2000 Xantia Exclusive - rear spheres hard

[Fred du Plessis]

Hello Forum,

I imported an Exclusive from Japan, into Zambia, though my 2nd Xantia, after many DS's.

1) It arrived with a leak on the low pressure return pipes, the driver topped the LHM reservoir with brake-fluid (!, not knowing better). I worked on the leak joint (under car) collecting from the steering column stabilizer. I isolated the stabilizer (now a dummy).

2) The rear started becoming bumpy, since only oil I could find in Zambia is 10W50 to top up with. I need to import LHM from South Africa (nearest). If I replace old oil (now thicker) with true LHM, will it improve? Does it have a connection with the Sportive button and system in the rear? It also appears if the car is running higher in the back, therefor more bumpy (manual settings on height corrector link under the car?)

3) I also observe a minor leak at the front main accumulator, which I see I will have to remove the air filter and some radiator hoses to reach (Very compact) to see where the leak is. I want to see if it is on the pipe connections, or some other place (o-ring?)

4) After solving the leaks, I plan to order a set of spheres. However, I am puzzled by some other X users on the forum, who did the same, and their bumpiness was not resolved. I read softer spheres could be available, to make the ride softer in Zambia (roads are not so good over here)

Could you advise me on above matters, please.

Regards,

[xantia_v6]

My experience of used cars imported from Japan is that by the time they are exported they have had no maintenance done for 4 years, and I would not be surprised if some of your spheres are completely flat.

Check to see if some of your spheres are the long life multi-layer type (probably the 3 front suspension spheres and the main accumulator), these have a reasonable chance of being still useful. Long life spheres have 3 dots (about 3mm diameter) stamped around the filling plug. Your other spheres are likely to be flat.

You might consider finding the parts to make a sphere pressure tester.

Although non-hydroactive spheres can be fitted to soften the ride, I would not recommend it if the roads are really rough, as the car will pitch more and hit the suspension bump stops more often. Standard hydroactive (when working correctly) is quite soft enough on a badly made road.

If your rear suspension height is too high, that should be fixed. It could be that the height corrector assembly is seized, it is possible to remove the pivot assembly and leave the hydraulic part on the car (to avoid disturbing the pipe unions).

You should also try to determine whether the computer is switching the suspension between hard and soft modes. If any electrical fault is detected, it will stay in hard mode.

Good luck, please keep us informed of your progress.

[Xaccers]

I'd also get hold of some Total Hydraurincage (what we call hydroflush) and replace the 10W50 ASAP!


Make sure you bleed the brakes too!
Run on the hydroflush for 1000 miles, then replace it with new LHM+

[addo]

There is a good strong community of Citroën enthusiasts in RSA; if you can get parts through them it will frequently be at a fair price.

LHM will dilute the motor oil effectively, as it is very similar in many ways to 10W engine oil with green dye! You will need to release a few hundred mls when bleeding each brake, in order to fully flush the thicker oil and any residual brake fluid.

Your climate will be causing the hydraulic return lines to fail rapidly; be prepared to improvise solutions as the replacement "harness" is not cheap at all.

[Fred du Plessis]

Thanks to All for the speedy response.

True about Japan Imports. I requested but did not receive last maintenance report, telling a slow leak. But then, I have experience on Citroëns hydraulics since 1972, know some 'nitty gritties' and will approach with care.

Source of OIL: Breakthrough! I found an Oil Co in my town(surprise of the year) LHM PLUS (Titan ZH), made by FUCHS. the spec compares correctly for PSA vehicles.

LHM Plus TITAN ZH

However, I need to address the Main Accu oil leak, before replacing the oil. How? Removing the air filter box above, to be able to see?
(I have not been able to find V6 Workshop Manual, am grateful to the forum to have assistance in this manner)
Spheres: I ordered for my 2L Xantia from Westroën Manchester UK in 2008. Looked at eBay. Will order from Westroën again.

HC: I inspected the rear HC. (Made a ramp some weeks ago) took the car onto the ramp, lowered the height and took a snap of the lowest position.
The car responded correctly, the body went down. But when I inspected the operation(I had the rod clamp totally loose), it felt as if the HC was not responding to my efforts, so I need to remove/loosen/service it this Saturday (car regular daily runner)

side view of HC car in lowest position, spring pushed backwards. What is the other link that connects to same? Sportive override?

Fuses:
When the car arrived (it was a coastal car in Japan), I experienced loose fuses (under console). Printed the legend, will check one-by-one for firmness contact, suspect Sportive is not working (when pushing button, LED does not light up like window lock, (or Cruise Speed Control, by the way another part which is not kicking in, but I found info on the forum, will check it out, lower priority)

Thanks, for so far...

[Fred du Plessis]

To All,
Quick update on the oil leak in the front of the car.
I found the culprit leak, just under the Air Filter Box, hiding for me.

Before

Pics show before, and after.

After, with what was available on a Sat afternoon

I can now replace the 10W oil with LHM!

SOFT/NORMAL
The SPORT button does nothing, fuses OK, but LED is not lighting up. Does somebody perhaps have a circuit diagram for this? (no trace in Haynes diagrams) Solenoid in front found. Does it work with a timer upon opening/closing door?

[addo]

If you were further south, that would be called a "rooinek" repair, I think...

CitroJim has the schematics; there are a few reasons the Hydractive can fail including hard (flat) spheres, dead transistors on the control board and - as you mention - fuse/relay issues. All are easily enough fixed.

Not sure on your budget but if you can afford the Valprex system then you could repressurise spheres easily with a locally sourced bottle of nitrogen (or even borrow the N2 bottle off an airconditioning tech). Otherwise I am confident you could have spheres regassed by one of the club branches in RSA.

[Fred du Plessis]

Thanks Addo.
Leak Repair: did with what I could find in my 'back yard',
Rooinek: since I am French surname, German first names, born in South Africa and known as Boertjie (and this species is known for make a plan, be a master of many trades,
Flat Spheres: I reckon I need to do the hard spheres in December, and in meantime contact Jim for Schematics.
(Read up his historical post last night. Some Gurus out there, who perhaps knows more than Cit Workshops. )
Until later... ...

[CitroJim]

That's a very common place for a V6 to spring a leak... I like your repair

[myglaren]

Thanks Addo.
Leak Repair: did with what I could find in my 'back yard',
Rooinek: since I am French surname, German first names, born in South Africa and known as Boertjie (and this species is known for make a plan, be a master of

That's a seriously multicultural background Fred!

[Fred du Plessis]

Gents,

I found the next culprit.

The steering column shock absorber came wit some sort of plastic boot, which was perished in Japan.
The pipes have been ripped out, and the return connections were left UN-attended.
I plugged it with spare piece of pipe.

Open ended pipe for stabiliser

AND I bought 1 ltr LHM today, to top up with the true and one and only oil for the Xantia Hydraulic System.

[Fred du Plessis]

That's a very common place for a V6 to spring a leak... I like your repair

Hello Jim

Addo wrote"CitroJim has the schematics" for the Hydro-active sport / normal drive.
Can you please help me with it?
It could be that I need to remove front and rear, and check them out for stiffness in the solenoid valve. ?

[Fred du Plessis]

That's a very common place for a V6 to spring a leak... I like your repair

Hello Jim

Addo wrote"CitroJim has the schematics" for the Hydro-active sport / normal drive.
Can you please help me with it?
It could be that I need to remove front and rear, and check them out for stiffness in the solenoid valve. ?

CITROJIM,
CAN YOU HELP ON THIS NEED, PLEASE? THE X IS NOW SOLD IN THE BACK.
WHEN STARTING IT EARLY MORNING, IT SINKS DOWN IN THE BACK AND LIFTS, AND THEN SOLID.
IT IS AS IF IT POSITIONS HIGHER IN THE BACK, BUT LOOKING AT THE BOTTOM, THE CAR PAN IS EVENLY HIGH FRONT VERSUS FRONT.

[Fred du Plessis]

Friends on the Forum,

I imported set of rear spheres from Westroen, UK via my daughter, and installed, BUT....

when I removed the spheres as per other posts and instructions received from Westroen, I discovered / observed / experienced the following:-
1) X was up in the air in the bck, not wanting to go down, suspected Hydractive Valve (the overrid swith in the car LED does not lit up when pushed, fuses are OK, need / seek diagram to do fault finding...
2) The spheres came off relatively easy,
3) Oil was darkish, due to SAE15W40 added in absence of LHM in Zambia (now have source in my town, GREAT)
4) Drained tank, washed, re-assembled.
5) Found previous backyard job pipe softened, and jumped off, leaking 1 1/2 litre of Green Gold onto road, no power steering or breaks, luckaly near my house, replaced with better, and clamped, hope it will now last (may need to buy correct sections of pipe, and replace)
6) Found ANTI-SINK shpere dry (not a drop of LHM in it, rusted) ?????
7) Found HC smuggy (sediment inside) like on Forum Postage, stripped, cleaned, primed with LHM, assembled. Connector nuts troubled me for not being 8 spanner anymore, but managed

Re assembly went with difficulty
1) spheres - easy
2) Oil - easy
3) HC - centralising spring gave me trouble, did not have special spanner (saw pic on forum post linked, downloaded, printed) but managed at last,

When starting and topping up oil,
1) rear would not lift. went under, undid link rod from adjusting system (inside car), operated/moved HC by hand to see change, LHM was coming out of the end cap on the front, BUT I could see car wants to lift, even with leak,
2) went back to PICs I took, and drawings, and can not recollect how this is possible to wrongly assemble HC.
3) parked the car in the garage.

Question(s)
1) why was the anti-sink dry?
2) why did car stay high before I changed the spheres and oil (was it the engine oil viscousity which was thicker, I think)
3) how is it possible that oil can come out by the front end of the HC? I will check, however... disc in place, rubber diapgrams in place, cover and clamps in place)
4) Hydractive Valve - do I need to strip it? Is it stuck also from no oil? Is it because of wiring error, coil burnt, etc? If I jump Fuse Box, what can I measure (suspect dashboard switch or fuse or wire connection error)

Hear from you, please

[xantia_v6]

Failure of the suspension to rise can be caused by a leakage (external or internal) that causes the system pressure to drop to the point where the anti-sink valve does not open.

The hydroactive valve will not generally stop the car rising. I would advise to leave the hydroactive valve alone until you are sure that the electrical part of the hydroactive system is OK.