Changing front pads and discs on Xantia.

[numnuts]

Hello again. I'm planning on changing the front discs and pads on my W reg Xantia 2litre HDI over the weekend and could do with a couple of pointers please. To disconnect the end of the handbrake cable does the handbrake need to be off? (Sorry if that sounds dim but I'm not a mechanic) Does it just pull out? Also, are the brake wear sensors hidden beneath a rubber covering? That's about it, though I would appreciate any top tips. Thanks all, have a great weekend!

[Xaccers]

Set the car on high, start the wheel bolts going, get axle stands under the front jacking points (use a trolley jack on the subframe behind the front wheels - there's a large nut that I fit the jack's cup over - if you need to raise the car a little bit to get the stands under), then set the car on low and the front will lift off the ground safely.
Remove the wheels and leave the handbrake off.
Get a pair of pliers to rotate the arm the handbrake cable clips into and free the cable, then feed it back out the way so it isn't damaged when the calliper flips up later.
The retaining pin for the front of the calliper should have an R clip in it, remove this then drift the pin out.
Lift the front of the calliper up and wiggle the old pads out.
Using one of the old pads/a screwdriver/square bar rotate the piston clockwise to wind it back in all the way - it takes a while.
Fit the new pads and close up the calliper.
The sensor wire's plastic end plugs into one of the holes in the end of the pad, while the other end plugs into the double socket over the back.
Re-fit the wheels, set the car on high, remove the axle stands and set her back to normal.
Have a cup of tea.

[Rhothgar]

You missed a couple of points Andy. Sorry!

Corrected method!

Have a cup of tea.
Set the car on high, start the wheel bolts going, get axle stands under the front jacking points (use a trolley jack on the subframe behind the front wheels - there's a large nut that I fit the jack's cup over - if you need to raise the car a little bit to get the stands under), then set the car on low and the front will lift off the ground safely.
Remove the wheels and leave the handbrake off.
Review weather and if still OK, have another cuppa!
Get a pair of pliers to rotate the arm the handbrake cable clips into and free the cable, then feed it back out the way so it isn't damaged when the calliper flips up later.
The retaining pin for the front of the calliper should have an R clip in it, remove this then drift the pin out.
Lift the front of the calliper up and wiggle the old pads out.
Using one of the old pads/a screwdriver/square bar rotate the piston clockwise to wind it back in all the way - it takes a while.
Grab deck chair if weather is exceptionally nice and put your feet up for maybe 2 - 3 hours. This is, of course, obligatory for our Aussie members! Finish relaxation period with a nice cup of tea. For tea, read Castlemaine or Fosters.
Fit the new pads and close up the calliper.
The sensor wire's plastic end plugs into one of the holes in the end of the pad, while the other end plugs into the double socket over the back.
Re-fit the wheels, set the car on high, remove the axle stands and set her back to normal.
Have a cup of tea.
Sober up if Aussie member.
Road test.
Finish with cup of tea or six pack of Fosters.



Sorry! I'm in a mad mood.

Delete post if necessary!!

We need to let everyone into this secret of how we stripped Stepto1's old Xant so fast!

[RichardW]

Note if it's a 110 HDi it has different brakes..... If you want to change the discs as well, you need a T55 (and decent breaker bar!) to remove the caliper bolts. To get the discs off, remove the wheels, extract the disc screws, then if the discs are not loose, start the engine, engage 2nd and lean on the brake pedal. One will come free with a bang. Stop engine, fit 2 wheel bolts in the now loose side, and then do it again to free the other. Brutal - and they go with some bang, but very quick and effective - beats hammering the living daylights out of the hub!

[robert_e_smart]

To get the discs off, remove the wheels, extract the disc screws, then if the discs are not loose, start the engine, engage 2nd and lean on the brake pedal. One will come free with a bang. Stop engine, fit 2 wheel bolts in the now loose side, and then do it again to free the other. Brutal - and they go with some bang, but very quick and effective - beats hammering the living daylights out of the hub!

I like that

[reblack68]

That's a good idea, I wish I'd thought of that when I was doing the C5's discs. The idea I came up with after what seemed like hours of fruitless hammering (disc now buckled so re-assembly not an option, working car blocked in behind, getting dark- I'm sure we've all got ourselves in similar situations) was to use the carrier bolts to push the disc off the hub. Seemed so obvious after it occurred to me.

[Old-Guy]

'....... To get the discs off, remove the wheels, extract the disc screws, then if the discs are not loose, start the engine, engage 2nd and lean on the brake pedal. One will come free with a bang. Stop engine, fit 2 wheel bolts in the now loose side, and then do it again to free the other. Brutal - and they go with some bang, but very quick and effective - beats hammering the living daylights out of the hub!

The simplest ideas are the best!

Last time I couldn't get a pair of old discs off (not a Citroen) with heat and a big hammer, I ended up filing flats on the back of the driving flanges to provide a grip for a borrowed hydraulic puller - and did the discs jump off with bang.

I just hope I remember Richards clever solution when next faced with this problem.

[citroenxm]

more notes... hdi 90 has the older xud td brakes with the pin holding the caliper where as the hdi 110 have the much larger bosch calipers and brakes and a 12mm or 13mm nut hold the caliper together... hand brake release is the same with both...

secondly.. dont p**s about with a screw driver winding the caliper piston back in you will be all day!! get a tightly fitting socket and a short extention, fit it tovthe centre of the caliper piston even if its slightly loose then with your ratchet hold the caliper with one hand and wind the piston back like a nut.. abgle the ratchet to grip... sooooooo much faster and easyer!!

beleve me it DOES work.. i do it all the time now.. i did have a video of it but not sure now where it is..

[Rhothgar]

I didn't have anything like this problem when I replaced all my discs and pads.

Presumably it is caused by corrosion between disc flange face and hub. Someone else on the forum did suggest to give it a good run with a few stops from like national speed limit speed to zero (on a country lane of course for safety) to build up a bit of heat. He was referring largely to getting the pads out between it must have helped me with the discs too.

[reblack68]

Sometimes discs just fall off and sometimes you have a massive battle. It sometimes happens with wheels too, especially alloys but Ford Fiestas can manage it with steels too.

[Stepto1]

I use the tight fitting socket tip every time. So much quicker.

I thought the brakes were good on my 110 HDI. Much better then the standard brakes.

[lexi]

The last time I struggled with discs? Out came the 9inch grinder and a massive slot was quickly cut through disc. Thick chisel driven at 180 deg on edge and snapped the sod.

Now that IS brutal

[addo]

Yes!

The problem with Rhothgar's "Aussie Style" is choice of tipple. Were a beer supply involved, it might be Coopers, VB, Melbies or Little Creatures. Personally I would take water or Powerade...

[Rhothgar]

You see Addo, we get the stuff you guys don't like!

Now that's an EXPORT!