Xantia hubs - Front and Rear

[vince]

Ok, job number 2 that needs doing.

The last time i got tyres the wheel place threaded both hubs on the drivers side. This means ive got 2 bolts on the front that dont tighten fully and one on the rear. They tighten enough to be safe (they have been like that for over a year) but i want to get them changed over. We stock the hubs at work so thats not a problem, but how involved are they to change over? I need to get my front discs and pads changed so whilst thats ongoing i figured its a good time to get the hub changed. I wont be doing this job due to preferring to leave this to someone else so will be paying for the pleasure.....if i know whats involved then it gives me an idea of what it will cost.

F' in tyre places

Thanks guys
Vince

P.s. also the rear one....how involved is that to change?

[citronut]

the fronts you will require new wheel bearings as when you drift remove the drive fladge, it will almost certainly take the inner innere race out with it,

and the rears flandge and bearing are all one unit

regards malcolm

[CitroJim]

P.s. also the rear one....how involved is that to change?

It's an interesting job. Not hard but you need the tools.. Just done one this morning...

1. Remove caliper noting the difficulty that corroded caliper bolts may cause

2. Remove disc noting that you need a 5.5mm socket for the disc securing screw.

3. Remove dust cover from the hub and relieve the staking on the hub nut. Undo hub nut (40mm and FT). Recover washer behind.

4. Using a standard hub puller, pull off the hub. One inner race will stay on the stub axle.

5. To get the inner race off use a flat bearing puller in conjunction with a two-legged puller working against the stub axle.

6. Reassembly is a reversal of disassembly noting that the new hub needs some force to begin going home. Use a club hammer and a piece of hard wood to start the hub on its way home. As soon as you have some threads visible, use the hub nut and the washer (greased) to send the new hub fully home.

7. Do the hub nut up FT and stake the new hub nut in place. Don't reuse an old nut. Hub kits normally have a new nut.

[vince]

Sounds like a job for the guys who look after our vans then Jim : )

[citroenxm]

P.s. also the rear one....how involved is that to change?

It's an interesting job. Not hard but you need the tools.. Just done one this morning...

1. Remove caliper noting the difficulty that corroded caliper bolts may cause

2. Remove disc noting that you need a 5.5mm socket for the disc securing screw.

3. Remove dust cover from the hub and relieve the staking on the hub nut. Undo hub nut (40mm and FT). Recover washer behind.

4. Using a standard hub puller, pull off the hub. One inner race will stay on the stub axle.

5. To get the inner race off use a flat bearing puller in conjunction with a two-legged puller working against the stub axle.

6. Reassembly is a reversal of disassembly noting that the new hub needs some force to begin going home. Use a club hammer and a piece of hard wood to start the hub on its way home. As soon as you have some threads visible, use the hub nut and the washer (greased) to send the new hub fully home.

7. Do the hub nut up FT and stake the new hub nut in place. Don't reuse an old nut. Hub kits normally have a new nut.

Just to add to Jims brief account, removing rear disks can be one of two, after removing the disk retainer, the disk will either come away nicely, or will be soooooo wel welded or rusted to the hub you WILL need a daammm good lump hammer to get the disk off, which can and has done for me resulted in the friction area shearing off the drum boss...

So really Vince, its new bearings ALL round.. front hub carriers never come away leaving centre bearing carriers in place..


Ive one to do on mums hdi, but think Ill sort a hub off a car then swap it over.. luckilly only one bolt has gone.

I also hate tyre laces, they always over tighten them up.. theres 4 bolts FFS!!

Paul

[CitroJim]

removing rear disks can be one of two, after removing the disk retainer, the disk will either come away nicely, or will be soooooo wel welded or rusted to the hub you WILL need a daammm good lump hammer to get the disk off, which can and has done for me resulted in the friction area shearing off the drum boss...

I find the firm application of percussion for a club hammer is always necessary Paul I aim my blows well away from the friction surface and aim toward the front of the area that covers the hub and ABS ring whilst rotating the disc. This concentrates the effort onto where the disc is stuck to the hub. It really can take a fair few wallops. Never had one break on me yet but I'm surprised it hasn't happened when you consider the amount of percussive abuse some have needed!

[citroenxm]

Ive had TWO break now... one was a customer car, in which I WAS changing the discs anyway, and yesterday, one on a rear subframe which in honesty had been out in the rain for 3 years, also broke...

Paul

[addo]

You blokes must get some weather. They always just lift off, here.

As to the OP's comment about adequacy of the thread - I respectfully disagree. The bolts apply clamping force not just a securing tension; don't fall into the trap of thinking that how the wheel locates on the hub is a primary source of stability. This clamping load is a highly critical aspect of how it all goes together and 1500kg of car performing an emergency manoevre will tax threads/fasteners beyond what they (in this case) may perhaps sustain.