GSF PART NUMBERS?
Moderator: RichardW
you get a new sphere seal with each new sphere, AMTEC anyhow which i never use as i feel they feel to soft compaired to OE seals with the green outter face,
if you still require some sphere seals send me your postal address and i will stick some in the post bforyou,
how many do you want ,
regards malcolm
if you still require some sphere seals send me your postal address and i will stick some in the post bforyou,
how many do you want ,
regards malcolm
- CitroJim
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Mike, if the Activa sphere had no pressure behind it, it'll be a good idea to check the Activa accumulator under the battery tray.. It may be a bit pancake-like unless you've already replaced it....
Just ask Chris570superloopy1 wrote: What's all this about them being a b**ger to remove
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- CitroJim
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The Activa accumulator, under the battery tray, looks like an anti-sink sphere so it will need a 4.5mm seal to go with it. It's a 'Martin Special' as it needs to be inflated to 62 bars.
That too is the one also that is best attacked by removing it complete with bracket so that it can be attacked in a vice. Where it hides it's often forgotten and that's the basis on which I judge it might be flat... If the Activa Balancing sphere (the SC-CAR AR one) at the back was then it's a fair bet the accumulator is too...
The relationship between them is that the Activa Accumulator is a reserve of pressure for the Activa system and is fed from the top of the security valve so it won't start to charge until full system pressure is reached. It's the first to be isolated when the main system pressure falls and thus normally there is always a lot of pressure in the Activa system even after opening the main pressure regulator bleed valve. This is what makes it hard to remove the SC-CAR sphere at the rear...
The purpose of the Activa Balancing sphere (SC-CAR AR) is to act as a spring between the anti-roll bars. If it's flat you'll have a hard ride. The Activa electrovalve switches this sphere in and out for gentle and aggressive roll correction as required. Aggressive roll correction makes the bars very stiff and hence a hard ride.
The Hydractive centre spheres at both ends are normal accumulator-type spheres that screw directly into sphere blocks and are always hard to remove due to them always having some pressure trapped behind them. The front will be found to be either perfectly good or ruptured and the rear one may well be flat.
For the Hydractives you need a good tool and some percussive effort (from a big hammer) to remove them. They're tight only because of trapped pressure behind them...
Hope that helps a bit Mike...
That too is the one also that is best attacked by removing it complete with bracket so that it can be attacked in a vice. Where it hides it's often forgotten and that's the basis on which I judge it might be flat... If the Activa Balancing sphere (the SC-CAR AR one) at the back was then it's a fair bet the accumulator is too...
The relationship between them is that the Activa Accumulator is a reserve of pressure for the Activa system and is fed from the top of the security valve so it won't start to charge until full system pressure is reached. It's the first to be isolated when the main system pressure falls and thus normally there is always a lot of pressure in the Activa system even after opening the main pressure regulator bleed valve. This is what makes it hard to remove the SC-CAR sphere at the rear...
The purpose of the Activa Balancing sphere (SC-CAR AR) is to act as a spring between the anti-roll bars. If it's flat you'll have a hard ride. The Activa electrovalve switches this sphere in and out for gentle and aggressive roll correction as required. Aggressive roll correction makes the bars very stiff and hence a hard ride.
The Hydractive centre spheres at both ends are normal accumulator-type spheres that screw directly into sphere blocks and are always hard to remove due to them always having some pressure trapped behind them. The front will be found to be either perfectly good or ruptured and the rear one may well be flat.
For the Hydractives you need a good tool and some percussive effort (from a big hammer) to remove them. They're tight only because of trapped pressure behind them...
Hope that helps a bit Mike...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- CitroJim
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Mike,
Here's the official Activa Sphere table:
The Activa balancing Sphere (Called the SC-CAR Regulator) is a conventional block mounted sphere whereas the Activa Accumulator looks like the Anti-Sink, hence grouped together...
A weak main accumulator can often be found to use as an Activa balancing sphere as it's quite lowly pressured at 30 bars...
So, you have a Technosir? Excellent, I'm envious A good thing to have with an Activa or two, that's for sure.
You'll find a big difference once all the spheres are good, Activas are very critical of sphere pressures.
Here's the official Activa Sphere table:
The Activa balancing Sphere (Called the SC-CAR Regulator) is a conventional block mounted sphere whereas the Activa Accumulator looks like the Anti-Sink, hence grouped together...
A weak main accumulator can often be found to use as an Activa balancing sphere as it's quite lowly pressured at 30 bars...
So, you have a Technosir? Excellent, I'm envious A good thing to have with an Activa or two, that's for sure.
You'll find a big difference once all the spheres are good, Activas are very critical of sphere pressures.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- CitroJim
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Some say 20 bars but as you have the kit Mike, anything is worth a try. If the sphere tester registers a tad of residual pressure then it's worth a shot. I'd say 5 bars...
I know Robert Smart has regassed spheres using the Tecnosir and he may be able to suggest the best way to open the plug. I'd say slowly, very slowly and let the nitrogen escape very gently...
Eye protection would be well recommended though...
I know Robert Smart has regassed spheres using the Tecnosir and he may be able to suggest the best way to open the plug. I'd say slowly, very slowly and let the nitrogen escape very gently...
Eye protection would be well recommended though...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- DickieG
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For a more detailed sphere chart including the size of damper holes look here then click "Technics" in the left column followed by "Technical Data" followed by not surprisingly "Sphere's"
13 Ram 1500 Hemi
14 BMW 535D Tourer
19 BMW i3s
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH
14 BMW 535D Tourer
19 BMW i3s
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH