correct procedure for bleeding/priming hydraulics

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DublinChris
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correct procedure for bleeding/priming hydraulics

Post by DublinChris »

:( My mechanic removed steering rack to fix leak at pinion basically getting seals replaced. He has put it all back together but still appears to have some air trapped in system and reports steering being heavier than normal. Car seems to be driving otherwise ok and is rising and lowering ok. I know this is a lazy question and there is probably a good thread somewhere but can anyone advise on correct bleed procedure?

Many thanks
Chris
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Post by myglaren »

Usually turning the steering wheel fully to one side, wait a few seconds then fully to the opposite lock and again wait a few seconds, repeat a few times. This should eliminate any trapped air.
DublinChris
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Post by DublinChris »

myglaren wrote:Usually turning the steering wheel fully to one side, wait a few seconds then fully to the opposite lock and again wait a few seconds, repeat a few times. This should eliminate any trapped air.
Silly question I know but would that be with suspension on standard height setting and would bleed screw be opened?
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Post by citronut »

what year/modle car is this and what is the mileage,

if a XANT or any full hydraulic citroen as myglaren (Steve says) full lock to lock several times, and on normal hight will be fine,

if the car is on its highest setting the steering will be very tight/heavy,
as the struts will be pumped up solid,


other cause's can be dirty tank filters, slack hydraulic pump belt, FDV ( power steering flow valve on early cars ), or if high milage the hydraulic pump getting tired,


regards malcolm
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Post by VertVega »

DublinChris wrote:... would that be with suspension on standard height setting and would bleed screw be opened?
Bleeding Brakes (in brief):
- Engine running,
- Suspension to highest,
- Brake pedal pressed,
- Bleed (transparent hose and a jar),
- Check LHM level after each and top up LHM if necessary.

If there is green blood in your car then you should read this thread in How To.
First page, first message tells it all 8-) --> Spheres, Hydraflush and Brake Bleeding
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DublinChris
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Post by DublinChris »

citronut wrote:what year/modle car is this and what is the mileage,

if a XANT or any full hydraulic Citroën as myglaren (Steve says) full lock to lock several times, and on normal hight will be fine,

if the car is on its highest setting the steering will be very tight/heavy,
as the struts will be pumped up solid,


other cause's can be dirty tank filters, slack hydraulic pump belt, FDV ( power steering flow valve on early cars ), or if high milage the hydraulic pump getting tired,


regards malcolm
1998 series 2 turbo diesel with 142k miles up. problem started with leaking steering pinion and I needed to replace track rod ends and wheel bearings. My mechanic dropped steering rack out of car and sent it off to specialist to recondition seals. On refitting he has had the problem of air and cant seem to bleed if off successfully. Can hear it in steering and feels steering is a bit heavier( stiffer?) than normal :?
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Post by DublinChris »

VertVega wrote:
DublinChris wrote:... would that be with suspension on standard height setting and would bleed screw be opened?
Bleeding Brakes (in brief):
- Engine running,
- Suspension to highest,
- Brake pedal pressed,
- Bleed (transparent hose and a jar),
- Check LHM level after each and top up LHM if necessary.

If there is green blood in your car then you should read this thread in How To.
First page, first message tells it all 8-) --> Spheres, Hydraflush and Brake Bleeding
Found the topic but just to confirm my issue is with air affecting steering so I assume what you are describing as procedure for brakes is not necessary to do for steering.
Chris
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Post by VertVega »

My answer was to your question concerning the bleed screw.
I think you meant the pressure release screw on the regulator in front (?).

follow myglaren's advice for steering wheel then:
"Usually turning the steering wheel fully to one side, wait a few seconds then
fully to the opposite lock and again wait a few seconds, repeat a few times. This should eliminate any trapped air
."

Are you sure that "specialist" is a real specialist? The O-ring seals must be placed in correct grooves.
If not the fluid circulation will not be correct.

EDIT: Google search with words "Xantia pinion kit" and checking the pics will give good links
for steering pinion cases (and O-ring seals) :)
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DublinChris
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Post by DublinChris »

VertVega wrote:My answer was to your question concerning the bleed screw.
I think you meant the pressure release screw on the regulator in front (?).
I confess to not being fully up to speed! Its all a learning curve! Yes I think you are correct I was picking up on other posts which referred to a bleed screw :oops:

Are you sure that "specialist" is a real specialist? The O-ring seals must be placed in correct grooves.
If not the fluid circulation will not be correct.

You helped me previously to correctly identify my leak as coming from steering pinion. The steering rack was dropped out and sent to a genuine specialist here in Dublin to recondition it and I am happy with that aspect.Work only done last week as could not take car off road until then. Problem was on reassembly that there was/is some trapped air.

EDIT: Google search with words "Xantia pinion kit" and checking the pics will give good links
for steering pinion cases (and O-ring seals) :)
I got excellent pics and advice from the forum -as usual- when researching the problem. :D
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Post by VertVega »

Yes, now I remembered your case :)
It was easy to identify according to the symptoms, How do I know :roll:

Best would be then, myglaren's advice and a couple of citrobics which also naturally gets
the trapped air off the system (except the dead end brake lines :wink: ).
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Post by citronut »

unless you have been sold a dodgy re/coned rack/pinion,


regards malcolm
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Post by DublinChris »

VertVega wrote:Yes, now I remembered your case :)
It was easy to identify according to the symptoms, How do I know :roll:

Best would be then, myglaren's advice and a couple of citrobics which also naturally gets
the trapped air off the system (except the dead end brake lines :wink: ).
:oops: I noticed a few references to "citrobics" in some other posts :oops: Can you explain what this means? :?
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Post by VertVega »

Hi, "Citrobics" is a word derived from Aerobics :) (from Jane Fonda days :wink:)
Of course when a green blooded Citroen is concerned it is then called Citrobics 8-)

Engine running, level control to highest position, pause and then to lowest position, pause.
Doing this a couple of times will be Citrobics.

Member called Gingerposer had a very nice instructions for this.
It gave me big laugh when I first read it :D :D I might add it if I find it in FCF.

-----------------------------------------------------

EDIT:Here it is:
Gingerposer wrote:Fill kettle. Brew tea/coffee. Sit in car, engine running. Set suspension to high. Sip tea/coffee (biscuit optional). Wait til car has stabilised at max height. Wait a minute or so. Sip tea etc. Set suspension to low. Warning, car may lower suddenly at either end, so don't sip tea/coffee at this point. Once car has settled at lowest setting, resume sipping. Wait a minute or so, then set suspension to high and repeat the process a couple of times.

Jaffa cakes seem to help.
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citronut
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Post by citronut »

on older green blooded citroens, pre all these complications they added to cars XM's onwards,

citroen used to state in OE workshop manuals,
after working on the hydraulic systen to let the engine idle for two min's with the regulator bleed valve open, then hold the rev's at around 2.5K whilst closeing the bleed valve,


regards malcolm
DublinChris
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Post by DublinChris »

:lol: Getting Tea and Jaffa cakes out - to be sure :lol:
Thanks Jane Fonda will be my inspiration :wink:
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