Help! HDi 110 crank timing hole

[dnsey]

I've replaced the cambelt on my 2001 C5 2.0 HDi today.
Despite reading all I could find on the subject, I couldn't find the crank timing hole. No problem - I marked the crank pulley and crankcase with Tippex and got on with the job.
However, the old belt had evidently stretched, and was very slack. Now, when the new belt is at the right tension (in my judgement), the timing looks to be a tooth out. With the belt as slack as the old one, it looks OK.
Can some one please tell me how to find the flywheel timing hole? I've looked everywhere, but I just can't find it. I've seen references to 'opposite the driveshaft' and 'behind the starter motor', but I can't see anything that looks likely! Is it at the 'front' of the engine (as mounted), or the rear? Above or through the steel cover plate for the flywheel?
Please could someone tell me where it is in simple, clear terms (or even better with a picture showing the context)? Thanks very much!

[Peter.N.]

I believe this is basically an XUD block in which case the hole is behind the starter - but you can't see it without removing the it. What I do is to bend a wire coathanger into a starting handle shape (if you remember those) and slide it along behind the starter, if you get it the right length its not to difficult to locate the hole.

Peter

[dnsey]

Thanks Peter, I think I've found it!
There was a connector cleverly positioned to obstruct any view of it
I think I'll need to remove the starter to get at it though - I've tried a bent rod, but there isn't enough space to get it square to the hole.
Time for another go tomorrow

[DickieG]

It can be difficult to find on an HDi even though its in the same position as an XUD, I have the specific tool from Facom for doing the job but find that using a long length of copper brake pipe works best as you can tweak it to whatever shape you like.

[citronut]

i also use a length of copper brake pipe firstly as Richards says you can keep bending it easily till you get the right formular, which i find id a length about 3 to 4 inch's bent at a right angle, then the longer length (maybe 12 inch's ) bend a curve to fit around th back of the starter motor, bend the remainder to suite,

the other reason i use copper brake pipe is if you forget to remove it before cranking the engine, you can still yank the timming pin out even after its bent round the inside of the crank case by the fly wheel

also you cant go by your tipex mark if the old belt was very slack,


regards malcolm

[dnsey]

Thanks all - got the job done today.
I had to do it twice, though - the first time I used a bent soft metal rod (old knitting needle), which seemed to drop into the timing hole OK and lock the crank. However, having replaced the timing covers, crank pulley etc, on trying the engine, it fired occasionally, but wouldn't run - clearly a tooth out.
After taking everything apart again, I thought I'd play it safe, and removed the starter motor so that I could reach up from underneath and fit a 'proper' pin. Interestingly, although I was sure I had it right this time, with a good tight run between crank and camshaft sprockets, by the time I'd turned it over a few times it was quite a long way out, but with just enough compensation on the vernier sprocket.
Started and sounds OK. Just need to fit the aux belt, bleed the cooling system (which I've flushed and refilled) and put all the plastic bits and pieces back. Glad I took tomorrow off work in case of any problems!