Getting the above service done in stages over last few weeks via a local mechanic. Had the all important cambelt changed, oil and filter and new coolent as a result of the water pump having to be replaced. I have changed the air filter myself, the full extent of my practical under the bonnet skills.
Me thinks - I should be thinking of getting the fuel filter changed and in theory should replace the Citroen hydralic fluid. A couple of mechanics have told me that they have never changed the said fluid, just topped it up when needed. What do you chaps think, and is there anything else I'm missing. I appreciate it's all listed out in the handbook but I am working to a budget. The car is a 1997 year and it is it's 1st major service.
Once again thanks in advance
Mark W
Xantia TD 72K service on a budget
Moderator: RichardW
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RichardW
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Mark
To answer most of your posts...
Agree £180 for belt, pump and coolant sounds OK.
Yes you should change fuel filter - if you can do the air filter, you can do the fuel filter (get filter and small tub filter will fit in. Unscrew top of filter housing and carefully lift out top and filter - still joined to fuel pipe - and place in tub. Separate the filter element from the top of the housing - noting the location of the seal - a load of fuel will drop out - into your handily placed tub hopefully! Look into the bottom of the filter housing if there are blobs of 'jelly' (water) or crud at the bottom, stick a short pipe on the spigot on the front, and drain this off into your tub by undoing the knurled nut a turn or two. Tighten the nut, fit the the filter to the lid, refit the lid, tightening the screws down carefully in stages, and in an oposing pattern (eg top right, bottom left, top left, bottom right). Pump the fuel primer (at the LH of the engine as you look at it) until it goes firm, then start the engine and let it run at 1500 rpm for a minute or so. Job done.)
The LHM should be changed every 2 years / 36 k miles if you want to keep your suspension in tip top condition, and want to keep the car. It's not difficult, but can be fiddly to get the pump to prime, so this is maybe best left to somebody else.
The pollen filter is actually inside the car, under the glovebox somewhere. If it's original at 72k it will need changing! It's not very difficult I understand, but have not donw it so can't give directions.
Richard
To answer most of your posts...
Agree £180 for belt, pump and coolant sounds OK.
Yes you should change fuel filter - if you can do the air filter, you can do the fuel filter (get filter and small tub filter will fit in. Unscrew top of filter housing and carefully lift out top and filter - still joined to fuel pipe - and place in tub. Separate the filter element from the top of the housing - noting the location of the seal - a load of fuel will drop out - into your handily placed tub hopefully! Look into the bottom of the filter housing if there are blobs of 'jelly' (water) or crud at the bottom, stick a short pipe on the spigot on the front, and drain this off into your tub by undoing the knurled nut a turn or two. Tighten the nut, fit the the filter to the lid, refit the lid, tightening the screws down carefully in stages, and in an oposing pattern (eg top right, bottom left, top left, bottom right). Pump the fuel primer (at the LH of the engine as you look at it) until it goes firm, then start the engine and let it run at 1500 rpm for a minute or so. Job done.)
The LHM should be changed every 2 years / 36 k miles if you want to keep your suspension in tip top condition, and want to keep the car. It's not difficult, but can be fiddly to get the pump to prime, so this is maybe best left to somebody else.
The pollen filter is actually inside the car, under the glovebox somewhere. If it's original at 72k it will need changing! It's not very difficult I understand, but have not donw it so can't give directions.
Richard
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Dave Burns
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Don't let fuel run down the engine, in can easily find its way into the bell housing and onto the clutch.
The clean no mess way to changeing the fuel filter, replace the filter drain tube on the drain cock if not present, rap some rag or w/wipes around drain cock and open it (they leak past the threads when open) ensuring the draining fuel is caught, undo the outlet pipe clip on top of the filter housing, wrap some rag or workshop wipes around the pipe and pull it off, the filter will now begin to drain very quickly, when the fuel stops running loosen and remove the four allen screws on top of the filter housing, rap rag around it and lift it off, you should still have a clean dry engine using this method.
Dave
p.s if you haven't allready done so, invest in a good quality barrier cream and shove it well under your nails aswell as on your skin, apart from the obvious safety factor it makes cleaning you dannies that much easier, the best one (and the only one that seems to work) I have used so far is Rozalex Dry Guard.
The clean no mess way to changeing the fuel filter, replace the filter drain tube on the drain cock if not present, rap some rag or w/wipes around drain cock and open it (they leak past the threads when open) ensuring the draining fuel is caught, undo the outlet pipe clip on top of the filter housing, wrap some rag or workshop wipes around the pipe and pull it off, the filter will now begin to drain very quickly, when the fuel stops running loosen and remove the four allen screws on top of the filter housing, rap rag around it and lift it off, you should still have a clean dry engine using this method.
Dave
p.s if you haven't allready done so, invest in a good quality barrier cream and shove it well under your nails aswell as on your skin, apart from the obvious safety factor it makes cleaning you dannies that much easier, the best one (and the only one that seems to work) I have used so far is Rozalex Dry Guard.