MOT Failure - Handbrake Efficiency 11%

[dandare1980]

Hi,

I went off to Combined Motors in Northampton this morning to run the MOT gauntlet.

(It's a 2001 Mk2 Citroën Xsara Estate 2.0 HDi Auto).

Sadly it failed on a n/s/f track rod end ball joint and more concerning the handbrake which only managed an 11% efficiency (the limit is 16%).

The mechanic who carried out the test believes it needs a new set of discs and pads (he also gave an advisory on surface rust on rear brake discs).

I'm hoping it's as simple as that, however, it doesn't seem that long ago that I did the whole rear axle (is 2 years too long?).

The discs were not unduly thin or uneven and the pads still had more than the legal thickness to them when I checked them yesterday.

The surface rust is probably from where the car doesn't get daily usage, as my wife works from home and does no more than about 6 motorway runs a month.

Are there any other common faults which would result in poor handbrake function, such as cable failure?

I did try adjusting the cable but with no improvement.

Any advice will be most appreciated.

Dan.

p.s. any words of wisdom on the ball-joints would be helpful too as I've never done one.

[jgra1]

ignore..

[Xaccers]

What car?

[dandare1980]

Wooopps!

Completely forgot to mention that content!

It's a 2001 Mk2 Citroen Xsara Estate 2.0 HDi Auto.

Dan.

[qafire]

Hi, I had handbrake woes on my Xantia 1.9d (one cable snapped - they can do at the calliper end) getting the new cable on under the heat shield was a pig (calliper end is easy) but I just adjusted each adjuster up so the wheel still moved ok, yanked the handbrake lever a few times to bed in and it works fine. It seems some MOT places do like to fail Xantias on front discs, mine failed this year despite them being under 10k (and I'm light on brakes) hmmmm.. Anyway beware when removing the callipers to change the discs as they are usually seized and are a sod to remove, plenty of wd40 and use heat carefully as access is from the inside - out. I think everythink needed a 17mm hex drive but the heads were rusty and turned dead easy. Good tip - bleed the front brakes whilst you're on it as that fluid never moves much and goes horrid. A simple job took me ages and ended up with new pipes and allsorts. Nice to know the brakes are now all pukka - but they feel exactly the same. Long winded but I'd be inclined to adjust them up and get it tested at somewhere that isn't looking for work? Hope you won't need them but I had to resort to these Irwin bolt removers in desperation - flippin' excellent worked a treat, I thought it was probably a waste of money - just hammer one on and out she screws! http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000QW6K8I/r ... B000QW6K8I" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CitroJim]

flippin' excellent worked a treat, I thought it was probably a waste of money - just hammer one on and out she screws! http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000QW6K8I/r ... B000QW6K8I" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Those are good Got me out of a sticky many times.. The bolts are T55 Torx and are OK so long as you clean the splines of muck, hammer in the Torx bit to its fullest depth and use a breaker bar on them - gently...

However, all this is not relevant to a Xsara directly. The handbrake works on the rear brakes and the film of rust suggests the calipers are seized and also possibly the handbrake actuation mechanism.

The only answer is to have the calipers off, clean and hopefully free them off. Also check the cables are not seized up. Cables fail because their outer plastic sheaths split and allow water to penetrate and this causes rust and in turn, the cable seizes... They're not hard to replace.

[dandare1980]

CitroJim to my rescue again!

Ok, I'll have to whip them off and take a look. What should I look for to determine they are seized, should I get my other half to stamp the brakes whilst observing movements? Will check the cable for movement at the same time.

Is it worth me still replacing the discs/pads at the same time?

Also, can you recommend a good outlet to buy the handbrake cables from (preferably an inexpensive one at that!).

All these questions..........thanks to everyone for their support, it really is appreciated.

Dan.

[mirafioriman]

I would get someone to operate the handbrake while you watch to see if everything operates as it should. Handbrakes often seize on rear brakes with discs and calipers, sometimes they can be freed off, sometimes not.....

I'm guessing the caliper pistons aren't seized as it only failed on the handbrake.

[dandare1980]

Thanks mirafioriman,

Yes, I think that's a sensible way to proceed.

I think the cables weren't looking too clever when I visually inspected them when changing the rear ABS sensor earlier this week.......

[CitroJim]

I'm guessing the caliper pistons aren't seized as it only failed on the handbrake.

I was thinking the same. If that is the case then it's down to cables or the mechanism within the caliper that operates the handbrake.

A good test is to jack one wheel clear of the ground and get an assistant to press the brake pedal. This should lock the wheel solid if all is good. Repeat the test by pulling on the handbrake and this too should lock the wheel tightly enough that you cannot turn it. How many clicks does the handbrake lever take to before it goes tight?

Repeat for the other side.

Look at both sides of each disc. If one side is shinier than the other then this indicates the caliper slider is seizing and making the pads exert unequal force on the disc. You may also see one pad being worn more than the other.

Rear discs do not work very hard in service and this can be their downfall - seizing and generally becoming poor without you being aware.

Note that when changing pads the pistons have to be wound back in - they are not simply pressed back as fronts are. This is due to there being a ratcheting self-adjusting mechanism within the caliper for the handbrake - this may be damaged or non-operative.

Check handbrake cables by disconnecting them at the caliper ends and checking they both move freely when the handbrake is pulled up.

As Mirafioriman says, you may need new calipers if the old ones cannot be freed off. GSF would be a good source of spares and I believe you have a local branch in Northampton Dan.

[dandare1980]

Excellent information, I'll have a good route around tomorrow and see what I can fathom.

Thank you so much for the help.

Dan.

[citronut]

adjusting the cables will not give more presure/load onto the brakes it will just reduce the omount the lever comes up,

if the cable or the levers on the callipers are not fully returning to there stops when the hand brake is released, the adjusting mechanisum in the callipers will not adjust up properly if at all,

regards malcolm

[mirafioriman]

Strangely enough my Xantia was also flagged with this exact figure of '11% efficiency', the handbrake worked perfectly and has never given any problems. I suspect that the tester was unaware that the handbrake on a Xantia operates on the FRONT wheels and was therefore testing against the rear so i ignored it. Following year, with no work whatsoever, the car was passed by a more competent tester, nil advisories. So there ya' go .....

A handbrake efficiency of 11% isn't an advisory it's a fail

[addo]

As there was mention of rust on the rear discs, I suggest that rear brakes aren't doing much. Does it have a proportioning valve operated off the rear suspension, or is it ABS only?

[citroenxm]

I was immensly smitten yesterday when I picked my S2 Xantia HDi up from MOT with a PASS..

Wait till you all start getting the NEW mot papers, you now get a Brake Efficiency PRINT OUT!!

My hand brake had noyla 20% efficiency DIFFERENCE to the main foot brake!! I think my foot brake was 55% and hand brake 34%!!

Well impressed! They now print out front, rear, left and right readings!! Very handy... Unfortunaly now, advisories are printed ON the test certificate so theres no hiding them now...

I was pleased with my brakes with 194k on the car and nothing done to them this year..

Paul