I have a P reg Xantia 1.9 TD estate which has a distinct wobble from the front under acceleration at 35-45 mph. All checks and changes of the wheels have made no difference. The advice iam recieving (and even Mr Haynes mentions it in the manual) suggests that the driveshafts are nadgered or inner CV joints. I have examined the drive shafts with car up and down, wheels on, wheels off, there doesn't seem to be any play of any note, or grease splattering dead boots or the like. However the wobble is driving me round the twist as the rest of the car is excellent. 122,000 miles so far
Has anyone got any suggestions??
I have resigned myself to replacing the drive shafts as they are relatively inexpensive, would one of the resident experts give me a pointer on any likely difficulties.?? On the offside(right hand drive car) one do i need to replace the intermediate bearing on that side and indeed should i remove that part of the shaft??
Has anyone out there had this problem and solved it in this way??
Xantia Drive shafts
Moderator: RichardW
Gps -
As a last resort -
Try have the engine smoothly accelerating with handbrakes applied - and loaded by engaging a gear - sliding on the clutch.
I know this is definately not healthy to the clutch - but it's only a couple of short tests with medium load.
If the wobbling now appears - you have a problem somewhere in a (crank) rotated part - or an engine mount (likely the lower disc).
Could even be a smallish fuelling/timing problem.
If you buy the complete axles - I think the RHS (long) axle comes with the support bearing fitted ?
Anyway - a complete axle is a complete axle - meaning the RHS axle must go out/in complete - not dismantling the inner joint. If you dismantle the inner joint - a NEW unbalance problem could be imposed.
The support bearing is not exactly laughing easy to replace - located by a pressfit ring on the axle.
PS :
Have you checked the drivebelt wheel on the crank ?
Usually these wheels are made up of 2 parts :
Axle part & belt drive part - "glued" by vulcanised rubber. The vulcanisation may have gone partly - making for resonance vibration at certain rev's. The wheel should then be seen wobbling at certain rev's.
As a last resort -
Try have the engine smoothly accelerating with handbrakes applied - and loaded by engaging a gear - sliding on the clutch.
I know this is definately not healthy to the clutch - but it's only a couple of short tests with medium load.
If the wobbling now appears - you have a problem somewhere in a (crank) rotated part - or an engine mount (likely the lower disc).
Could even be a smallish fuelling/timing problem.
If you buy the complete axles - I think the RHS (long) axle comes with the support bearing fitted ?
Anyway - a complete axle is a complete axle - meaning the RHS axle must go out/in complete - not dismantling the inner joint. If you dismantle the inner joint - a NEW unbalance problem could be imposed.
The support bearing is not exactly laughing easy to replace - located by a pressfit ring on the axle.
PS :
Have you checked the drivebelt wheel on the crank ?
Usually these wheels are made up of 2 parts :
Axle part & belt drive part - "glued" by vulcanised rubber. The vulcanisation may have gone partly - making for resonance vibration at certain rev's. The wheel should then be seen wobbling at certain rev's.
Anders !! excellent support as usual... I have tried the engine revving tests and it definitely only occurs on the move and its quite violent wobbles. 90 mph no problem at all!!!
The inner joint right hand side (a three bearing cup fit?) just slots in and out doesn't it? surely the whole drive with intermediate bearing isn't fitted fully assembled?? I intend [:0]to fit the drives myself but want to be sure that I know what Iam letting myself in for, this forum just gets better and better
The inner joint right hand side (a three bearing cup fit?) just slots in and out doesn't it? surely the whole drive with intermediate bearing isn't fitted fully assembled?? I intend [:0]to fit the drives myself but want to be sure that I know what Iam letting myself in for, this forum just gets better and better
yeah - well -
I gues it depends on your axle sourcer then. But usually new/recon axles are in fact delivered as COMPLETE units - exactly to avoid any balancing problems.
That's the case with GSF - if you look at their on-line catalogue.
And it's common to have quite a price diffrence on LHS/RHS axles - because the RHS axle is "extra" fitted.
- yes - inner joints are the common 3 bearing/cup type.
Try dismantle such a joint - then reassemble as pr coincidence - voilá - new strange/odd vibrations - from none to noticeable.
Even worse - if 2 different worn joints mixed up.
I gues it depends on your axle sourcer then. But usually new/recon axles are in fact delivered as COMPLETE units - exactly to avoid any balancing problems.
That's the case with GSF - if you look at their on-line catalogue.
And it's common to have quite a price diffrence on LHS/RHS axles - because the RHS axle is "extra" fitted.
- yes - inner joints are the common 3 bearing/cup type.
Try dismantle such a joint - then reassemble as pr coincidence - voilá - new strange/odd vibrations - from none to noticeable.
Even worse - if 2 different worn joints mixed up.
Had drive shaft wear wobbles on my BX. It was bad. Try driving a short distance carefully on the high (not wheel change) suspension setting. It should be a lot worse if it is drive shaft, and you will notice it at a much lower speed.
Get your tyres checked though. I have had two now that have cause exactly the symptoms you describe. They looked fine but must have had mouliding problems. On one of them you could see around 3/4 of an inch run out when you looked at it spinning with the car jacked and the engine on tickover in first gear.
Get your tyres checked though. I have had two now that have cause exactly the symptoms you describe. They looked fine but must have had mouliding problems. On one of them you could see around 3/4 of an inch run out when you looked at it spinning with the car jacked and the engine on tickover in first gear.
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cheesesliceking
gets spookier, tried the higher ride setting and apart from skipping over the bumps the wobble was far let pronounced. On lock they don't knock, click or anything???????? Will I be changing the shafts for nothing?? and still have the same problem? I have changed all the wheels checked roundness and swapped from another car.....HELP !!!!!
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
Any play in the splines or diff bearings, the inboard joints have springs pressing against the end of the shaft IIRC, constantly pushing the shaft towards the outboard joint, the presence of the spring doesn't make it easey to detect lateral wear in the joint or its fit in the diff.
Check the ride height is ok, as the correctors and their linkages wear the height of the car becomes lower, this will change the normal operating angle of the joint and may be a contributory factor.
Dave
Check the ride height is ok, as the correctors and their linkages wear the height of the car becomes lower, this will change the normal operating angle of the joint and may be a contributory factor.
Dave