so, the brake warning light occasionaly comes on when braking, i know what the front discs and pads should look like but ive never had drums or shoes, so do these look ok?
I'd say that the shoes have been fairly recently replaced following the old ones wearing down to the rivets and scoring the drums badly. It looks like the drums should have been replaced as well. Basically the braking surface on the drum should be shiny and dead smooth and not scored like yours are.
One potential cause and one I've had on Robyn's 206 (same brakes) is that the linings can detach from the shoe and if any distance is covered with a detached lining then the drum certainly risks being scored badly.
Ideally the drums need replacing or truing up by an engineering firm.
Something to be aware of is the auto adjuster mechanism in these is notoriously unreliable in my experience.
TBH, no I wouldn't like these on something although I really don't like drum brakes in the first place. They don't look like there's an even smooth point of contact ANYWHERE and must judder and squeel looking at the surface area of contact and not be scored as shown in the pictures. The actual drum has scored as well as the shoes and with brakes you really can't take chances and usually they don't even cost big chunks of money so I'd always err on caution and renew the drums and shoes.
john wrote:
whats the adjuster? is that the metal part that runs parallel to a spring and piston like thing?
Yep, that's it John... You'll see it has a barrel screw operated by a ratchet and pawl. It takes up wear and it is likely not working if the handbrake comes up five clicks.
I'm not aware of any electrical wear indicators on the rear brakes. If the light is coming on then that'll be the front discs. If the pads really are good the pad sense wires may be chafed and occasionally touching earth somewhere. The routing is critical and if wrong they'll soon find some metal to chafe on...
I actually wouldn't sweat it on those rears. Not ideal, but plenty of meat on the shoes and the scoring will clean up next time around. You can see by the shininess, the shoes have adapted to the drum wearing surface as it stands (or rolls).
i agree with Jim and more offten than not when i take this type of drum brakes apart i find the tiny stainless steel pawl missing completely,
this locks the adjuster from un/winding and if you are not very carefull on fitting/setting up you can dislodge it,
it is also possible for the unaware to fit the adjusters on the wrong sides as on has a right hand thread and the other a left hand thread,
if fitted on the wrong sides they will un/wind and possibly kick the pawl out of its seat,
there is not warning light sensors on the rears,
if the front brakes and sensor wires are in good order it could be the fluid is low causing the lamp to come on,
RE the front brakes, managed to get a look and am i correct in thinking if the pads have wear sensor there should be a plug?, the pads are around 5mm+ (and will be changed) but i see no plug, i do so what appears to be a tag for want of a better word though, the brake fluid is around 3/4 between min-max and the warning buzzer/light still sounds
There are generally only two pads wired up, one on each calliper.
That's not a Citroen brake pad by the way, just a random image that demonstrates the principle.
Volvo S80 D5.........
C5 2.2HDi Exclusive 2003 manual (now gone).
2009 Renault Megane, the misses drive.
Had a 1988 BX 19TRS Auto many moons ago.
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