 18:41

Try This when fitting the glue type together.
Cut off the remains of the old boot
Wrap a sheet of cling film around the joint & 6" of the shaft.
Go & lean all the grease off your hands
Open the box & fit the boot. ALWAYS cut it a bit long.
Once the glu has gone off remove the cling film. Fill with grease & off you go. Works like a charm, takes 15 mins. & lasts at least a couple of years (In my experience at least)

BonceChops · Unread post by **BonceChops** » 03 Oct 2003, 23:08

The hard bit is glueing the joint at the driveshaft end without glueing your fingers to the boot or together [:)]