Just pipe it up the same as the ecu boost controller, and make sure you leave it wired up and stick it behind the o/s strut top out of the way.
Is your controller a bleed type or seated ball type?
Deanxm wrote:Just pipe it up the same as the ecu boost controller, and make sure you leave it wired up and stick it behind the o/s strut top out of the way.
Is your controller a bleed type or seated ball type?
D
By pipe it up the same as ECU boost controller I guessing you mean small bore pipe that goes into top of dump valve??
Just looked it up and I think it's Seated ball type, I will also need a Gauge for the pressure as well I think.
David
06 C5 2.0L HDi Exclusive Estate 20020k and rising.
1987 Citroen CX Prestige. De Corps Brun Maya - cuir blond tabac, très chic
08 Jaguar X-Type 3.0V6 Sovereign Estate - Green (HGZ) - Leather Ivory seats.
The ecu boost controller is on the drivers side mounted next to the strut top, it has a brown multiplug on it and 3 small bore rubber pipes disconnect the pipes but leave the controller plugged in.
One pipe goes to the waste gate actuator down the back of the engine, the other goes to the boost pipe just before the throttle at the front of the engine the 3 rd one is just an exhaust that runs back into the intake, remove this pipe and blank off the small fitting on the intake.
Now connect the new valve inline with the first two pipes.
You do idealy need a boost guage to set it all up properly and make sure you are not getting any boost spikes etc etc but you can use a compressor set the valve to 10psi prior to fitting it to the car for a rough setting if you dont have one handy at the time, if you overboost you will just get an eml and the fuel gets cut so you wont do any damage in the short term.
please no K-seal, its not a powertrain Engine , get some of that other stuff, that i cant remember now........................you know, the stuff your cant buy unless your in the trade...........
Deanxm wrote:please no K-seal, its not a powertrain Engine , get some of that other stuff, that i cant remember now........................you know, the stuff your cant buy unless your in the trade...........
Forte Stop Leak.
25 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
23 BMW iX3 M Sport Pro
23 Jeep Avenger
13 Ram 1500 Hemi
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH
Deanxm wrote:you know, the stuff your cant buy unless your in the trade...........
D
Forte Stop Leak. Often to be found lurking on eBay...
Please don't use K-Seal as I have a suspicion it causes the heater matrix connector to be come almost impossible to separate. Same may well apply to any other sealer except Forte.
I've used Forte in the past to stave off the dreaded day of a matrix change and the joint came apart fairly readily in that case...
A heater matrix isnt so bad, all you have to do is get the interior out, and the scuttle off and get to the elbow and not break it, i dont know what all the fuss is about .
for what its worth i'll wade in as well DON'T use K seal, its a total PITA to get back out again. Use either Forte Stop Leak (ebay) OR change the matrix, if you're lucky you'll be able to pop the heater matrix elbow off easily (i've found it easier with a roasting engine, move stuff out of your way first and you'll have much better access and you can give it a straighter pull) use a Valeo matrix as well, the pattern ones do fit but it becomes more effort. The matrix isnt a hard job to do really, just long, nothing to complex to it. I would offer to help you with it but i've just been called away to work in Cambodia for the next 6 months.
2006 C5 HDi 170
1998 Xantia Activa S1
1971 D Special
2018 Renault Zoe,
Chris570 wrote: I would offer to help you with it but i've just been called away to work in Cambodia for the next 6 months.
Come on Chris, you're restoring an XM - that job makes a Xantia heater matrix look like a Sunday afternoon snooze
If it wasn't for that bloody elbow then it would not be a bad job at all. David, between us we can give loads of advice following many experiences of this job
and discovered I now have a leaking Heater Matrix 
