Xantia II - Radiator fan motor removal

VertVega · Unread post by **VertVega** » 18 May 2011, 16:52

Here is a pic story of radiator fan removal without removing the bumper.

I have done this a couple of times and this time I decided to take time
and see how long does it actually take

Took pic in the beginning of the job and also during different phases:

Important !: Fan blade screw has left hand threads. i.e. screw driver clockwise to unscrew.
Tip: While pushing the screw driver, I turn the blades to anticlockwise to unscrew, as seen in pic below.

There's a very small gap and all three hex-nuts removal job is mostly done by using finger tips

Here are the tools used (seen on top left of the pic):
1. magnet tool 'antenna' (most probably the nuts will fall between fan frame and air-con condenser)
2. modified 10 mm spanner
3. cross head screw driver

and finally test run before packing it all

Tip: If you have air condition, switch it on which will make both fan motors run even if the engine is cold.

Tool modification can be done like this:

DickieG · Unread post by **DickieG** » 18 May 2011, 19:12

Looking at those black gloves I'm wondering whether the 'Milk Tray Man' did the job for you

VertVega · Unread post by **VertVega** » 18 May 2011, 19:24

That would have been a good help from Milk Tray Man

The gloves were to keep the camera clean

and I had to take off glove before touching the camera.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 18 May 2011, 21:30

VertVega, that's an excellent guide and thanks ever so for posting it.

All this also applies to the S1 Xantia although space is far less generous. There is just room to do it without taking the bumper off.

VertVega · Unread post by **VertVega** » 22 May 2011, 21:38

CitroJim wrote:... All this also applies to the S1 Xantia ...

Thanks for your comment and also good to know that it applies to S1 Xantia

I decided to add these pics here as well, since they give an idea how it looks behind the fan motor frame.
I have written about this previously, how I happened to got this complete set from a scrapcar.
Usually lowest hex nuts are most rusty ones

as 'seen' (?) in pic:

close up, 10 mm hex nut

hex nut 'nest' depth. My modified tool makes a full (360 deg) turn around this.

--------------------------------------
Edit: 4.6.2011 Some more pics ...

Here's how it looks when a brush is used to its minimum possible length.
Fortunately mechanical stopper/limit prevents further push by the spring.

John Plum · Unread post by **John Plum** » 27 Jul 2014, 07:46

I followed this guide to remove a motor which only starts if I bang it.
See my spanner, which I modified continuously until it worked for all three nuts: the bottom one had less clearance, due to alignment of the cooler behind.

See the rust on this fan motor:

I suppose you ground off the metal lugs to split the casing, and that the brushes are replaceable. Scrap xantias are getting hard to find. However, I better test the connections first after cleaning them up, because that's where may problem may lie, rather than brushes... See here:

Cheers,
John

Sent from a mobile transmitter.

John Plum · Unread post by **John Plum** » 27 Jul 2014, 09:00

Yep, In my case the contacts at the plug to loom was responsible for fan failure. It's now spinning up with air con on. Can't tell you the condition of the brushes in this one, the cases are sealed with metal crimps. I'm putting it back like this - here's hoping…but I'll look out for a spare to have ready (got one?

). The rust has gone through the casing, and I had to shake rust out the body through a rust hole.
The inter-cooler radiator fins just behind this fan (passenger side) are well flaky..perhaps someone spilled something there and didn't clean it up.
John

John Plum · Unread post by **John Plum** » 28 Jul 2014, 12:27

A40 west to M25 junction traffic standstill. Moving about 4 mile an hour, if that. Blocked for 5 miles.
If fan wasn't fixed yesterday I would have had it.

Here's my gauge - staying nice and cool.

Even have slight aircon coolness. I'll get a recharge now.

Sent from a mobile transmitter.

evilclive · Unread post by **evilclive** » 23 Apr 2016, 18:16

My X reg HDi had E6 Torx bolts rather than the 10mm nut. A T30 bolt with some nuts locked onto it made a suitable tool for removing the bolts, if tedious - turn that with a 10mm flat spanner.

The replacement from the W reg HDi had the 10mm nuts. A similar spanner to that described took care of the top two, but didn't fit in the bottom one. To do that I used a tubular (monobloc?) 10mm spanner, sawn off. I might not have sawn it quite as short as I did - may be worth sawing then filing till it fits.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Box-spanner-w ... SwQjNW-~c3

I turned the short section sitting on the nut with a normal flat 13mm spanner.

(having done all that it looks like the problem is still electrical, but I've got one failed thing out of the way

)

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 25 Apr 2016, 12:04

evilclive wrote:My X reg HDi had E6 Torx bolts rather than the 10mm nut.

That's useful to know... Amazing the little differences in the very last Xantias!

white exec · Unread post by **white exec** » 25 Apr 2016, 14:26

Switching on the AC in standstill traffic seems a bit counter-intuitive, but the additional heat produced by it is more than compensated for by the fans running at low speed, and keeping the temp gauge down - and reducing the baking temperatures in the engine bay.

On an old BX19RD, we had twin fans, in the usual series-parallel 3-relay arrangement. We also fitted a dash switch, which allowed normal automatic operation, or could he used to manually turn the fans on to either low or high speed. Great for towing up the odd Alp! XUD heads need looking after.

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