leaking XUD hydraulic pump

[fotobright]

Hi,

Quick question to ask the O ring size to replace the leaking one on my Xania TD XUD Hydraulic pump, and where to get?

Thanks

[CitroJim]

Item 5 in the picture below... Part Number 4026 88



Available to order from any Peugeot/Citroen dealer...

[citronut]

be aware if other plugs/caps are leaking No.4 in Jims post is a different diameter and obviously part No. 4026.87

[fotobright]

Thanks for diagram, excellent.

Got a slightly bigger problem, which may or may not be related after posting about the LHM seal.

The Xantia ran fine last night but wouldnt start this morning?

Its just had the aux and then timing belt changed and the timing done, yesterday. It needed jump started at the garage, the battery didnt seem to have enough poke to start it. we got it going I drove it home, restarted it, drove another 40 miles or so, stopped and restarted and drove home. Car seemed ok. I had intended to do the hydraulic pump seal today because the LHM has been dripping down onto the alternator, this is why I posted today.

So the car has sat for two weeks prior to doing this work, it runs on veg oil mix, its not had a problem ever starting. The battery was not able to start the car on its own and i'm trying to work out if this is a battery, alternator or fuel issue or somthing else? I primed the pump and checked it was getting fuel, its got a 50/50 diesel veg mix so better than normal, i've put the battery on charge.

If its not the battery, which has been fine up to now, what might be going on? LHM in alternator and not charging the battery?

Any ideas folks?

[CitroJim]

LHM in alternator and not charging the battery?

As Corporal Jones might say 'They don't like it up 'em!' LHM and alternators are known not to mix at all well. Easily tested. Start up and pop a voltmeter across the battery. Just above idle the alternator should be putting out 14.4V. Much less then this and the alternator is a suspect.

Another possible cause is bad battery clamps. They can go high-resistance where the wires are crimped into the clamps. A quick test is to start up and then put on every electrical item on the car you can so that the maximum current is flowing. Leave it like so for a few minutes and then feel the clamps. If one or the other or both feel distinctly warm then that's the problem. Also check the battery earth connection on the top of the gearbox.

Such problems can reduce the voltage seen across the battery when the engine is running and can make it appear the alternator is a bit weak when in fact it's fine.

If you do find hot clamps, a quick temporary repair can be achieved by re-crimping using a par of very heavy-duty pliers.

[fotobright]

Good advice
Never a truer word re: Dad's Army.

Just so i'm clear. Put the voltmeter between the + & - on the battery at turn over. Do the same on the alternator at turn over? I think i've missed somthing vital.

Private Frank Pike

[Xaccers]

Item 5 in the picture below... Part Number 4026 88



Available to order from any Peugeot/Citroën dealer...

Get 2 of them and replace the one on the 19mm hex blanking plate. Careful you don't let the spring slide out when you remove them, it is not under tension so won't jump out but could slide out under gravity.

Basically the pump has two output positions for the suspension out pipe depending on which model it is fitted to. The unused output is then fitted with a 19mm hex blanking plate.

To do the one on with the pipe. You'll need to undo the bolts holding the P clips firmly which are on the metal pipe. This will enable you to move the pipes out the way.

[CitroJim]

Just so i'm clear. Put the voltmeter between the + & - on the battery at turn over. Do the same on the alternator at turn over? I think i've missed somthing vital.

Sorry, my bad...

Voltmeter connected to the battery positive and negative terminals and with the engine running just above idle - say 1500 rpm - and look for 14.4V on the meter. 14.4V is what you will see if the alternator, the battery and the battery wiring is in good health.

That's all you have to do...

[fotobright]

thanks for this.

If I buy an O ring set from toolstation I think that includes the sizes needed. Good heads up on the P clip section down the side there.

Just wish the car would start! then I could at least drive it to my workshop

[fotobright]

Thanks for clarification.

The engine cant actually idle at the moment as its turning over but not firing up. Hopefully when the battery is charged it will at least start

Just so i'm clear. Put the voltmeter between the + & - on the battery at turn over. Do the same on the alternator at turn over? I think i've missed somthing vital.

Sorry, my bad...

Voltmeter connected to the battery positive and negative terminals and with the engine running just above idle - say 1500 rpm - and look for 14.4V on the meter. 14.4V is what you will see if the alternator, the battery and the battery wiring is in good health.

That's all you have to do...

[CitroJim]

If you buy an O ring kit, do please ensure they're LHM-proof.

Easy done. leave then in a small dish of LHM for a few days and see if they swell up or go hard and brittle. Not all O rings will stand LHM...

[fotobright]

Maybe just better to buy a couple from Citroen or dealer

If you buy an O ring kit, do please ensure they're LHM-proof.

Easy done. leave then in a small dish of LHM for a few days and see if they swell up or go hard and brittle. Not all O rings will stand LHM...

[CitroJim]

Maybe just better to buy a couple from Citroën or dealer

Absolutely yes, they're not expensive...

[fotobright]

I realised I could call my breakdown cover and they could come out and try and start it.

So I called the breakdown service, they did a jump start, the car turned over nicely but no ignition. As I was turning over the guy undid the injector and we could see it was pumping fuel, so fuel line ok-ish.

I'm not entirely sure what he did but the car started and ran, (possibly by allowing the trapped air to escape from the injection pipe) It was a one spanner job anyways..

He said there was maybe some air in the injection and possibly a faulty return valve? if it doesnt start tomorrow it could well mean a valve is flooding the pipes or something, plausable?

Just so i'm clear. Put the voltmeter between the + & - on the battery at turn over. Do the same on the alternator at turn over? I think i've missed somthing vital.

Sorry, my bad...

Voltmeter connected to the battery positive and negative terminals and with the engine running just above idle - say 1500 rpm - and look for 14.4V on the meter. 14.4V is what you will see if the alternator, the battery and the battery wiring is in good health.

That's all you have to do...