Timing Belt Change on Xsara Picasso 2.0 HDI

[dippythecow]

Hi,

My wifes Picasso is due for a timing belt change, I've done this twice on my Pug 205 without any problems, but this is my first time with a more complex and less space to work with car. Reading the manual it starts by saying "that unless I have a special tool/equipment to measure the tension on the belt (in SEEMS) , you should not attempt this and take it to your local dealer instead". I don't like thowing in the towel and have in the past taken on jobs from Head gaskets, driveshafts, making up brake pipes, etc.. (All on my 205) is this tool going to stop me in my tracks, or is there a workaround?

I have looked for this tool and you can get one for around £420, near the quote I've got for doing the whole job including the water pump at my local dealer.

[DickieG]

Seem gauges are difficult to find but as an alternative there are other belt tension gauges available, it doesn't have to be made by Seem. Most of us changing timing belts use the twist the belt on its longest run by 90° as a well tried method, I have a couple of Seem gauges and the 90° method isn't far out when I compare the two methods directly.

BTW welcome to FCF

[rory_perrett]

I now somewhat overdue for a cambelt change on my Xantia HDi. Someone got me one of the cam belt tension tools that is calibrated in Nm. As there doesn't seem to be an easy conversion from SEEM to Nm I was going to try and get an indicative reading off the old belt and then fit the new belt and set it the same (or possibly slightly tighter). Although I must say I'm sufficiently old school to be more comfortable with the "twist" test approach. I'm sure all this added complexity, sophistication (and cost) is call progress (and accepting the risk of being called and old curmudgeon) does it really add that much benefit. Ran cars from the 60’s and 70’s to 150,000 miles + without a torque wrench or other “special” tool in sight. Just took the that seems about right approach.

[DickieG]

There's a chart for making SEEM conversion calculations here

[RichardW]

I changed the belt in my HDi 110 Xantia this time last year - write up here: Xantia Cam Belt

I just used the 90deg twist method - done 15k since and it's been fine - in fact it goes better than it did before the belt change at low revs! I've had a preliminary look at the Picasso, as ours will be due later this year (unless I've chopped it in!) - and it doesn't look too bad - although the engine is set back under the scuttle, there actually looks to be quite a lot of room around it. However, looking at it today, access to the flywheel timing hole from above is poor to say the least, so I think getting the pin in there is going to be interesting! Another point to note is that on later cars (service.citroen suggests after 4th Sept 2001) they deleted the vernier cam pulley and went instead to a floating crank sprocket - on these you need to lock the crank before slackening the pulley bolt - I would think this makes the use of an impact driver an essential to fetch out the f tight crank pulley bolt!!

[Peter.N.]

I can't really see the need for a special tool as the belt will loose tension over time anyway, I certainly wouldn't bother with one, use the half turn method suggested, anyone that's done a few belts will know when the tension is right.

Peter

[citroenxm]

Ive done a GOOD few HDI belts now and not used a SEEMS and had no issues. You know when its too tight the engine has a whine noise to it!! You need to slaken it a bit then... the 90 deg twist works fine, but watch for belt flap between the Cam and Pump pullys...

It is however important NOT to get the belt too tight on the HDi, as it uses plastic pullys, unless you upgrade to metal ones in the cam belt kits..

However, a whining engine is not good.. its a bit of faffing around if you do it too tight and have to slaken it.. you NEED the bottom pully on with the engine running to stop the belt running off..

The Older XUD series engines, thats 1.9 and 2.1 engines were designed to have the belt fully tight on all runs.. and were all metal and tough over engineerd units.. these are easy to tension! unfortunally, the HDi isn't.