BX19RD cylinder head.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 22 Aug 2003, 17:11

Needs some advice.
My son-in-law is trying to remove cylinder head from his (n/a) XUD BX19 diesel '89.
1) During removal of top bolts - the front middle bolt snapped. By the removed bit it's judged that quite some lenght is left as stud in the block. The bit is clearly rust contaminated in the snapped area. My suggestion is to weld on a large steel nut - then by the welding heat hoping the (rust-stuck) stud loosens - and can be unwinded by the nut. True ?
2) The head does not slip - stuck like the bolts still are on (they are NOT). The Haynes advice is to use 2 angled rods - not common tools in the DIY workshop. Any steel rods that may be bent to shape - would surely bent back straight again (or snap) if tried ?
Any ideas ?
3) I'm unsure if the LHS engine support is bolted into both the head & block ?
Tx in advance

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 22 Aug 2003, 17:20

Replace the cam belt and turn it over on the starter with all the bolts replaced finger tight.That'll shift the head. Once it is off then deal with the stuck stud as you suggest.

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 22 Aug 2003, 17:27

Anders old mate,
As you know, I know nowt about BX diesels & LHD cars but as regards your suggestion for removing the broken off bolt, I'll give that my endorsement.
I was removing the side plate off my c-matic gearbox when it just went keerrackk! and snapped off halfway down due to rust. I carried on & removed the alloy side plate & just mig welded the bolt back together & it simply screwed straight out. I also had a problem with a CX door hinge where the allen keys were getting snapped off (several) so I went to the local discount tool shop, bought a few cheap Chinese ones, again mig welded the allen key to the head of the retaining bolt (allen headed of course) and when it cooled, it didn't need hardly any pressure at all to remove.
So I would suggest that this course of action would be your safest; rest assured if it doesn't come out then, it wasn't going to come out anyway.
With the head bolt incidentally, we found that rather than use a spanner initially to try to remove after welding back together, we used one of those gadgets normally used to remove broken head bolts with the self closing/grabbing jaws & used it right in the weld; this tends to remove any "springiness" normally associated with tight bolts and gives the teeth something to really grab on to.
Alan S

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 22 Aug 2003, 23:17

The left hand engine mounting is bolted both to the block and the head, while its still there the head wont shift much, plus the head has hollow locating dowels to precisely position it on the block.
The engine mounting has the belt tensioner spring and plunger in it so remove or restrain them before taking the thing off.
Hmmm...welding a nut on might not be a good idea, the steel could loose alot of its tensile strength at the weld because of the heat and the bolt might just twist off again, if you do it though protect the block and especialy the bores from spatter.
Dave

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 22 Aug 2003, 23:29

Dave -
You're trying to tell me - that a Stilson on the boltstud should be tried first ?
I Don't think that'll crack it - if it would - it'd allready have come out in the first place ???
- or do you in fact mean to leave the stud ??? (which I truly doubt !)

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 22 Aug 2003, 23:47

No Anders I don't mean leave it in, drown it in penetrating oil and shock it well in all directions with a hammer before trying to move it, its bust once and it could bust again.
Dave

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 23 Aug 2003, 00:07

Tx Dave -
Allways try prooven simple means first [:)]
- & then take it from there [8D]