Well that was the most incredibly frustrating difficult job I've done in a long time!
I was working by myself in a tight single garage with no second pairs of hands or help available of any kind-it took me from around 2-3 this afternoon till 12.45am [:0] And I'm still not done [:(!][B)][:0] I've still got to affix the exhaust properly (tied on at the mo at 12.30am couldn't be arsed to get the rubbers on, too difficult), in fact I may just take it to an exhaust place on monday, spare wheel cradle needs putting back on, boot carpet needs putting back in under the trim after that it may be fully done!
I changed all four rear mounts to try and cure a very very severe banging noise from the rear over any kind of bump, under braking etc. The rear mounts looked fine but I put the new ones on still, obviously, the front mounts were heavily corroded but the rubber didn't look too perished. God DAMN how difficult was it to locate the axle back on the car working by myself with a **** trolley jack, I really didn't think I'd be able to do it at one point but I've managed it-I've never done rear mounts before so that slowed me down a bit. On the offside I never removed the shock absorber (dampener) to get the front mount on, but on the nearside I couldn't release the front mount bolts without removing the bottom shock absorber mount.
It seems to be better now, the car feels more like 'one piece' rather than getting the feeling that it isn't fully together-like scuttle shake on a cabrio or something! I haven't fully checked it out as my exhaust is hanging on by a couple of cable ties and some electrical flex and my boot is full of crap that is rolling around and rattling ie spare wheel, spare wheel cradle etcb ut when it's all sorted I'm hoping handling will be improved.
I ache all over I have only grazed my self a couple of times surprisingly but my elbows, knees and back have taken an absolute pounfing from getting up and down so many times-when I wake up tomorrow my hands will be bruised to hell, I'll have no grip strength etc bloody hell I'm knackered I best get off to bed now.
Guru Meditation
[:)]
Just finished subframe mounts...
Moderator: RichardW
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Jon
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Guru Meditation
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- Joined: 18 Dec 2002, 02:30
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Yeah I'm glad I got it done-I didn't ache as bad as I thought I would in the morning I must be tougher than I thought. I read your story the other week I was praying I didn't strip any threads etc because I didn't really have the facilities on hand to sort it out. All my bolts were soaked in lubricant/rust dissolver and removed with hand tools very slowly.
The time I was really worried was when I was jacked the axle back up to locate the front mounts, the threads kept catching I really thought I was going to damage one of the threads but thankfully I never did.
The time I was really worried was when I was jacked the axle back up to locate the front mounts, the threads kept catching I really thought I was going to damage one of the threads but thankfully I never did.
My son now lives in a somewhat remote part of Spain; he has a BX but the front subframe is bent/broken.
In March I intend to drive out there (with a replacement second-hand subframe) with the intention of fitting this to the car.
What problems am I likely to encounter and what equipment should I take with me ?
In March I intend to drive out there (with a replacement second-hand subframe) with the intention of fitting this to the car.
What problems am I likely to encounter and what equipment should I take with me ?
My son now lives in a somewhat remote part of Spain; he has a BX but the front subframe is bent/broken.
In March I intend to drive out there (with a replacement second-hand subframe) with the intention of fitting this to the car.
What problems am I likely to encounter and what equipment should I take with me ?
In March I intend to drive out there (with a replacement second-hand subframe) with the intention of fitting this to the car.
What problems am I likely to encounter and what equipment should I take with me ?
First of all -
You need time [xx(]
It's not really complicated - as you simply work your way systematically undoing all bits with interference mesh to the subframe.
The general idea is to get the subframe off - with as many bits still attached as possible.
With old subframe off ready to work on - it's a LOT easier to move bits from old to good subframe one by one - ensuring all bits fitted correctly - with any adjustment shims noted during dis-assembly.
The driveaxles does not need to come out - it's a lot easier to free the hubs from drive axles - then leave the lower swivel joint un-touched. The suspension strut is then simply released from the hub clamp instead.
The only snag is always the LHS drive axle - as it's a swine to fall out the diff - gushing out the gearbox oil.
I recommand you drain the gearoil then (from diff plug) - to avoid this messy surprise in the middle of the work.
Special tool :
Large size socket for the hub nut - 3/4" square drive must be loosened with weight on wheels (challenging tight).
You'll likely run into trouble with the hydraulics rigid piping - as it's very narrow workspace down there. Some piping may be on their last by rust - really making for troubles.
Especially the piping around the safety valve & brake valve is a challenge. Being in Spain it must be an LHD car - which happily is not as challenging around the brake valve - as RHD cars are.
You may need a number new pipe seals.
The rubber return hose complex (Octopus) is likely to be rotten in the rubber (road dirt + engine oil spill) - making for the most annoying hose splittings when worked on.
The steering flexible coupling (Hardy disc) may be rotten as well - can be a scaring surprise in daylight.
The droplinks may be worn.
The driveaxle CV gaiters may have split.
The brakes may be in bad shape - in need of overhaul & new wear parts.
The subframe rear mounting bolts are hidden in wells under the carpeting in the footwells. From inside you have the nut, washer and trumpet shape torque bushing. Be UTTERLY careful when removing these bits - as large riscs are they disappear down inside the bodywork - NO chance to get them out (been there - tried it [:(]).
The manual height setting longitudinal connecting rod under car is located in a slide bush fitted on the subframe. You can NOT remove this rod without huge and fiddly work. Instead remove the small longhole bracket engaging the hook link to the height corrector.
THEN - when the subframe is ready to be lowered - slide the whole subframe FORWARDS - to free the connecting rod off the subframe.
REMEMBER this reverse operation - when reassembling the new subframe - or you may get a heart attack out of sheer frustration [:(!]
You need time [xx(]
It's not really complicated - as you simply work your way systematically undoing all bits with interference mesh to the subframe.
The general idea is to get the subframe off - with as many bits still attached as possible.
With old subframe off ready to work on - it's a LOT easier to move bits from old to good subframe one by one - ensuring all bits fitted correctly - with any adjustment shims noted during dis-assembly.
The driveaxles does not need to come out - it's a lot easier to free the hubs from drive axles - then leave the lower swivel joint un-touched. The suspension strut is then simply released from the hub clamp instead.
The only snag is always the LHS drive axle - as it's a swine to fall out the diff - gushing out the gearbox oil.
I recommand you drain the gearoil then (from diff plug) - to avoid this messy surprise in the middle of the work.
Special tool :
Large size socket for the hub nut - 3/4" square drive must be loosened with weight on wheels (challenging tight).
You'll likely run into trouble with the hydraulics rigid piping - as it's very narrow workspace down there. Some piping may be on their last by rust - really making for troubles.
Especially the piping around the safety valve & brake valve is a challenge. Being in Spain it must be an LHD car - which happily is not as challenging around the brake valve - as RHD cars are.
You may need a number new pipe seals.
The rubber return hose complex (Octopus) is likely to be rotten in the rubber (road dirt + engine oil spill) - making for the most annoying hose splittings when worked on.
The steering flexible coupling (Hardy disc) may be rotten as well - can be a scaring surprise in daylight.
The droplinks may be worn.
The driveaxle CV gaiters may have split.
The brakes may be in bad shape - in need of overhaul & new wear parts.
The subframe rear mounting bolts are hidden in wells under the carpeting in the footwells. From inside you have the nut, washer and trumpet shape torque bushing. Be UTTERLY careful when removing these bits - as large riscs are they disappear down inside the bodywork - NO chance to get them out (been there - tried it [:(]).
The manual height setting longitudinal connecting rod under car is located in a slide bush fitted on the subframe. You can NOT remove this rod without huge and fiddly work. Instead remove the small longhole bracket engaging the hook link to the height corrector.
THEN - when the subframe is ready to be lowered - slide the whole subframe FORWARDS - to free the connecting rod off the subframe.
REMEMBER this reverse operation - when reassembling the new subframe - or you may get a heart attack out of sheer frustration [:(!]