My battery has leaked (I think I overfilled it on one of my regular top ups (idiot!)) and so I have some nasty deposits undernath and around the battery. A guy told me to heat a kettle of water up and pour over the areas and then told me to cover it with some wax or grease or something (WD40?). I cannot remember what he said so has anyone some suggestions?
Also I'm going to get a new battery - are they easy to fit back in and do ones that say maintenance free mean you never have to top them up with water as I have to at the moment?
Leaked battery
Moderator: RichardW
Hi there.
To answer your queries in order:-
1. The hot water will remove any acidic deposits and the 'furring' that occurs around batteries. Make sure however that you dilute any runoff well as it will, effectively, be dilute acid. Dry the area thoroughly afterwards and apply a protective coating of some sort.
2. Batteries are easy to replace. Just ensure that the correct terminals are fitted to the correct leads. The positive battery post(+) is always slightly larger then the negative (-) post. Match them to any marking on the cables. Also, fit the (+) lead first as, if you accidentally touch metal with the spanner nothing will happen as earth isn't yet connected. Earth of course is pretty safe so we do that last. You'll need a 10mm spanner by the way for the posts and a 13mm spanner for the retaining claw that holds the battery in its tray.....
3. Topping-up modern batteries hasn't been completely obviated - there are a number of factors that will lead to a shortage of electrolyte such as high ambient temperatures or an overcharging alternator. Most 'sealed for life' batteries have little vapour traps in them that prevent the loss of electrolyte by evaporation. However, they are usually quite amenable to having their cells topped off is necessary, but don't overdo it........OK?[:p]
Hope that helps.......[:)]
To answer your queries in order:-
1. The hot water will remove any acidic deposits and the 'furring' that occurs around batteries. Make sure however that you dilute any runoff well as it will, effectively, be dilute acid. Dry the area thoroughly afterwards and apply a protective coating of some sort.
2. Batteries are easy to replace. Just ensure that the correct terminals are fitted to the correct leads. The positive battery post(+) is always slightly larger then the negative (-) post. Match them to any marking on the cables. Also, fit the (+) lead first as, if you accidentally touch metal with the spanner nothing will happen as earth isn't yet connected. Earth of course is pretty safe so we do that last. You'll need a 10mm spanner by the way for the posts and a 13mm spanner for the retaining claw that holds the battery in its tray.....
3. Topping-up modern batteries hasn't been completely obviated - there are a number of factors that will lead to a shortage of electrolyte such as high ambient temperatures or an overcharging alternator. Most 'sealed for life' batteries have little vapour traps in them that prevent the loss of electrolyte by evaporation. However, they are usually quite amenable to having their cells topped off is necessary, but don't overdo it........OK?[:p]
Hope that helps.......[:)]
I got around to doing this yesterday. All the deposits nicely gone, mopped up with kitchen roll wrapped around screwdriver, and then sprayed with WD40. Went out later. When I returned home, I found my drive is now discoloured a rust colour (I reckon it could be some WD40 that has run off). Has anyone any suggestions of what will budge it as her indoors is not pleased?
PS Checking the battery, I reckon its OK and I overfilled with the de-onised water once. So at least I won't have to buy all those spanners ...
PS Checking the battery, I reckon its OK and I overfilled with the de-onised water once. So at least I won't have to buy all those spanners ...
Hi again Leonardo - glad you got the job done. See! It was easy wasn't it? We'll have you doing head gaskets in no time!! [:D]
You can buy a product called (I believe) "Drive Clean" or similar - it's designed to remove unsightly marks from drives (strange, huh?). However, a small caveat - make sure the runoff doesn't encompass the lawn or a favourite plant as it'll terminate it quicker than a cat on a rat!! [;)]
You can buy a product called (I believe) "Drive Clean" or similar - it's designed to remove unsightly marks from drives (strange, huh?). However, a small caveat - make sure the runoff doesn't encompass the lawn or a favourite plant as it'll terminate it quicker than a cat on a rat!! [;)]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JamesQB</i>
Apparently cola is good for getting such things off driveways... It is a very strong substance, contains phosphoric acid.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Do you mind, James? My daughters are actually <b>DRINKING</b> this stuff right now (shudder!) What are you trying to <b>Do</b> to me? Hmmm???
Apparently cola is good for getting such things off driveways... It is a very strong substance, contains phosphoric acid.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Do you mind, James? My daughters are actually <b>DRINKING</b> this stuff right now (shudder!) What are you trying to <b>Do</b> to me? Hmmm???
To get rid of the white hairy stuff left behind by batteries, use some bi-carb of soda in some warm water & just pour some on it. You'll find it then just foams up & can be hosed off.
WD40 as a rust preventative...ah, no. Too watery, evaporates and whilst it does what it's designed for, penetrates into threads of rusty bolts, rustproofing isn't what it was designed for.
Lanolin or fish oil based anti-rust paints are & will do the job properly in the long term.
Rust on the driveway can often be moved by scrubbing with warm water laced with a chlorine based bleach. It doesn't happen immediately but will tend to work after a while with the sun shining on it; something you guys are getting a bit of at present they tell me.[8D]
Alan S
WD40 as a rust preventative...ah, no. Too watery, evaporates and whilst it does what it's designed for, penetrates into threads of rusty bolts, rustproofing isn't what it was designed for.
Lanolin or fish oil based anti-rust paints are & will do the job properly in the long term.
Rust on the driveway can often be moved by scrubbing with warm water laced with a chlorine based bleach. It doesn't happen immediately but will tend to work after a while with the sun shining on it; something you guys are getting a bit of at present they tell me.[8D]
Alan S
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Linegeist</i>
We'll have you doing head gaskets in no time!! [:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Oough what are they then? I can't wait to roll my sleeves up and get stuck in! [:D]
I did try bleaching the drive, scrubbing it in and leaving it. Unfortunately that didn't do the work. I'm banned by the wife from doing an oil change in case I get oil on the drive too ...
I was thinking of longer term doing a paint job under the bonnet anyway as the acid ate through some of the paint work.
Thanks for all the advice.
We'll have you doing head gaskets in no time!! [:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Oough what are they then? I can't wait to roll my sleeves up and get stuck in! [:D]
I did try bleaching the drive, scrubbing it in and leaving it. Unfortunately that didn't do the work. I'm banned by the wife from doing an oil change in case I get oil on the drive too ...
I was thinking of longer term doing a paint job under the bonnet anyway as the acid ate through some of the paint work.
Thanks for all the advice.