BLINKING 52 plate CLIO

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citronut
Posts: 10937
Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
x 94

BLINKING 52 plate CLIO

Unread post by citronut »

blinking being the oprative word,

which ever direction the indicator stalk is set it indicates left,

hazards work as they should with and without the ignition on,

i fitted a new OE stalk today and they worked as they should whilst testing them several times, with and without the engine running,

then a bit later on i turned the car round prepairing to deliver it back to the owner, now the indicators are back to square one,

spoke to a renault tecnition on the phone who said it could be the UCM????,

which is around £300 quid pluss programing it to the car and labour
:shock: :shock:


regards malcolm
citronut
Posts: 10937
Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
x 94

Unread post by citronut »

i took this car to a car lectricary guy i use, after a bit of proding and poking he discoverd if he wigled one of the body ECU, he could get the indicators to do what they should for a while,

there are three plug conector going to this ECU a white and a blacy rectangular of each colour, then a smaller square black one that locks into its socket with a swing over lock,


he took the ECU out and attemted to solder all the dry joints he could see, but still had no luck,

i took it back to my workshop had a wigle of the plug found it definetly seems like a bad conection, as i could get it to work then not,


i took the ECU home and had a go at re/soldering the plug pins still no joy,

so gave the car back to the owner and told them they will have to go to renault,

it sounds like this is going to cost around £300 quid for a body ECU+ programing it to the car+ the dealers hourly rate ouch :shock:


regards malcolm
cachaciero
Posts: 1407
Joined: 13 Apr 2009, 07:24
x 9

Unread post by cachaciero »

Difficult to say much without seeing the problem at first hand.

However one thing I have seen occasional is a situation where in the plastic mouldings of the two halves of the connector align the connector shells such that the actual metal contacts don't connect.

Many connectors consist of plastic shells with tubular sockets in one half and a pin in the other, both contacts being inserted into their relevant halves and clipping in by some mechanism or other often just a couple of pressed out tines. Now the quality of much of this kit is just about adequate so if a socket is a slightly larger diameter than it should be or a pin slightly narrower then it is possible that when the two plastic shells mate, a pin (or pins) sits inside the socket without actually making contact.
The other thing that can happen is that a pin or socket securing mechanism doesn't, so that instead of entering the socket the pin or socket gets pushed back and any contact is minimally on the end or not.

I have seen both these scenarios, of course waggle the cable and contact is made intermittently.

If you ever suspect this situation then signals need to be checked both sides of the connector. This doesn't appear to be obviously easy where access to the back of the connector is not possible and indeed without a custom break out lead it isnt.
My technique is to use a fine dressmakers needle to pierce the insulation of each wire in the cable. Of course this assumes that you know what signals / voltages to expect.

cachaciero
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1995 XM 2.1 TD Auto SX died @ 140K
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citronut
Posts: 10937
Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
x 94

Unread post by citronut »

thank cachaciero

i agree and understand all you say,

the plug in question is about an inch by 3/4 of an inch square and has 4 rows of 8 pins, so this makes them very small in diamiter although they are quite long for there size,


the plug is locked into the socket with a clamp that swings over the back of it,

regards malcolm