XUD 1.9 TD Xantia Timing Belt Coolant pump change - any tips

ecohouse1 · Unread post by **ecohouse1** » 03 Oct 2011, 15:56

Hi
I am planning on doing my timing belt and have also bought a coolant pump to stick in there while I am at it.

I changed the belt on the Xsara DW8 unit a couple of years ago, but any tips on making the Xant as easy as poss?..........

Access looks tight!

Thanks in advance

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Oct 2011, 18:47

If you've done the job on a DW8 then I'm pleased to say the job is easier on the Xantia. The only PITA is the 11mm timing cover bolt that hides underneath one of the turbo pipes and is hard to get to with normal tools... A crescent shaped spanner is your friend for this...

The usual aggro might be found in getting the crank pulley off but apart from that it's generally good and access isn't really a huge problem.

The BoL (Haynes) actually describes it fairly well by their standards..

Any problems, we're here...

lukkis · Unread post by **lukkis** » 04 Oct 2011, 07:06

Also so the "special tool" is good described. The timing peg hole is somewhere under the starter motor, it might be hard to find, but it's there. Also the turbo piping has to be taken off, there is one bolt (10 mm head) on the back of the engine. Easy to spot with fingers running along the pipe starting from the turbo. Don't remember if it advised on the BoL, but improves accessibility a lot. Don't forget to cover the turbos outlet...

Xantidote · Unread post by **Xantidote** » 04 Oct 2011, 09:37

As Jim says, the PITA is the 11mm timing cover bolt.

I just pull the turbo pipes out of the way, rather than remove, though I'm sure removal makes for easier access to do the job.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 04 Oct 2011, 10:19

The MASSIVE advantage of the XUD which never changed in the engines life is the age of design...

All the pullys are of Metal and are "properly" made.. Ive not yet heard of a failed tensioner or idler pully on the Cam Belt

Ive never changed one yet, and my current Xantia with 240k (well, resting for the time being) is possibly on her originals - and when I checked them at 200k there was NO play in them.. None of this plastic rubbish

The second is the belt tensioning Thats also simple.. Its a spring loaded arm setup DIFFERENTLY to the DW8.. Theres two securing bolts.. both 13mm .. One on the Pivot.. the other is hidden below the Cam Pully.. Slacken it with a swing action towards the rear of the engine and nip up the pivot bolt.

Once the belt is in place.. LET IT GO! There tensioned! Yes. It needs to be tight.. not like the DW were if its too tight the engine wines..

One of the easyest one to tension the XUD..

Paul

NB: Im NOT advising you do not replace the pullys. That IS your choice. It depends on your milage really.

ecohouse1 · Unread post by **ecohouse1** » 04 Oct 2011, 23:06

thanks Chaps

I intend to tackle as soon as I get dry day!!

Always feel much happier when I have changed the belt especially when I don't know when this one was last done.

I remember taking the DW8 one off and it looked like new!!! Mind you better safe than sorry!

Alan

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 05 Oct 2011, 08:14

Paul its a bolt and a nut secureing the XUD tentioner i know you know that

,

the nut is on the pivot post/stud,

all the DW cam belts i have done i have had to shoe horn the belt into place, even with the tentioner full off,

regards malcolm

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 05 Oct 2011, 10:05

Its STILL a 13mm head on both of the "Securing" Heads!

Thanks Malc

Paul

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 05 Oct 2011, 13:24

yep that is correct Paul

regards malcolm

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 05 Oct 2011, 13:55

I've only ever come across one slightly noisy tensioner (idler I think it was) on an XUD in all the belt changes I've done.

Unread post by **RichardW** » 05 Oct 2011, 13:59

It's also best not to tighten the top nut only finger tight, nipping the skin on the egde of your finger behind the flange on the nut, and then letting go of the spring tensioner, which the nut is not tight enough to hold, so it springs back, and removes a large piece of the side of your finger

Ouch.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 05 Oct 2011, 19:19

RichardW wrote:so it springs back, and removes a large piece of the side of your finger

Ouch.

how much do you call a large piece of you finger Richard,

i bet Chris Salters DS had more of my little pinky, only down to the second knukle

regards malcolm

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 06 Oct 2011, 12:45

mirror on stick, and torch, very useful for many hard to see bits

John

Unread post by **myglaren** » 06 Oct 2011, 17:28

jgra1 wrote:mirror on stick, and torch, very useful for many hard to see bits

John

I don't know if they still have them but ALDI were selling an endoscope type thingy for inspecting hard to get to locations. Camera & screen, fibre optic probe with LED illumination at the business end.

Foggyoutcome · Unread post by **Foggyoutcome** » 07 Oct 2011, 22:28

When i changed mine i did the sprocket seal on the pump as well.
Might as well for £12 i got the seal for. They are normally the first to go as well.