xantia hdi110 gearbox

[allanmc]

I am hoping to replace the clutch next week but before we start I would like some information about any pitfalls we might encounter, I know there is a tool required to fit the release bearing I need to know how to make one, can someone help please

allan

[rory_perrett]

When I did the clutch on a 2.1td (same clutch and box) I managed without the special tool, unfortunately I can remember exactly what I did but it did involve a long tie wrap which I used to pull the bearing to click it into position, I then cut the tie wrap so I could pull it out.

Just for a matter of interest what mileage are you on? I keep thinking mine is starting to slip and then it seems fine again. I'm still on the original clutch at nearly 280k miles so surely it must be ready for a change sometime soon.

Rory

[citroenxm]

Im on 226k on my HDi 110 and from what I can see all original... theres no evedance of a clutch change.. However, at 215k I was getting clutch slip then stop then slip again.. then stoped. I now have a Transporter trailer and with a Xantia on the trailer the clutch still doesnt slip....

The HDi 110 box is a bigger brute then the TD BE3 box so theres less room... However, its has it advantages... The slave cylinder needs to come out.. Id then remove BOTH drive shafts, so the first thing is to crack the drive shaft Nuts while the wheels are on the floor.. Get the drive shafts out the way, it helps with box removal and re fitting..

Strip all the area around the box.. on the HDi 110 box theres TWO bolts at the back, one just behind the Sump like the old TD and another further up ! Dont forget it, or else the box will never come off...

Starter off or out the way,
Regulator off the gearbox...
Clear the harness out the way best you can, you will have to work around the LHM Feed and return pipes.
Remove the 10mm nut holding the Suspension feed pipe to the end of the gearbox. Dont forget that or else that will get destroyed while moving the box around...

Use TWO jacks. One under the Sump, the other under the box.. Take the weight of the box, remove the gearbox to chassis mount and spigot off the box and chassis member, gives a tiny bit more room...

Now the trick is I found dooing it alone is to try and keep the box in the visinerty of the engine bay, so remove it off the engine, towards the wheel arch then use the second jack to support the weight and rest on the subframe. Its damm tricky on your own but is possible.. I advise keeping it in the engine bay for a few reasons. Its DAMMM HEAVY! and if it falls to the floor, tricky to get back in on your own...

Move the box away so theres just enough room to work between the clutch and bell house...

Fitting the clutch is in the style of a Push clutch HOWEVER these are a pull clutch design.. But the idea is fit the pressure plate and friction plate to the engine and align it correctly with the align tool, and fit the release bearing to the release arm in the bell house... Then regain your strength and try your best to get the box back on.. HEAVY so not easy alone! I find a bit of Fairy Liquid on the input shaft helps a slide in nicely...

Then once you fiddles and messed about and finally got the box on which is NOT EASY, throught the Starter Hole (as you had removed it) push the release arm TOWARDS the Slave cylinder hole, this then presses the release bearing INTO the pressure plate, it then operates in the opposite way when the slave cylinder presses it!

I made the mistake on my first one of fitting the release bearing to the pressure plate before fitting it to the engine. I then found after the box was on it wouldn't release!!! Hard mistake.... Didn't do it again..

But theres the gist of it all.... Hope that gives you an idea or two...

[allanmc]

Thanks for the information the use of two jacks is good I have been wondering exactly what the best way would be still unsure about the tool for the release bearing I read someplace it was easy to make but I need a picture I have only done 150k and the clutch works fine but when the car is running there is a noise which goes away when I press the clutch so looks like the bearing

[citroenxm]

You DONT need a tool for the release bearing!!!! Once the box is back on the engine, just use a bar or simmilar to push the release arm on its pivot through the starter hole!! VERY simple.. The haynes book does go over the top sometimes!!

Just make sure the release bearing is clipped on the release arm in the bell house before putting the box on!

[allanmc]

Thanks again

[RichardW]

For once, I'm sure Paul is wrong... you need to PULL on the release arm in the bell housing to engage the release bearing, whereas the clutch slave normally pushes it. Haynes no doubt is just a repeat of the Citroen manual, which would have had a special tool. Jim I think did one on an Activa and just used a small ish screwdriver with the end bent over at 90deg, and someone further up the thread used a cable tie or two. Once you have the box off you will be able to see what is required and figure something out.

I applaud Paul for doing it on jacks - I would only try it if I had some sort of overhead lift!

[citroenxm]

Richard.. if you read again Im sure ive said "Push through the starter motors hole" Not the slaves cylinder one....! other wise if you p**s about through the slave cylinder hole you will need to pull the release arm to engage the bearing...

the way i saw it is the starter is already off so before you refit it push the release arm to engage the bearing... then refit the starter... easy...

[RichardW]

perhaps I should read in detail. You are of course right!