Help re: changing zx clutch please...

[RussellF97]

Hi All,

I'm now at the point where I have to pull out the o/s driveshaft. The offset bolts are out of the way but the bearing doesn't want to move (it sounds so easy in the Haynes book!).
Any pointers on where and how hard I can lever or bang something to get it to move?

Also; how heavy is the gearbox? My reason for asking is that I'm working on my own and I want to be prepared for if and when it starts to take charge!

Thanks,

Phil

[Peter.N.]

Hi Phil

The centre bearing can be tight, the easiest way I have found to remove it is to clamp a large pair of molegrips around the shaft and hit them to slide the shaft out, you will need to keep the hammer quite tight to the shaft and the grips really tight too.

The gearbox is fairly heavy but if its anything like the XM it will just sit there with a gap - but maybe it isn't so you need someone who has done one, I expect they will be along soon.

Peter

[RussellF97]

Thanks very much for that Peter. Molegrips and hammer it is!

Phil

[DickieG]

The gearbox is heavy but manageable for one person, I've done it by lowering/raising the box between my knees.

[citronut]

Hi Phil

The centre bearing can be tight, the easiest way I have found to remove it is to clamp a large pair of molegrips around the shaft and hit them to slide the shaft out, you will need to keep the hammer quite tight to the shaft and the grips really tight too.

The gearbox is fairly heavy but if its anything like the XM it will just sit there with a gap - but maybe it isn't so you need someone who has done one, I expect they will be along soon.

Peter

no no no please dont go bashing mole grips ( unless maybe they are cheapy's or genuine crappy mole'ys ),

the easiest wat the move the intermediate bearing from the housing is with a large old screw driver which has lost its handle or the likes ( as this is what i use )and a lump hammer,

drift it out at the collar on the shaft gear box side of the housing, mind you have a container under the diff to catch the gear oil, and keep your arm, head or anything else clear from under the diff,

the best way for a DIY'er if you havent got an engine crain or engine/box support beam is two trolley jacks, one to support the box and the other for the engine,

[RussellF97]

Thanks for advice, everyone. I did have an old pair of Molegrips but they just pinged off when clouted. I eventually used gentle taps with a hammer and drift on the collar and it came out quite easily. Phew!

[spider]

I used to use a large blunt punch to push them out if they were stuck.

I find these box's quite heavy tbh but I'm only little so it may well be me. Assuming its the same as the 306D units, the "problem" I had was getting it out, as I had to pull it a bit then twist it around to clear everything.

More annoying if its the pull/push clutch unit too as you have to be extra careful refitting to not break the bearing.

[Peter.N.]

My reason for using the molegrip approach is that there isn't really enough room under the XM to do it comfortably any other way, also that method pushes the bearing out square so its not so likely to jam, you need a large pair of molegrips and if they are of decent quality you won't do them any harm by hitting them with a hammer. Pleased you got it out OK anyway.

Peter

[citronut]

Thanks for advice, everyone. I did have an old pair of Molegrips but they just pinged off when clouted. I eventually used gentle taps with a hammer and drift on the collar and it came out quite easily. Phew!

the proper citroen tool is a contraption that clamps to the shaft with a slide hammer attached to it,

My reason for using the molegrip approach is that there isn't really enough room under the XM to do it comfortably any other way, also that method pushes the bearing out square so its not so likely to jam, you need a large pair of molegrips and if they are of decent quality you won't do them any harm by hitting them with a hammer. Pleased you got it out OK anyway.

Peter

ok Peter
not famillure with this job on an XM but i still woyld not whack my Vice grips on the sides of the jaws as that is the brand i use,

i might be tempted if i had some crappy Mole'ys though if the need arose

although i have been known to tap the tips of the jaws to pull pins and the like out, as in the clutch lever to fork shaft pin,

[flying clutchman]

A long chisel and club hammer is my usual method. As gearboxes go the be3/4 box isn't very heavy, and it's quite easy to handle shape-wise as well. more difficult to put back if you've got pull-type clutch though. Needs a delicate touch!

[spider]

A long chisel and club hammer is my usual method. As gearboxes go the be3/4 box isn't very heavy, and it's quite easy to handle shape-wise as well. more difficult to put back if you've got pull-type clutch though. Needs a delicate touch!

Does anyone know *why* the later DT's have the (annoying when refitting sometimes) pull clutch fitted ? ,early ones don't appear to and I don't recall seeing a N/A XUD unit with one, only the turbo's.

My DT did not have one being an early (1991) one. The same cable was on it when it was sold as when I purchased it and that's seven years, and I doubt it was changed previously so I don't see any weak points in it.

I can't quite work out any advantage as you're (sort of) transferring some of the pedal force to the cable outer I think.

[RussellF97]

Luckily, mine's a push type clutch.

All was fine and dandy right up to the moment I found my clutch alignment tool had gone awol. B*gg*r. Thankfully, someone over here can lend me one tomorrow. Phew...! I could see £20-odd spent and a five day wait to get one from fleabay.

[flying clutchman]

you don't need an aligning tool, just do it by eye. More accurate than anything else. It's the way I do most of my clutches.

[citronut]

you don't need an aligning tool, just do it by eye. More accurate than anything else. It's the way I do most of my clutches.

i do it by feel oooh la la missus,

really though if you can get your fingertips at the edge of the disc in the three points around the pressure plate, you can feel were the disc is aligned to the edge of the working face of the pressure plate, just feel the distance it is the the edge at all the points you can,

gear box goes home lovely and smooth first time every time,

mind you i do have an engine/box support beam with an adjustable hook for both engine and box ( mucking fagic
i dont know what i did before i had this,

regards malcolm