Just joined up. Have got a 1992 TZD TD BX estate. 81,000 miles.
Just want to know if the Turbos are prone to trouble at all.
Also what oil should I put in it. Currently using plain Castrol GTD for diesels. Have previously used Comma Semi Synthetic 10W40.
I change the oil & filter (purflux) every 5,000 miles. Is this correct. What are your findings?
Diesel Turbos
-
louis1
- Posts: 132
- Joined: 30 Nov 2002, 04:56
-
Jonesy
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 23 Nov 2002, 21:17
Welcome Rob,
Sounds like you have a good BX there, low mileage. Does it have service history?
Turbo's are generally extremely reliable these days, especially on diesels. I personally would change the oil more frequently than 5,000 and possibly use a better oil.
I always use Millers XFE (semi-synthetic) and Purflux filters and I have various PSA diesels, the BX having done 150,000 miles and still runs absolutely fine. The only snag is that Millers may be difficult to source depending on where you live.
Sounds like you have a good BX there, low mileage. Does it have service history?
Turbo's are generally extremely reliable these days, especially on diesels. I personally would change the oil more frequently than 5,000 and possibly use a better oil.
I always use Millers XFE (semi-synthetic) and Purflux filters and I have various PSA diesels, the BX having done 150,000 miles and still runs absolutely fine. The only snag is that Millers may be difficult to source depending on where you live.
-
Rob Marshall
- Posts: 127
- Joined: 02 Oct 2003, 22:40
OK, here's the life story: (deep breath.....)
I specifically wanted a Citroen after my mate impressed me with the performace & comfort of his TRD BX Turbo estate and his TRi Estate. How we used to annoy Merc Drivers in those! As my hobby is restoring and driving Triumph Dolomites & Toledos (no comments please - anyone want to buy a lovely ice blue 1500TC? No I thought not!), I was faced with having to buy a modern car for University; so I bought a £50 GSA; my defense to the parents that although it was old, it was up to date in so many ways. Also LHM is so much nicer to work with than brfake fluid! The GSA was sold to an enthusiast 3 years and 25,000 miles later when I left university. It is still owned by a loving owner; something I am overjoyed about.
I now found myself in the big wide world. I now had to face facts and get a modern hack. No way was I going to waste my cash on a car that was too new: a BX Turbo Diesel Estate it had to be, and a good one. I did not want a standard diesel because of the horrible tweed seats and the adequate performace. I wanted a car that could blow Novas into the weeds if I wanted and yet be big enough to let me carry car spares and / or move house, as I was certain my Parents would throw me out! I set myself a budget of £1500 including purchase and repairs to get the thing into tip top condition. I wanted a diesel estate, but I found so did everyone else!
I finally found the object of my desires. A low mileage J reg TD estate. OK it was red and didn't have ABS but these were minor disappointments. It had been bought by a garage from a main dealer, and was a 2 owner, 68,000 miler, with old MoTees. Unfortunately, an employee took it for a thrash and crashed it into a council truck...six years ago. Did I mention the bald tyres and hydraulic leak?
£500 offer was made and accepted; especially as I knew an identical car was in the local scrappers. The deal was that they get the hydraulics working and bolt on the new panels. Fortunately the outer wing and bumpers were already off, proving there was no inner wing damage. I paid my money, arranged insurance and with a bit of fettling, drove the car to my nearest Citroen specialist. SHOCK, HORROR- why not do the work myself? Well, I was working at the time and was happy to spend my budget on sorting this red devil out, especially as the hydraulics had sprung a dramatic leak again.
My mates old TRD turbo had been retired due to an Octopus leak and a dead Turbo. It was going to the scrappers; but I gave him £100 for it was to be my donor car. £100 on a scrap BX? was I mad? Well yes I was (am?) mad, but this car had a BRAND NEW cylinder head, front struts and three new Michelin tyres; plus all other useful bits and bats for my car. It was stripped out at my mate's home, then was disposed of to be turned into a C5, a fridge or something less cool.
Back to my car. Bits fitted are: Timing belt, all rubber return pipes (including the dreaded Octopus!), tyres from donor car; plus a full service. Later this year it got treated to new rear arm bearings and rear spheres, fitted by yours truly, which really has transformed the car. It has just had a full underseal and waxoyl before the winter sets in. New pads and discs will shortly be fitted, and I am now up to the budget.
I have taken care to fit a few little things, like new bulbs behind the heater controls, and a few in the dash, oh and a 10 disc CD player & head unit. It is fun to drive and I get 45MPG out of the thing. It keeps up with Peug 306 TD's.
I am trying to scrape a career in television, so the BX was very useful in carrying cameras around. It even has been used on camera for a stint for "Used Car Heaven", shortly to be aired on "Men and Motors".
So, up to date. It now has covered 81,000 miles. I intend to keep this car for a long time, until it becomes uneconomical to repair, then I hope to pass it on for nought to a Citroen enthusiast. It is worth vertually nothing now, and is too useful for me to get rid of. That doesn't mean I abuse it too much, it just has to be used. I don't thrash it when it's cold, and it always get left to tick over for 20 secs before switching off. If it has a long run on a motorway, it it allowed to idle for five minutes before switching off. I also have kept up on the service history.
So if you are still awake, that is my Citroen story. I am just looking for advice on two things:
1. Turbo longeivity. I think mine has a KKK Turbo, but it has the Lucas injection pump.
2. Oil quality. As I mentioned I have used Comma Semi-Synthetic oil. I have just used standard Castrol GTD, and topped it up with Castrol GTD Maganatec as I have just had to do some long motorway runs.
3. Also, how regular should changes be on average. I tend to do it every 5,000 miles instead of 6,000.
What are your opinions?
ROB
I specifically wanted a Citroen after my mate impressed me with the performace & comfort of his TRD BX Turbo estate and his TRi Estate. How we used to annoy Merc Drivers in those! As my hobby is restoring and driving Triumph Dolomites & Toledos (no comments please - anyone want to buy a lovely ice blue 1500TC? No I thought not!), I was faced with having to buy a modern car for University; so I bought a £50 GSA; my defense to the parents that although it was old, it was up to date in so many ways. Also LHM is so much nicer to work with than brfake fluid! The GSA was sold to an enthusiast 3 years and 25,000 miles later when I left university. It is still owned by a loving owner; something I am overjoyed about.
I now found myself in the big wide world. I now had to face facts and get a modern hack. No way was I going to waste my cash on a car that was too new: a BX Turbo Diesel Estate it had to be, and a good one. I did not want a standard diesel because of the horrible tweed seats and the adequate performace. I wanted a car that could blow Novas into the weeds if I wanted and yet be big enough to let me carry car spares and / or move house, as I was certain my Parents would throw me out! I set myself a budget of £1500 including purchase and repairs to get the thing into tip top condition. I wanted a diesel estate, but I found so did everyone else!
I finally found the object of my desires. A low mileage J reg TD estate. OK it was red and didn't have ABS but these were minor disappointments. It had been bought by a garage from a main dealer, and was a 2 owner, 68,000 miler, with old MoTees. Unfortunately, an employee took it for a thrash and crashed it into a council truck...six years ago. Did I mention the bald tyres and hydraulic leak?
£500 offer was made and accepted; especially as I knew an identical car was in the local scrappers. The deal was that they get the hydraulics working and bolt on the new panels. Fortunately the outer wing and bumpers were already off, proving there was no inner wing damage. I paid my money, arranged insurance and with a bit of fettling, drove the car to my nearest Citroen specialist. SHOCK, HORROR- why not do the work myself? Well, I was working at the time and was happy to spend my budget on sorting this red devil out, especially as the hydraulics had sprung a dramatic leak again.
My mates old TRD turbo had been retired due to an Octopus leak and a dead Turbo. It was going to the scrappers; but I gave him £100 for it was to be my donor car. £100 on a scrap BX? was I mad? Well yes I was (am?) mad, but this car had a BRAND NEW cylinder head, front struts and three new Michelin tyres; plus all other useful bits and bats for my car. It was stripped out at my mate's home, then was disposed of to be turned into a C5, a fridge or something less cool.
Back to my car. Bits fitted are: Timing belt, all rubber return pipes (including the dreaded Octopus!), tyres from donor car; plus a full service. Later this year it got treated to new rear arm bearings and rear spheres, fitted by yours truly, which really has transformed the car. It has just had a full underseal and waxoyl before the winter sets in. New pads and discs will shortly be fitted, and I am now up to the budget.
I have taken care to fit a few little things, like new bulbs behind the heater controls, and a few in the dash, oh and a 10 disc CD player & head unit. It is fun to drive and I get 45MPG out of the thing. It keeps up with Peug 306 TD's.
I am trying to scrape a career in television, so the BX was very useful in carrying cameras around. It even has been used on camera for a stint for "Used Car Heaven", shortly to be aired on "Men and Motors".
So, up to date. It now has covered 81,000 miles. I intend to keep this car for a long time, until it becomes uneconomical to repair, then I hope to pass it on for nought to a Citroen enthusiast. It is worth vertually nothing now, and is too useful for me to get rid of. That doesn't mean I abuse it too much, it just has to be used. I don't thrash it when it's cold, and it always get left to tick over for 20 secs before switching off. If it has a long run on a motorway, it it allowed to idle for five minutes before switching off. I also have kept up on the service history.
So if you are still awake, that is my Citroen story. I am just looking for advice on two things:
1. Turbo longeivity. I think mine has a KKK Turbo, but it has the Lucas injection pump.
2. Oil quality. As I mentioned I have used Comma Semi-Synthetic oil. I have just used standard Castrol GTD, and topped it up with Castrol GTD Maganatec as I have just had to do some long motorway runs.
3. Also, how regular should changes be on average. I tend to do it every 5,000 miles instead of 6,000.
What are your opinions?
ROB
-
JohnD
- (Donor 2022)
- Posts: 2632
- Joined: 14 Mar 2001, 23:41
- x 72
An interesting BX story! I ran a TZD estate from new (1991) till 1998 when I sold it on to another member of this forum. I parted with it at 110K and it now has around 140K on the clock. During its lifetime I never allowed it to go beyond 5000 miles before having an oil and filter change with Miller's XFE semi-syn. Also Miller's dieselclean or Redex Diesel in the tank. By allowing the turbo a few seconds before switching off the engine, there's no reason why the turbo shouldn't last the life of the car. When I parted with the BX the injectors had never been taken out.
-
Jon
Good post.
These engines are just fine on any proper diesel oil or a quality semi synthetic. It goes without saying (to most on this Forum) that a Genuine Citroen (i.e. Purflux) 1109N3 (Purflux LS867) oil filter should be used in order to ensure long life.
In my experience of the BX TD the engine bottom end is very strong, as is the transmission and turbo, be it KKK or Garrett. What tends to give trouble is the cooling system. Radiators either leak or silt up along the bottom causing marginal cooling, and eventually cause head trouble. This is not helped by the lack of a temperature gauge. Also worthy of inspection are the notorious "braided" water pipes down the back of the engine which are a bit of a nightmare to replace, and gradually weaken over time. Its always a good idea to completely drain the coolant and refill with Citroen antigel and deionised water to prevent future problems.
The pumps are generally long lived, as are the injectors.
The fuel filter housing (CAV type) have been known to give problems on the 17TD, and no repair kit is available. Many simply replace with the Purflux C180 cannister type fuel filter and housing as fitted to the BX 19D as the filters are cheap and a repair kit for the housing rubbers and spring is only about a fiver.
[:p][:)]
These engines are just fine on any proper diesel oil or a quality semi synthetic. It goes without saying (to most on this Forum) that a Genuine Citroen (i.e. Purflux) 1109N3 (Purflux LS867) oil filter should be used in order to ensure long life.
In my experience of the BX TD the engine bottom end is very strong, as is the transmission and turbo, be it KKK or Garrett. What tends to give trouble is the cooling system. Radiators either leak or silt up along the bottom causing marginal cooling, and eventually cause head trouble. This is not helped by the lack of a temperature gauge. Also worthy of inspection are the notorious "braided" water pipes down the back of the engine which are a bit of a nightmare to replace, and gradually weaken over time. Its always a good idea to completely drain the coolant and refill with Citroen antigel and deionised water to prevent future problems.
The pumps are generally long lived, as are the injectors.
The fuel filter housing (CAV type) have been known to give problems on the 17TD, and no repair kit is available. Many simply replace with the Purflux C180 cannister type fuel filter and housing as fitted to the BX 19D as the filters are cheap and a repair kit for the housing rubbers and spring is only about a fiver.
[:p][:)]
-
Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- x 2
Yep, have to say interesting post.
My first xantia, a 94 bog standard n/a diesel was treated to a dose of castrol magnatec at its first oil change after I got it, it repayed me by burning the stuff like it was going out of fashion, that was the only time I've ever had a diesel use engine oil and the only time I've had to top up between (5k mile) changes on these engines.
Didn't go down that road again and after switching oils to valvoline turbo diesel it behaved like the other XUD's I'd known and didn't use a drop.
Dave
My first xantia, a 94 bog standard n/a diesel was treated to a dose of castrol magnatec at its first oil change after I got it, it repayed me by burning the stuff like it was going out of fashion, that was the only time I've ever had a diesel use engine oil and the only time I've had to top up between (5k mile) changes on these engines.
Didn't go down that road again and after switching oils to valvoline turbo diesel it behaved like the other XUD's I'd known and didn't use a drop.
Dave
-
Simon Canfer
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 02 Mar 2001, 17:41
Nice one. It was a TD BX that converted me to the diesel engine, back in the 80s.
I'd second Jon's remark about the cooling systems- they do seem to be the weak link. I've replaced a couple of radiators in my ZX TDs over the years. I ripped the last one apart and discovered the problem was corrosion at the bottom of the rad: wait for it: from the OUTSIDE IN!
My hypothesis is that road salt collects there and corrodes the rad. year-rould, whenever it gets damp. So now I hose down the radiaitor when I wash the car!!
It's important to avoid getting air trapped in the cooling system when you change the coolant; use a "header tank" as high as you can get it to flush out those bubbles, and get the engine nice and hot until bubble-free coolant issues from each bleed point. Take your time and its easy but you need some "blue-peter" gear to rig up a header tank!
Nearly forgot: don't worry about the turbo. They last longer than the rest of the car; just do proper servicing on-time and you'll be fine.
Simon Canfer
I'd second Jon's remark about the cooling systems- they do seem to be the weak link. I've replaced a couple of radiators in my ZX TDs over the years. I ripped the last one apart and discovered the problem was corrosion at the bottom of the rad: wait for it: from the OUTSIDE IN!
My hypothesis is that road salt collects there and corrodes the rad. year-rould, whenever it gets damp. So now I hose down the radiaitor when I wash the car!!
It's important to avoid getting air trapped in the cooling system when you change the coolant; use a "header tank" as high as you can get it to flush out those bubbles, and get the engine nice and hot until bubble-free coolant issues from each bleed point. Take your time and its easy but you need some "blue-peter" gear to rig up a header tank!
Nearly forgot: don't worry about the turbo. They last longer than the rest of the car; just do proper servicing on-time and you'll be fine.
Simon Canfer