I received two of these in a box this afternoon. £28 posted the pair meant I wasn't expecting great things - just a "tide me over" set while I sorted the Big Brakes for my car.
However - they seem nicely made. Threads are good (in fact better than some ZF items I've had recently), they came with plastic boot protectors, decent Nylocs and the driving flange is thicker than a ZF/Lemförder balljoint with neater castellations.
So far I'm quite impressed. How they install and shake down will be the next chapter.
Taiwanese Balljoints 364034 / LTB 010221 (405/406/Xantia/C5)
Moderator: RichardW
Mentioning cheap joints i got a pair of rear wishbone bushes for the Activa for £18, i wasnt expecting much either but they didnt deliver, one of them was too big an internal diameter and it would just fall over the spigot and fall off again, it should of course be pressed on to a tight fit 
D
D
XM Prestige PRV6 92
Talbot Express Autotrail Chinook 89
Mitsubishi L200 Trojan 14
Xantia Activa 95, sold (missed)
Service Citroen is awesome, it shows me pictures of all the parts i used to be able to buy............
Talbot Express Autotrail Chinook 89
Mitsubishi L200 Trojan 14
Xantia Activa 95, sold (missed)
Service Citroen is awesome, it shows me pictures of all the parts i used to be able to buy............
-
addo
- Sara Watson's Stalker
- Posts: 7098
- Joined: 19 Aug 2008, 12:38
- Location: NEW South Wales, Australia. I'll show you "Far, far away" ;-)
- My Cars: Peugeot 605
Citroën Berlingo
Alfa 147 - x 93
Ball joint renewal, my style:
1. Drive car in, put hoist arms under jacking points. Raise arms to just touch.
2. With engine running, open bleed screw on regulator and allow all stored pressure to null.
3. Raise car to working height and remove wheels with cordless Snap-On rattle gun.
4. Unbolt lower droplink nuts with same rattle gun, and also balljoint nuts.
5. With depressurised suspension, shock balljoint taper loose and push hub up/out/forward of lower arm.
6. Wiggle/ease off heatshields and prise away old rubber balljoint boots.
7. Fit Sealey tool to balljoint and rattle off with 1 3/8" socket, not worrying about unstaking unless fully obstructing rotation.
8. Fit Sealey tool to new balljoint, place a dab of Loctite on new balljoint threads, screw in by hand the first few turns then rattle home. Stake as previously.
9. Refit heatshield, stake as best possible, add coupla dabs of RTV to help it stay quiet.
10. Push hub up again and wangle into lower arm, taking care to align droplink at same time. Rattle up nuts for both pieces.
11. Visual check of surrounding parts for safety's sake, then refit wheels.
12. Lower car, start motor and close off regulator bleed screw. As it lifts, disengage the hoist arms.
13. Drive out and road test.
Elapsed time? A casual 45 minutes.
1. Drive car in, put hoist arms under jacking points. Raise arms to just touch.
2. With engine running, open bleed screw on regulator and allow all stored pressure to null.
3. Raise car to working height and remove wheels with cordless Snap-On rattle gun.
4. Unbolt lower droplink nuts with same rattle gun, and also balljoint nuts.
5. With depressurised suspension, shock balljoint taper loose and push hub up/out/forward of lower arm.
6. Wiggle/ease off heatshields and prise away old rubber balljoint boots.
7. Fit Sealey tool to balljoint and rattle off with 1 3/8" socket, not worrying about unstaking unless fully obstructing rotation.
8. Fit Sealey tool to new balljoint, place a dab of Loctite on new balljoint threads, screw in by hand the first few turns then rattle home. Stake as previously.
9. Refit heatshield, stake as best possible, add coupla dabs of RTV to help it stay quiet.
10. Push hub up again and wangle into lower arm, taking care to align droplink at same time. Rattle up nuts for both pieces.
11. Visual check of surrounding parts for safety's sake, then refit wheels.
12. Lower car, start motor and close off regulator bleed screw. As it lifts, disengage the hoist arms.
13. Drive out and road test.
Elapsed time? A casual 45 minutes.