pug 806 hdi turbo

[imthejoker]

Hello all ,
iv a 2001 806 hdi and the turbo has stopped working this happened gradually over the last 5months , iv checked the vacuum system and there appears to be no leaks - the vacuum soloniod for the waste gate seems to blow and not suck! but the wastegate closed easile when i suck the pipe(its always open ), maf seems ok , local mechanic has suggested the egr but he also said to seemd to be working ok, i cant rev past 3000 when stationary , when driving i cant get past 2500 rpm and it looses power rapidly on even slight hills , its also costing more in juice as im haveing to drop a gear to try and keep the revs up - any suggestion would be gratefuly received - especially if accompanied by pics(as i cant find a haynes type manual with good pics)
, Thanks again guys.

Joker

[spider]

There's a small air pipe underneath the rear of the engine bay, if memory serves its about 1.5 inches in diameter and few long, I can remember I had to change these quite often as they'd deteriorate which would cause a power loss, although usually with a bit of noise.

Sorry that's a bit vague but its part of the intake system, you should see it when you have the shields off underneath.

[imthejoker]

Hey Spider , thanks for your reply , the engine dosent seem any noiser than usual but in all fairness im normally inside driving...
would this pipe cause the turbo to stop pulling in ? , and do you mean the heat sheilds underneath around the exhaust /manifold where it dips from the engine bay to under the car?.

Many thanks
Joker

[dieselnutjob]

you can blank off the EGR easily enough. There is a shiny pipe that comes up from the EGR valve and runs across the back of the cylinder head where it joins the inlet manifold at the gearbox end of the engine. Just undo the screws (fiddly but not mega hard) and put a plate in there to block it.

I have suffered with quite a few boost leaks on our 806, with several intercooler pipes having split and the intercooler itself splitting. Each time this resulting in hissing or farting noises as the compressed air leaked.

You can swap the EGR solenoid with the boost solenoid to see if the solenoid is the problem.

[spider]

I think its a boost pipe, I cannot remember. The shields are the composite / black fibre ones underneath the engine, if they are still present, the undertrays.

[CitroJim]

Indeed, a boost leak most likely. With the under-shield off and a window wound down it should be quite obvious when the engine is under load.

Check all pipes, not forgetting, if the 806 has one, the little rubber stub-pipe on the turbo outlet that connects to the pipe that comes back under the car.

A bad boot leak will bring on the engine management light and cause the engine to go into limp. Then it won't rev above about 3,000 revs.

A good move would be to have Peugeot Planet (PP2000) diagnostics run over it. That'll read any stored faults the ECU may be harbouring and give a good clue as to the cause of the problem. Also, actuator tests can help nail it too...

You may find a Citroen Lexia diagnostics owner may have PP2000 as well as most Lexia 3 systems bundle PP2000 along with it.

Have a look here for those members offering diagnostics.

[fynnbar]

A bad boot leak will bring on the engine management light and cause the engine to go into limp. Then it won't rev above about 3,000 revs.

No it won't. The MAP sensor reading only flags if boost is too high.
I agree that the vehicle is in limp mode, so get the fault codes read.
At this stage, I'd suspect the boost solenoid or vac pipe from there to the wastegate actuator.
Wastegate should be open with the engine off, closes fully on start-up and tickover.

[imthejoker]

firstly thanks to you all for your replies and time taken in posting your helpful advice.
dieselnutjob - should i remove the whole of the egr pipework and blank off both ends or will one suffice , iv swapped the solonoids but its seems to have made no difference.
spider - thanks for the clarification - something for the weekend there-weather n kids permitting.
citrojim - il add the ideas to the weekend list, iv had the fault codes read by a local mechanic on a universal fault code reader and the only one there was an ignition fault(he cleared it but it came back-il check members thou.
fynbar - the wastegates always right open - regardless

[imthejoker]

sorry fynbar - the wastegate closes easily when the pipe is sucked.

[fynnbar]

And what about when it's all connected up ?

[imthejoker]

its permantly open

[fynnbar]

Then you either have a vacuum leak or the boost solenoid / its wiring is faulty.
Something is preventing vacuum from operating the actuator. You have the default setting which is wastegate open, so very low boost at all times.
You say you can operate the actuator by suction on the pipe - that shows everything downstream of the suction is fine.
The standard test for a faulty solenoid is to swap for a good one, but you say you've already swapped with the EGR solenoid. Did you swap all the pipes and the electrical connector, on both solenoids ? Better to do this, as you eliminate vac leaks from disconnected pipes.

[dieselnutjob]

to block the EGR you need only block it in one place

unfortunately the intercooler and the pipes to/from the intercooler are a weak point on these

to change an intercooler the front bumper has to come off. There's a bit of work to do but none of it is particularly difficult

[imthejoker]

Hi guys ,sorry for not replying sonner iv beeen working away then straight back on days so no time off ,
fynbar - all swapped round - no difference noticed .
dieselnutjob - il block the egr valve this w.end at the wastegate end , will this stop the excess smoke aswell pls?

Thanks for your time guys.

Joker

[imthejoker]

All , can i just say thanks for all the help, time and effort from all who helped.
the problems found were as follows.
egr valve gunged up solidly
pipework to egr was virtually closed
two vaccums valves -one below expansion bottle and one below air filter housing
turbo elec connections corroded
loose turbo actuator arm loose
turbo vains clogged
these are the ones i can remember being told about , but the car is running better than it ever ran after being to peugeots , it sit at idle smoothly pulls away with buggerall revs, iv drivern around all day and my diesel gauge has'nt moved, i flew round the m25/a13 earlier and it felt like a different car.
To sum up then mr peugeot - 5hrs labour inc parts - £200
peugeot on the a12/romford - inspection -£69 , labour (for 5 hrs ) £350 , parts £170 - TOTAL -£639
So,,,, who ya gonna call
Joker