Ive changed the fob battery for the Xantia remote.
The manual instructions are....
Turn on ignition and operate keyfob.
Well i do that and nothing happens!
Am I being stupid? Or is there a secret way?!
Ta
Graham
Changing fob battery help please
Moderator: RichardW
Graham,
More information please.
Was the keyfob working previously to replacing the battery?
Has it ever worked?
Have you just bought the car with a dead keyfob, and thought replacing the battery would restore functionability?
Chances are the PCB in the fob is faulty - replacement is pricey - £50 odd.
OR you've put the battery in the wrong way round,
OR you've not slid the contact over the face of the battery.
If you have to replace the PCB in the keyfob, ask the dealer to reset the pod in the roof to match the new code that the new PCB will send.
Thregwort, Essex UK.
More information please.
Was the keyfob working previously to replacing the battery?
Has it ever worked?
Have you just bought the car with a dead keyfob, and thought replacing the battery would restore functionability?
Chances are the PCB in the fob is faulty - replacement is pricey - £50 odd.
OR you've put the battery in the wrong way round,
OR you've not slid the contact over the face of the battery.
If you have to replace the PCB in the keyfob, ask the dealer to reset the pod in the roof to match the new code that the new PCB will send.
Thregwort, Essex UK.
Gwoolie replies to....
Was the keyfob working previously to replacing the battery?.... YES
Has it ever worked?.... YES
Have you just bought the car with a dead keyfob, and thought replacing the battery would restore functionability?.....NO
OR you've put the battery in the wrong way round...NO
OR you've not slid the contact over the face of the battery..Double checked the contacts...Ran a soldering iron over the soldered terminals to check for dryness AND check power to PCB and power correct....
Tried to unlock door with key,alarm goes off, key in ignition,turn on and press button...Turn off, remove key press button...nil!
Tried putting key in, turn to acc / batt light only, press button for 10 seconds, off and press again....nil
1998 R Xantia Est SX 2.1TD
Other Fob is fine, but would like the spare key to work as going on holiday, just in case I loose one??!!!
Was the keyfob working previously to replacing the battery?.... YES
Has it ever worked?.... YES
Have you just bought the car with a dead keyfob, and thought replacing the battery would restore functionability?.....NO
OR you've put the battery in the wrong way round...NO
OR you've not slid the contact over the face of the battery..Double checked the contacts...Ran a soldering iron over the soldered terminals to check for dryness AND check power to PCB and power correct....
Tried to unlock door with key,alarm goes off, key in ignition,turn on and press button...Turn off, remove key press button...nil!
Tried putting key in, turn to acc / batt light only, press button for 10 seconds, off and press again....nil
1998 R Xantia Est SX 2.1TD
Other Fob is fine, but would like the spare key to work as going on holiday, just in case I loose one??!!!
-
blueboy2001
- Posts: 423
- Joined: 29 Jan 2003, 04:16
- Location:
- My Cars:
Hang on guys...
gwoolie says this is an ESTATE...
I speak with some experience...
the rear hatch is known to be frisky - i.e. it locks all the time using cental locking, or does it?
What happens is that everything goes "whirr click" and you assume all is well.
In my experience, the estate rear closure is anything but dependable, and gets out-of-sync with the rest of the doors/system/sensors.
[I always have to check that it really HAS locked.
Sometimes it hasn't and I get "CODe" message from radio/stereo, sometimes the alarm goes off (passing car rattles the boot area) so I switch off the audible siren and it drains the battery, because the headlight flasher does its routine a dozen times in the night.
Oh, I've been there.]
The problem can be eased by going one or both of these two routes.
Route 1: open rear tailgate, remove plastic cover on the chassis load area where the tailgate slams down onto - its a black squared-off hook. Socket on the bolts and ease off a tad, just enough to get a good (still water-tight) slam seal.
Oftentimes this will be enough for deadlocks to click into place whereas before maybe they were not totally "clunked".
Route 2: get some torx driver bits and take off the rear door carpet fascia: underneath you will see (having unclipped the two rearlight connectors located underneath the two carpet panels with plastic screw-turn items) a clear plastic weather panel held on with a strip of black gunk. Ease it away and get busy with WD40 over the complex array of connecting rods, plastic levers and rubber boots with dry metal. While you're at it give the outside lock opening a good squirt too.
Now, with the door still open and 'naked',take your remote sender, and give it a press, listening (and looking) to make sure you have a satisfactory, well lubricated bunch of clicks happening. If all is well, movement observed and clicking and whirring sounds as they should be, and manual pulling at the metal rods all seems smooth, put it all back together.
Now give the rear door a good slam down. Press the sender. Listen.
Open rear door and slam it again. Press the sender. Listen
Try a few permutations - hard slam, gentle slam medium slam - and after each slam and sender press, gently put your hand above the number plate and press lightly on the manual opening catch. You can tell straightaway whether you have a good locking situation: the catch will 'give' easily to the lightest touch if it is properly locked, otherwise you will feel resistance.
The point of all this is to ensure that when you instruct central locking to close all five doors and secure the perimeter, it is doing just that. Rather than remembering that the back door is insecure and getting all confused when you open up.
It's not overly intelligent as systems go, but the problem seems to be estate specific and, with the well-documented tendency for water leaks into the rear floor being 'cureable' by moving the floor-mounted catch inwards, it seems that this setting *freaks* the security...maybe the previous owner complained to the dealer and the catch was moved...hey, I don't know the specifics of your vehicle, but you are experiencing nothing that is not known to cit-estaters, well used to 'bailing-out' their under carpet rears after a rain storm!
My advice would be to sort this out whilst summer is here.
Thregwort, Essex UK.
gwoolie says this is an ESTATE...
I speak with some experience...
the rear hatch is known to be frisky - i.e. it locks all the time using cental locking, or does it?
What happens is that everything goes "whirr click" and you assume all is well.
In my experience, the estate rear closure is anything but dependable, and gets out-of-sync with the rest of the doors/system/sensors.
[I always have to check that it really HAS locked.
Sometimes it hasn't and I get "CODe" message from radio/stereo, sometimes the alarm goes off (passing car rattles the boot area) so I switch off the audible siren and it drains the battery, because the headlight flasher does its routine a dozen times in the night.
Oh, I've been there.]
The problem can be eased by going one or both of these two routes.
Route 1: open rear tailgate, remove plastic cover on the chassis load area where the tailgate slams down onto - its a black squared-off hook. Socket on the bolts and ease off a tad, just enough to get a good (still water-tight) slam seal.
Oftentimes this will be enough for deadlocks to click into place whereas before maybe they were not totally "clunked".
Route 2: get some torx driver bits and take off the rear door carpet fascia: underneath you will see (having unclipped the two rearlight connectors located underneath the two carpet panels with plastic screw-turn items) a clear plastic weather panel held on with a strip of black gunk. Ease it away and get busy with WD40 over the complex array of connecting rods, plastic levers and rubber boots with dry metal. While you're at it give the outside lock opening a good squirt too.
Now, with the door still open and 'naked',take your remote sender, and give it a press, listening (and looking) to make sure you have a satisfactory, well lubricated bunch of clicks happening. If all is well, movement observed and clicking and whirring sounds as they should be, and manual pulling at the metal rods all seems smooth, put it all back together.
Now give the rear door a good slam down. Press the sender. Listen.
Open rear door and slam it again. Press the sender. Listen
Try a few permutations - hard slam, gentle slam medium slam - and after each slam and sender press, gently put your hand above the number plate and press lightly on the manual opening catch. You can tell straightaway whether you have a good locking situation: the catch will 'give' easily to the lightest touch if it is properly locked, otherwise you will feel resistance.
The point of all this is to ensure that when you instruct central locking to close all five doors and secure the perimeter, it is doing just that. Rather than remembering that the back door is insecure and getting all confused when you open up.
It's not overly intelligent as systems go, but the problem seems to be estate specific and, with the well-documented tendency for water leaks into the rear floor being 'cureable' by moving the floor-mounted catch inwards, it seems that this setting *freaks* the security...maybe the previous owner complained to the dealer and the catch was moved...hey, I don't know the specifics of your vehicle, but you are experiencing nothing that is not known to cit-estaters, well used to 'bailing-out' their under carpet rears after a rain storm!
My advice would be to sort this out whilst summer is here.
Thregwort, Essex UK.