Xantia rear spheres
Moderator: RichardW
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Xantia rear spheres
<font size="3"></font id="size3"><font color="black"></font id="black">part corrosion....an intresting if infuriating little problem that is giving me some cause for concern.
The problem being I can't undo the damn rear spheres on my 96 Xantia.
Having read with intrest the post about using various methods to shift corroded parts I am now somewhat confused by another post concerning anti-sink spheres,(which I have).
Now I understand the logic in undoing the spheres slightly with the suspension pressurised,(weight of car and hydraulic pressure holding the unit firmly in place ect.), but another post recomends the removal of the hydraulic pipe BEFORE any attempt to undo the sphere is made, to prevent any damage to the pipework.
So here's my dilemma, which is correct ? surely if I remove the hydraulic pipe I will loose the benifit of having the unit held in place tightly?
If I leave the pipe in place and it snaps this too will not be the desired effect.
Having tried to remove the sphere with the pipe off and the system unpressurised to no avail.(all I acomplished was a lot of straining and bending of the loop on the subframe which locks the hydraulic unit in place !!)[:(]
I am inclined to try with the system pressurised but before I do I would welcome any advice from anyone who has got over a similar problem.
Finally I seem to have a third sphere on the rear subframe in the middle ???
Any ideas what this is for ?...the system is not a "activa" one, just anti-sink.
Thanks in advance for any help or guidance you may be able to give.[:D]
Xantia 2.0 16V '96 128,000 Miles.
The problem being I can't undo the damn rear spheres on my 96 Xantia.
Having read with intrest the post about using various methods to shift corroded parts I am now somewhat confused by another post concerning anti-sink spheres,(which I have).
Now I understand the logic in undoing the spheres slightly with the suspension pressurised,(weight of car and hydraulic pressure holding the unit firmly in place ect.), but another post recomends the removal of the hydraulic pipe BEFORE any attempt to undo the sphere is made, to prevent any damage to the pipework.
So here's my dilemma, which is correct ? surely if I remove the hydraulic pipe I will loose the benifit of having the unit held in place tightly?
If I leave the pipe in place and it snaps this too will not be the desired effect.
Having tried to remove the sphere with the pipe off and the system unpressurised to no avail.(all I acomplished was a lot of straining and bending of the loop on the subframe which locks the hydraulic unit in place !!)[:(]
I am inclined to try with the system pressurised but before I do I would welcome any advice from anyone who has got over a similar problem.
Finally I seem to have a third sphere on the rear subframe in the middle ???
Any ideas what this is for ?...the system is not a "activa" one, just anti-sink.
Thanks in advance for any help or guidance you may be able to give.[:D]
Xantia 2.0 16V '96 128,000 Miles.
...although I am a little bemused about the anti-sink spheres[:0] you go on about. I'm going by my Haynes manual which seems to suggest that removal of the rear spheres is simply a matter of de-pressurising and using a strap wrench so I look forward to the rusted opposition with trepidation and fear [V]
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The anti-sink sphere is the one in the middle and that is the one where you should remove the hydraulic pipe before removal. The side spheres should be loosened with the system pressurised (high position), you should be able to do this without damaging the loops any further. Take care to support the car when you loosen the spheres in order that it does not sink with you underneath.
Best of luck
Mads
Best of luck
Mads
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Problem is, a chain wrench won't shift them. I know, I just broke one, trying to move the rear spheres.
I seem to remember a post saying that there is a special tool for this job (Pliades, I think)and that it can be hired, and returned after the job is done. From where, I can't recall.
Perhaps someone will jump in here with the information?
I seem to remember a post saying that there is a special tool for this job (Pliades, I think)and that it can be hired, and returned after the job is done. From where, I can't recall.
Perhaps someone will jump in here with the information?
Oh, I found it...
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=3535
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=3535
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<font color="blue"></font id="blue"><font face="Times New Roman"></font id="Times New Roman"><font color="black"></font id="black">Here's a quick update on my Xantia rear sphere situation.
Followed Mad's instructions and hey presto ! would you believe it the little buggers undid ![:D]
The O/S sphere undid with out too much problem but the N/S one was a real struggle.
Patience prevailed and the car now drives as it used to.
Thanks again to all those who contributed their knowledge and insight.
If it don't fit, youre probably doing it wrong ![:)]
Followed Mad's instructions and hey presto ! would you believe it the little buggers undid ![:D]
The O/S sphere undid with out too much problem but the N/S one was a real struggle.
Patience prevailed and the car now drives as it used to.
Thanks again to all those who contributed their knowledge and insight.
If it don't fit, youre probably doing it wrong ![:)]
I'm taking time out to do mine AGAIN tomorrow. Bloody things broke two of my wrenches and having followed advice here have unfortunately concluded that I've got to either make something or buy a more substantial chain wrench. Spoke to GSFs Birmingham (no clue), Reading (Told me to ring Heathrow and speak to AndySpares people) and Heathrow (chain wrench mate!). So I'll go to anywhere but Halfords to buy something substantial enough to MAKE MY DAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll post some pictures if all's successful.
If GSF dont sell them any more try the people before - I think they manufacture the tools
http://www.pleiades.uk.com/home.html
Jeremy
http://www.pleiades.uk.com/home.html
Jeremy
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If you are removing spheres to replace them with new ones, A large hammer and a cold chisel may always be relied upon. The series of short, sharp shocks eventually prevail and as soon as it moves, you are home and dry. A generous smear of silicone grease on the O ring before reassembly is the key to making the job easy next time although being only hand tight to start with suggests that they should be loosened and retightened at each oil change, then they'll never stick.