Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

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Sam KS
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Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by Sam KS »

G'day all

i went ahead and purchased the 1998 Xantia Hatch I was asking advice on a little earlier. today i did a bunch of easy fixes to get ready for tomorrows road worthy (MOT). thankfully here in QLD they are referred to as phoneworthys as they are normally so easy to get and they'll be it until the next owner.

any how i am now i am in need of advice. i have LHM fluid leaking from the end of the LHR suspension cylinder. would this be the cylinder or the sphere and how do i check? and is it a easy job?
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by CitroJim »

G'Day Sam...

Ahh, sounds like the QLD test is not much different from the NT test then. Not like our MOT at all but then you don't have a load of up their rear ends bureaucrats there, you lucky people.

Right, the problem is most likely the sphere seal. It's so easy with rear cylinders to put the seal on half-cock and in screwing in the sphere it gets damaged, usually a tiny cut.

Pop of the sphere, and renew the seal. Ensure the seal goes into the groove first and sits there securely as you screw the sphere back on. Spheres do not need to be tight. Hand is perfectly good.

The cylinder is alloy and it's not hard for hamfists to cross-thread or otherwise damage the threads and in places like here corrosion can attack the alloy and weaken the seal. hardly an issue in your neck of the woods though...

Good luck with the test [-o<
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Post by addo »

Not that any other Australians might occasionally do their roadworthies over the phone... :wink:
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by Sam KS »

i'll try and shove it on a hoist in a mates workshop tomorrow and give it a clean down and double check where the leak is exactly coming from. do you think the local stealer would keep the seals in stock? do i need to bleed the LHM system when i refill?

also dose it have a drain point? i want to change all the fluids. on that point how about the coolant, dose it need bleeding on these?
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Post by Sam KS »

addo wrote:Not that any other Australians might occasionally do their roadworthies over the phone... :wink:
this'll be the 1st one i have had done in QLD with the car actually there and with a mechanic that i don't all ready know.
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Post by CitroJim »

addo wrote:Not that any other Australians might occasionally do their roadworthies over the phone... :wink:
Perish the thought Adam :)

Now I do trust this isn't going to degenerate into an inter-state argument. I know what you lot from NSW are like...

Still, you have an ex-Territorian to moderate :wink:
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Post by addo »

Remember, I'm barely Australian. :lol:

Re the coolant - very important to bleed. Crucial bleed point 1: the valve cap on the heater hoses - if bypassed crack the jubilee clip and undo one hose from the connector. Bleed point 2: On the thermostat housing, a 5mm head brass allen screw. I can't overemphasise this one. Should be able to get a proper seal from DS Motors.
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by CitroJim »

I'd hope any good stealer will have seals in stock Sam.

No need to bleed as such, just do 'Citrobics' (up and down from high to low and back again a few times) but it is a good idea to bleed the rear brakes as opening up the rear can allow some air in which can get to the brake lines. Air in the rear can lead to a short delay in the brakes going on.

There's no drain point for the LHM. When you remove the rear sphere. be ready for a good glug of LHM to come out. I've a big cat litter tray I put underneath to catch the spillage. It needs to be big as LHM runs along the subframe a bit...

To drain the LHM, easiest is to set on low and then remove the complete reservoir full of fluid...

Coolant Adam's already said what I was going to say... :-D
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Post by Sam KS »

addo wrote:Remember, I'm barely Australian. :lol:

Re the coolant - very important to bleed. Crucial bleed point 1: the valve cap on the heater hoses - if bypassed crack the jubilee clip and undo one hose from the connector. Bleed point 2: On the thermostat housing, a 5mm head brass allen screw. I can't overemphasise this one. Should be able to get a proper seal from DS Motors.
Thanks for the info.

i've been looking for DS Motors, i couldn't remember what he was called and was going to track him down when i am in BrizVagus next. He used to be one of my customers a few years back.
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by Sam KS »

CitroJim wrote:....To drain the LHM, easiest is to set on low and then remove the complete reservoir full of fluid...
thanks for the heads up.

you know my brother in-law (a sweaty living here in SEQ) warned me about getting a Citroen. He said once you get one you'll be hooked on them. only had it for 24h and i can tell i'm going to like it. :-D
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by CitroJim »

Sam KS wrote: He said once you get one you'll be hooked on them.
Spot on! Seven years ago I'd never even heard of a Xantia and then we desperately needed a towcar. That desperately needed towcar was my first and look what's happened since :lol:

There's no cure Sam...
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Post by addo »

Don't touch the reservoir pipes yet!

They get super-brittle in hot countries and you will be swearing for a week as every single piece breaks in turn.

Use an oil change siphon if you must, but seriously get familiar with octopus repair before it's calamity staring you in the face.

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I spent more on making this (£270), than many XMs sell for in the UK.
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by CitroJim »

Gosh, that's a nice piece of kit Adam :-D
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Re: Xantia rear LHM leak (suspect cylinder)

Post by Sam KS »

today's update.
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My working conditions

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a dry sphere

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a dry cylinder

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but LHM dripping from above. I'm told it's a little orange plastic "Y" connector for the pipes. any one had any experience and can offer any advice?
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Post by addo »

There are two Y connectors - one orange, one greeny-blue. Order both to be sure.

To access, disconnect the exhaust and remove the spare wheel tray. Then loosen the rear pair of subframe bolts until they're only in a couple of turns.

Now prise down the plastic strip "tray" that covers all the hydraulic lines under the body.

Next, prise away the height corrector springs where they pass through the slotted adjusting plate below the height corrector.

Now gently loosen the front subframe bolt pair in unison, and eventually allow the subframe to hang down at the front, dangling by those two rear bolts only. Access is then excellent for a full repair.

Can only find one type listed at present.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300698431275" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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